Morse control shifting question on Evinrude

kitebuz · #1 June 29th, 2006, 01:13 PM

I am trying to figure out why my shifter is stiff from forward to neutral.

I installed a new MT3 Morse control binnacle to use w/ my twin '89 Evinrude V4120's. One engine is perfect. The other is stiff to shift from forward to neutral. It is smooth going into forward or reverse from neutral. It is also smooth shifting in and out of gear w/ the engine not running (while rotating the prop).

Any ideas why this would be? I have gone thru cable alignment several times, and pretty sure it is as well alligned as the other engine. Could it be related to rpm's?? I'm scratching my head on this one. It gets very stiff as you bring it from the forward detent to neutral, and alot of times once it does shift, it goes straight into reverse, and I have to bump it forward again into neutral.

Any ideas?

tashasdaddy · #2 June 29th, 2006, 02:34 PM

sound like something is binding somewhere. did it do this before the change? but it shift smoothly when the engine is off. very strange. have you tried disconnecting the shift at the engine and trying it at the engine while running. this could isolate between the engine and cable.

kitebuz · #3 June 29th, 2006, 03:52 PM

Yeh, I thought maybe the trim/tilt cables to the switch on the cowling might be getting in the way of the shift rod, but no.

I have not tried disconnecting it and shifting at the engine while running. This would isolate the issue, and will try.

It does feel like something is binding, but only while the engine is running and going from forward to neutral - totaly smooth when the engine is off. :/

Dhadley · #4 June 29th, 2006, 04:01 PM

I'd bet the motor that's hard to shift out of gear is idling higher than the one that shifts out of gear easily. There's acouple of other things but that's the most logical (and easiest to fix).

kitebuz · #5 June 29th, 2006, 04:15 PM

Yes, it tends to. I say that b/c while in gear at the forward detent, they idle at the same rpm (@ 800). The difference comes when the port engine (harder shifting) shifts into neutral - rpm's go to @ 1.8k before settling back down to @ 1-1.2k in neutral.

Both engines idle up around 1.4k at startup, then settle down to @ 1-1.2k in neutral.

So, what's next? I am slightly confused in the reading I have done in that I have not read about a simple idle adjustment - just idle timing. Yet, on the engine, there are the two bolts that control the lever arm (where the throttle control cable attaches) start and stop positions.

What would cause the jump in rpms when going into neutral?

Stumedic · #6 June 29th, 2006, 08:54 PM

I just raised the idle on my 175 Johnson with a morse control and now I have a rough time selecting neutral-almost have to force it. I'd like to find the proper adjustment technique for throttle/timing/shifter myself. All I did was raise the idle about 100 rpm.

Dhadley · #7 June 29th, 2006, 09:40 PM

Because of the backcut on the engagement lugs on the clutch dog and gears the motor has to idle at about 700 in gear. Out of gear, in the water, it'll be about 850 - no more than 900. Even at 900 it'll be hard to shift out of gear.

If it's idleing at 1000-1200 in the water, it'll be super hard to shift out of gear. You'll end up breaking something in the control box.

Are these 140's true outboards or Sea Drives?

Dhadley · #8 June 30th, 2006, 10:44 AM

Oh, as for the high idle -- that's Quick Start. When you first start them they will idle a bit higher then calm down as they warm up. Don't shift them while it's in Quick Start.

They should idle at about 900 in neutral and in the water. Out of the water they'll idle a bit higher due to no backpressure.

kitebuz · #9 June 30th, 2006, 01:05 PM

This makes sense - I think my idle is too high.

My 1989 120 hp engine models are E120TXCE (true outboards - pics below).

I have the Seloc manual for that year, and an OMC service manual (p/n 508147) dated 1991 that says it is for model #: E120TXEN. Is this applicable to my engines for the link&synch?

I was hoping it would be a simple matter of adjusting an idle screw - but does not seem to be the case. More like a 6 step process (according to the sm):
1) Timing Pointer
2) Throttle Plat Sync
3) Cam Pick-up Point
4) Wide Open Throttle Stop
5) Maximum Spark Advance
6) Idle Timing

I do have a few questions on the process:

- For the timing pointer, do I need the OMC Piston Stop tool (p/n 384887), or can these be had at Autozone type places - or is there another trick w/out using one?

- Do I need to remove the air silencer cover to do the Throttle Plate Sync

- What is a test prop? The manual says I need one to do the maximum spark advance at 4500 & 5k rpm. Do I need to get one, or is there another trick to this?

Thanks - I am enjoying learning about my engines, and appreciate the advice.

Here's my rig:

tashasdaddy · #10 June 30th, 2006, 01:44 PM

nice ride. i don't know about the manual. hopefully a mech will chime in.

kitebuz · #11 July 5th, 2006, 01:49 PM

dh - yes, the smoother shifting one is idling right at 900 rpm in neutral. The other one is @ 1100. Do I need to do the entire link & sync procedure, or is there a quick way to adjust idle?

Thanks, TashasD.

Dhadley · #12 July 5th, 2006, 02:40 PM

You probably need to do the whole thing from the beginning. In the end it'll be easier.

kitebuz · #13 July 6th, 2006, 02:51 PM

DH - roger that.

In preparing to do it, can you answer these questions for me:

- For the timing pointer, do I need the OMC Piston Stop tool (p/n 384887), or can these be had at Autozone type places - or is there another trick w/out using one?

- Do I need to remove the air silencer cover to do the Throttle Plate Sync

- What is a test prop? The manual says I need one to do the maximum spark advance at 4500 & 5k rpm. Do I need to get one, or is there another trick to this?

Thanks.

Dhadley · #14 July 6th, 2006, 03:41 PM

The pointer can be set several ways. The objective is to make sure that the pointer is on 0 (on the flywheel grid) when the #1 & #2 piston are at top dead center.

Yes, the cover has to be off to make sure the plates are seated. If it's not spitting back at idle, the plates are seated already. Do not run the motor under a load with the air box cover off. You'll most likely get to learn about piston changing if you do.

You don't need a test whell, although they're nice. You can back the boat down the ramp and run it on the trailer to chech WOT timing.

MarkV_Deep6 · #15 July 6th, 2006, 04:46 PM

I'm Jealous.... Nice rig!!!!

kitebuz · #16 July 10th, 2006, 02:00 PM

DH - thanks for your reply. I guess I can eyeball (or feeler guage) the TDC for # 1&2, and will go to the ramp for wot timing.

What do you consider under load - running in gear, or higher rpm?

Thanks, Mark - I'm really happy w/ it.

ran the engines for 20 mins Sat night @ 5200rpm (trying to get back b4 dark), and they never missed a beat.

kitebuz · #17 July 31st, 2006, 01:44 PM

Progress: I got part of the S&L done, just not the timing. I followed the service guide steps 1-4 as listed above. Had trouble with the timing light, so had to stop there.

Ran the boat, and the rpms were already much better. Gear shifts very smoothly now, w/ a warm idle in neutral @ 800 rpms & 750 rpm in gear.

Questions:
How long should the higher "Quickstart" rpms stay up? It was idling higher (1.2k) until it got up to temp (@ 5 min), then dropped rpms down to 8k.

Timing:
For the Max spark advance, the manual says to run the engine (warm) at 4500-5000 rpm. It did not state whether this was in neutral or in gear (seems awfully high rpm in neutral). Is it ok to run the engine at this high of an RPM in neutral?