my 2002 15 Hp mercury doesn't stop anymore by switching of the key on the remote control. even when the the deadmens key is switched on. I've an wiring diagram from a same type of mariner engine but the colors of the wiring does not compare with my engine.
My wiring diagram is for midrange 2 cy but the process should be the same.
The ignition switch wire (for this purpose) pigtails into the rear of the emergy stop switch and then one wire goes to the engine wiring harness. Hence they are in parallel and either will (can) supply ground to this wire going to the engine. The wire color for this is blk-yel.....in my book.
Once inside the engine it goes to the rpm limiter and to each of the trigger modules, all in parallel. So there is only one wire to cause the problem; the wire from the remote switches to the innerds of the engine.
If yours is not working I'd suspect a problem in the connector between engine and remote unless you had a rat eat up your wiring harness or some chafing cut through this wire.
So this tells me that you can supply a ground to this wire (going to each trigger module) and shut down your spark with either of the switches, or the rpm limiter...if you have one. If not the wire will just pigtail out and go to the trigger modules.
The rpm limiter is drawn as a square (probably epoxy) device with two mounting screws. It has 4 wires connected, one being black to ground. As stated, my wiring from the remote is black-yellow....note the black involved in the color code.
I'm going to bet that one of the other wires has a black stripe or is colored with a black stripe on it and that will be your wire from the remote harness. The same color wire will go to each spark plug firing (trigger) module.
Best I can do. I assume 4 strokes have separate firing devices, not a central coil and distributor like in the old days.
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I just realized that the way you can tell for sure is to look at the color code of the wires leaving the engine. Only one of them will carry the same marking as a wire to each of your trigger modules. That's your wire.
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Thinking more, you could have lost your ground in the remote. So, once you locate this wire I have been talking about, open it up somewhere (trigger module is a great place) and look from the engine back to the control box. Connect an ohmmeter between that wire and the engine block (ground). Turning off the ignition key, or flipping the kill switch should give you a "short" indication. If not you know where to start looking for the open circuit.
My wiring diagram is for midrange 2 cy but the process should be the same.
The ignition switch wire (for this purpose) pigtails into the rear of the emergy stop switch and then one wire goes to the engine wiring harness. Hence they are in parallel and either will (can) supply ground to this wire going to the engine. The wire color for this is blk-yel.....in my book.
Once inside the engine it goes to the rpm limiter and to each of the trigger modules, all in parallel. So there is only one wire to cause the problem; the wire from the remote switches to the innerds of the engine.
If yours is not working I'd suspect a problem in the connector between engine and remote unless you had a rat eat up your wiring harness or some chafing cut through this wire.
So this tells me that you can supply a ground to this wire (going to each trigger module) and shut down your spark with either of the switches, or the rpm limiter...if you have one. If not the wire will just pigtail out and go to the trigger modules.
The rpm limiter is drawn as a square (probably epoxy) device with two mounting screws. It has 4 wires connected, one being black to ground. As stated, my wiring from the remote is black-yellow....note the black involved in the color code.
I'm going to bet that one of the other wires has a black stripe or is colored with a black stripe on it and that will be your wire from the remote harness. The same color wire will go to each spark plug firing (trigger) module.
Best I can do. I assume 4 strokes have separate firing devices, not a central coil and distributor like in the old days.
---------------
I just realized that the way you can tell for sure is to look at the color code of the wires leaving the engine. Only one of them will carry the same marking as a wire to each of your trigger modules. That's your wire.
-------------
Thinking more, you could have lost your ground in the remote. So, once you locate this wire I have been talking about, open it up somewhere (trigger module is a great place) and look from the engine back to the control box. Connect an ohmmeter between that wire and the engine block (ground). Turning off the ignition key, or flipping the kill switch should give you a "short" indication. If not you know where to start looking for the open circuit.
Mark
Thks mark for your explonation this weekend i'am going to check the wiring
I almost made it to Holland while in the Air Force. We had a plane down there and went to get it but had engine trouble ourselves and had to turn back. I was due to rotate back to the states in a couple of days and they didn't want to chance me getting stuck there too.
The aircraft were the old C-54 (Douglas DC-4) 4 engine cargo aircraft, some of which participated in the Berlin Airlift. d
One of my aspirations while there was to tour the Heineken's Beer Factory. 8)
15 HP mercury 4 stroke won't stop
Linear Mode
