Fencing Question - Project 3!

Ok, so in the last couple weeks I've sought advice about a carb and painting a truck. How about spring project #3 that is currently in progress and must be finished before I start painting the truck. <br /><br />I'm building a 6' wooden privancy fence around my back yard. As part of the fence, I need to put in a 20' gate (2x10' sections). I'm looking for suggestions on making one that will last a few years. Placing a moveable support in the center when it is closed is acceptible. <br /><br />Long story on needing a gate that big, but I'm putting in a new 20' carport for my boats and it must be placed close to the fence for numerous reasons. If I built a regulat 12' gate, it would be impossible to get my boats in easily.<br /><br />Ideas so far - <br />1. wooden frame using cables for cross braces instead of wood<br />2. Sheet metal cattle gates with pickets screded to them to look like regular fence<br /><br />10' is a long way out there from a post.... But I don't have much choice. I would do a sliding gate, but that doesn't seem very feasible either.

Re: Fencing Question - Project 3!

wood will be aweful heavy for that span...<br />u could add a wheel under each side for support<br />though.

Re: Fencing Question - Project 3!

Jason, 2) 10' sections is ok, The cable brace is good to. There's also rolling gates, however, you need the room to roll open the gate. The idea of a metal cattle gate w/pickets will work.<br />The idea I have and have used;<br />Typical chainlink gate tube size is 1-3/8" O.D.<br />This can be picked up everywhere and is cheap and easy to work with, you can even get the hardware, latches, hindges, and on and on and on.<br />you can weld it with and arc welder but I use a cheap 110 volt wire feed. It's all galvanized so it won't rust, just touch up the welds w/galv. paint. once you make the frame/s. you can cover it with what you like. my nieghbor has "nursery netting" on his, (it comes in alot of colors). The one I built for my sister in law has pickets screwed in, like you mentioned. These pickets were purchased then 'scroll sawn' by her, with her own design, and then SHE painted them. This gate has a 7' plus center section and tapers to 6' at the ends, looks like a hump, and it turned out well. remember to space the pickets 1/8" apart, as they swell when they get wet. One more thing, the chain link manufactures use and sell a galvinized 3/8" threaded rod and special clamps that is used as a diagonal brace. It is accecptable to use # 10 or #12 wire (doubled) and "twist" it in the middle, to tighten., or use a turn buckle. have fun, fab this thing yourself, build it on sawhorses with a couple of 2x4" streached across them. The tubing can be cut w/a skill saw and carborandum blade, and the fenceing supply place can tell you how much to allow for the latch and hindges. ....sl

Re: Fencing Question - Project 3!

I would think two ten foot sliding sections [like a barn door]. Use a wheel on each section that would bear the weight when you open or close.Then a removable center post to fasten to.You said sliding wouldn't be feasible . I take it you don't have 10 feet on either side for the slider.Then how about a combination of slider and swing?

Re: Fencing Question - Project 3!

This is how I would do it.

Re: Fencing Question - Project 3!

u r one artistic mutha OMC! LOL<br /><br />think they have gates that accept wheels already<br />and the parts to make it work.<br />at least they do here at farmers supply...<br />anyways, omc is right. support with wheels, not<br />cables.<br /><br />snows almost gone up here omc and the honkers are<br />starting to fly over

Re: Fencing Question - Project 3!

The wheel works well......until you get snow, mud, or tall grass. Also the top starts to sag and sway. <br />What I havew done with success is, if the gate is not used several times a day, dig a post hole directly where the two gates meet in the middle. Plant a peice of pipe a little larger than the fence post. Put this pipe flush with the ground or slightly below. When the gate is closed put your fence post in the hole, and close the gates to meet the post. Put a hook or shelf protruding from this post to the gates can rest on it to keep weight off of the hinges. Make a cover for the pipe when the post is not in it. <br />Big problem with this is every few years you might have to clean out the pipe as dirt will slowly fill in. <br />Other option, the gate posts on the hinge side of the gate should be solid either way you build. Behind these posts about 4 or 5 feet set another wooden fence post. Place a pipe or another post between the two posts to hold the hinge post in place. OR set a cable and bury a dead man or a weight to hold the hinge post straight, similar to guide wires on electric lines.<br />Option 3, set the hinge posts like above (anchored) but make them about 4 feet taller than the gate. Run a cable from the top to the end of the gates to support the end of the gate as it swings. <br />Main thing is not to let all of the gate weight hang on the hinges solely. Usually if the gate post is big enough and set solid and nobody hangs or climbs on the end of the gate, the gate will last for years. I have put in hundreds of large heavy gates in feedlots that are still hanging.

Re: Fencing Question - Project 3!

OMC, have you had any offers as a draftsman? <br />I got pages and pages of similar stuff I've done to overcome problems. Gets the job done, and can probably sell for wall art if you advertise it right on ebay.

Re: Fencing Question - Project 3!

One thing to consider with a gate that wide is the strength of the post and how well it is anchored.<br />10 feet is not an overlarge size for a farm style gate in either metal or wood.

Re: Fencing Question - Project 3!

Excellent ideas and suggestions. Some I definetly hadn't thought much about, esp. Stebe n Carol's homemade gate as it would give me a chance to use the new welder I bought last year and havn't had a chance to use yet.<br /><br />I like the idea of wheels, but I believe the ground is too uneven without major digging. I like DD's pipe idea too. As the gate will be used mayebe once every week or two, I don't mind the slight hassle factor of the drop-in piece.<br /><br />As an additional detail, here's another problem - post strength. I bought 2 12' 4x6 treated timbers with the intention of sinking them 30-36" (frostline not an issue in TN). Only one snag.. ROCK. on one post, I was able to go 24". on the other....16". On the 16" hole, I dug it out over 1' square and filled the entire hole, but still not really happy with it. Since there is 10' of post sticking up, I'm going to get a couple 12' 4x4 posts and build a gable over the gate. That should tile the posts together and equalize the weight while the gates are closed. The gate posts will also be tide to the posts next to them, but for the post that is only 16", its tie-post only came out to about 8".<br /><br />I'm starting to really warm up to the cattle gate idea.

Re: Fencing Question - Project 3!

BTW, nice drawing OMC. I have a ton of those types myself and I used to do drafting for a living. Sometimes ya just gotta scetch it out!

Re: Fencing Question - Project 3!

10' swinging each side will need room to clear any obstructions and the land will need to be flat or sloping away.<br />Perhaps the sliding gate would be better.<br />Ross

Re: Fencing Question - Project 3!

Thanks, I like to doodle and find it much easier then using words. As a kid and young adult I loved to draw and started to get fairly good at it. I should have stayed with it. here is one of the last freehand drawings I did back in '85. '46 Chevy