[thevaliantkid]

I got a 1969 Glaspar TriHail in Mint Condition With new Floors and Interior With A Supossable Rebuilt 1972 Evinrude 115 With Selectric Electric Shift?????Well after powering up the motor and adjusting the carbs we powered the unit down and now it wont sart or turn over and when it does turn over it has no spark is there a safety swiych i can check????After further inspection have found 2 drierotted wires on the CDI box or ignition power pack module how can i find the problem and i need to ID this motor so I can get the right power pack unit if i can find 1??????Also seems to be stuck inbetween gears and wont shift even when engine is cranking over,does there need to be oil in the lower unit for it to work as i emptied it to replace the gasket as it was bad?????There are no markings on the motor except this on 1 freeze plug 115083D E05726 I Know You Guys Can Help Me Get This Thing Up And running Again As It Sounded Great When We Had Her Up And Running Thanks John In Northern R.I. any info can Also Be Sent to Me Directly @ thevaliantkid@aol.com Thanks Again Everyone

[ezeke]

115083 is a 115hp 1970 model number.

You are going to need an OMC model-specific service manual or a scrap metal dealer - your choice.

Try copying this to your browser without the quotation marks:

"http://www.marineengine.com/parts/part_details.php?pnum=KCMITEM_4691&ptype=Service+M anual&Engine=&Model=115083"

[mikesea]

Its been a long time since I messed with an engine with elec.shift. But I do know the powerpack in that engine is the brain.When the power pack fails. Almost anything can happen. From only getting forward,to no spark,partial spark etc. I noticed you have another post. Do everyone a favor,stay with one.Less confusion for all.Perhaps its possible to locate a powerpack on ebay or in a outboard salvage yard. But,you dont want to keep blowing them. Maybe someone will come along and suggest if its possible to convert to a non elec gearcase and put a 80's era electrical component on your eng.Reason for the suggestion is,your antiquated system went out around mid to late 70's and I'm sure the electronic lower and electrical parts are getting non existent. You say the eng was redone so hopefully its possible. Do you have trim and tilt,you said you powered it down.Its either an add on or wired seperate if it worke and nothing else??If conversion is possible,ypou might want to find a blown 80's model if it will accept your powerhead,easier than moving all the otherstuff around???Wish I had more,but I like to learn too,so post your results. thanks

[Joe Reeves]

That lower unit is not a "Selectric" shift unit. It is a "hydro Electric Shift" unit which is a completely different animal, as follows.

(Hydro Electric Shift)
(J. Reeves)

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Preminum Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).
With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.

[F_R]

The ignition black box is called a "Pulse Pack" and does not have a dang thing to do with the shift. Except they are both powered by the battery through the ignition switch, etc.

Don't be messing with that electrical / ignition system unless you know what you are doing. You blow that pulse pac and it's going to cost you. You really, really need a manual.