67 Evinrude Selectric - where to buy parts? not starting

grease · #1 July 7th, 2006, 10:57 PM

I have a 1967 Evinrude 40hp selectric and have a couple questions:

1. Where can I buy parts for it?
I have been to two local boats shops and both said they do not want to deal with selectric and said they do not make the parts anymore. Is that true?

2. I ask because the boat is not starting. If i jump a battery cable to starter it starts right up and purrs like a kitten..runs great!
Problem is it will not start via the selectric controls. shifting is tough.
I recently changed the lower gear oil with Type C. Tested ignition and think it is ok.
Bought a manual but it is not helpful as it covers 6 different models and does not tell you when a part is specific to a particular motor.

Are there any aftermarket makers for the control switch or the solenoids?

Frustrated. Any suggestions to troubleshoot?

tashasdaddy · #2 July 8th, 2006, 03:31 AM

being a 67, you probably have some wiring insulation going bad, and conections. check the big red plug for corrosion on the contacts. you can try maxrules.com , laingsoutboards.com, tcoutboards.com

the # 1 shop here in jax, fl will not even work on the electric shift engines ther are a few here that know these engines.

Joe Reeves · #3 July 8th, 2006, 11:48 AM

What parts are you looking for?

grease · #4 July 8th, 2006, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe

What parts are you looking for?

How about the shifter switch that is up front. Or the solenoids in the lower unit? Just have not found anything online yet. Will check out sites mentioned above. Thanks.

Learning as I go here. but once you learn how it all works, does not seem that bad .

Joe Reeves · #5 July 8th, 2006, 08:53 PM

The 1967 electric shift models do not have solenoids in the lower unit. They have electromagnetic coils which activate (draw) tension springs over/on hubs attached to the propshaft. You should have no problem finding those various components. I still have a few of them.

The shift switch, whether it is a Johnson toggle type switch or a Evinrude push button switch, now that may harded to locate.

grease · #6 July 8th, 2006, 10:07 PM

on the shift switch..there are no homemade fixes or thirdparty solutions?

I pulled mine apart (and broke it) and looks very primitive. Seems like you could make your own using a relay and toggle button.

The shift switch, whether it is a Johnson toggle type switch or a Evinrude push button switch, now that may harded to locate.[/quote]

itstippy · #7 July 8th, 2006, 10:34 PM

You can rig a three way toggle on the dash to handle shifting. Many have. HOWEVER! It is very easy then to accidently shift from forward to reverse in an instant, stripping/breaking the tension-spring-and-hub arrangement in the lower unit that Joe Reeves described. That is BAD NEWS because they are about the most frustrating thing in the world to work on.
The local Marinas that won't work on Selectrics will sometimes get one in on trade when they sell someone a new boat (because they can't service the poor guy's existing boat). They'll gladly sell you the controller. EBay also has Selectric (Evinrude)/Selectamatic (Johnson) controllers pretty often. Either will work for your application. Make sure the seller guarantees it functions. Make sure it's for a pre-1968 model. The later ones look the same but they funtion differently because they are for the post '68 Hydroelectric lowers. I'd post some links I've saved to terrific discussions on the OMC electric shifts, but they've changed the iBoats forums board and now my links library don't work. Aaargh!

tashasdaddy · #8 July 9th, 2006, 10:10 AM

ebay, it's one of my major sources.

mkpj1 · #9 July 11th, 2006, 02:14 PM

Joe R.

I also have a 67 Lark selectric shift that I purchased with out reverse. I have checked the upper knife blades and wires and reverse has 12 volts so I am assuming it is either the coil or the spring. The previous owner stated he reversed into some old fishing line and locked up the prop and then never had reverse again. I have just been using a trolling motor because I thought it was out of my leauge to tackle that gear case withut the proper tools. Is that so? I have rebuilt auto motors so I can turn a wrench but the tolerances look tight and I don't have the tools. Can you give me your thoughts?

Thanks in advance,
Ken

itstippy · #10 July 11th, 2006, 09:50 PM

It sounds like the prior owner broke the spring (best case scenario) or stripped the hub or both. You can open it up and fix it without special tools. Surprisingly, Seloc has a good chapter on the electric shifts. You will need a big circlip ring pliers. You also need a bottle of asprin and a bottle of sedatives. By "fix" I mean replace the bad parts - there is no way to rejuvenate them after they're stripped, even if they aren't actually broken. Folks have put the springs into a piece of pipe and "roughed" them in an effort to get the "grip" back - no use. They've "roughed" the hub in an effort to get the "grip" back - no use. Nothing works but replacing.
I don't recommend messing with it. Parts are scarce and cost big bucks. Run it the way it is and watch eBay for a good, guaranteed servicable lower unit. When you find one just swap out the whole thing and keep your current one for a spare. The aggravation involved in messing with the things is not worth it just to get reverse back. Joe Reeves & DHPMarine & Dhadley & Paul Moir & some others may feel differently, but they are old pros and are apparently unfazed by working on something designed by the Devil himself.
I fixed mine to save money. I've done two of them. I scavanged up parts units from here and there and pieced together a couple good working lowers. I've done my last. If I ever need another electric shift lower unit I will get a part-time job roofing silos in Georgia in the Summer until I have enough money to buy a working unit on eBay or to get someone like the "old pro's" to fix it for me. Their time would be worth about $500 an hour on a job like that, I figure. I will never open up another one of those breach-loading nightmares again. My 2 cents.

grease · #11 July 17th, 2006, 10:52 PM

Finally got the boat started by replacing the starter solenoid. I bought a generic one at auto parts store..hope that is ok. just says 12 volts..is amperage an issue?

I also installed an on/off switch to act as my forward neutral. Works ok and got it out on the water last weekend, but now i more problems, which i posted in a new post.

sucks spending your summer grounded on land!