[Bobby Autry]

Hello everyone,

I have a question. My starter is gradually slowing down when I start the motor. What I mean is that when I first start it it is fast then gradually slows down and when I release the key the starter pinion gear remains in the flywheel so I have to move the flywheel alittle to release the starter pinion gear. This is with the motor cold and haven't run at all. What I have down so far is removed the battery cable and cut off the terminal ends back to were there is fresh cable and put brand new automotive type terminal ends and hooked back up to the battery tightly, then I took the battery out and got it load tested and charged it was o.k. but 69% charged at the beginning of the load test. The load test passed and it is fully charged up to 12.56 volts. I double checked and made sure that the ends weren't accidently crossed by accident on the battery which they are not and everything is tight. The solenoid is brand new also. The only thing I can think off is the starter is going bad but want to ask you guys the experts what you think. I redid the check after the battery was laod tested and still does the same thing.

[hookedonjc]

Mine done the same thing I Pulled her apart and cleaned the commutator ( its on the bottom where the brushes are) with a piece of fine sandpapper and compressed air and checked the brushes and magnets . A manual shows how to do this in detail. Mine had a build up on the commutator. After I cleaned it Up it works great. Be carefull their are some springs holding the brushes in. and their is a trick to getting it back together. The book shows a flat putty knife with a slot in it to hold down the brushes while you line it all back up.
I would give it a try before buying a new one . And if its the brushes worn out you should be able to just get a brush kit . Hope this works for you.

Dont Ever Give Up

[jtexas]

yup, take 'er apart clean 'er up...find or scratch a reference mark so you can get the cap & housing oriented correctly...careful disassembling those brushes are spring loaded...don't use solvent on the armature...the 2-brush starter is a little different let us know if you need help with it...bench test with a pair of jumper cables (clamp it down good). The manual should have your brush wear tolerances.

if you wanted to rule out bad cable/connections first, you could measure voltage from the starter post to the engine block with starter engaged...should get at least 12V or very close to battery voltage. But sounds like you already addressed that.

"He who work on outboard without manual has fool for mechanic."

[Bobby Autry]

Hello everyone,

Well I took hookedonjc and Jtexas advice and took my starter motor apart and this is what I found #1 on the one magnet surrounding the armature on the brush cap side was cracked enough that the piece of magnet (The size of the end of my fore finger approximately) fell out as I pulled the bottom cap containing the brushes off. #2 the end cap contianing the 4 brushes was black with powdery substance and smelled really burned smelling. So I think I did the right thing to buy a new starter, rebuilding would have cost me $100.00 anyway so I found a brand new one on Ebay for $92.00 plus 15.00 for shipping cost for a total of $107.00 with a 2 year warranty for any defects that was caused by the starter. What do you guys think?

[ezeke]

I think that is a very fair price. The fellows that do auto starters will rebuild them for less, but you don't usually get a nice new drive assembly from them or when you do it yourself.

[jtexas]

broke field magnets I thought were beyond repair...great price on the new one though!

[hookedonjc]

Yeap new one is a sure fix want let you down when you need it. I have run one with a piece of the magnet missing works fine you cant try to put the broken piece back because it changes the poles it will resist going back. Clean her up maybe new brushes and you got you a spare. Dont throw it away.

Dont Ever Give Up