More oil questions

Put some lucas oil treatment into my 94 bronco with at 351. The stuff was as thick as molassis. It is designed to replace one of the six quarts of oil in the engine. Anyone have any experience with this stuff? It is suppose to help with leaks. The only leak I have is in the oil pan due to a porous casting. <br /><br />Also the oil pan can be replaced but you have to remove the engine to do it. Would PC weld have any affect on slowing the drip? I really don't want to spend 7-900 bucks to replace this pain in the neck. Might have to though.<br />Truck has 120K

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Pointer, I have used a gas tank sealer(any auto parts store should have it) that looks like gray tootsie rools You just work it in your hands until it gets soft and smear it on. On my s-10 I just wiped off as much gas as I could and quickly stuck on this glob of goo and smoothed it out. I sold the truck 2 years later and it still wasn't leaking.I would think it would also work on your oil pan.

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OMC,<br /><br />Thanks I will take a run at it this weekend and post back how it worked. I will check the temp rating b4 I apply it just in case....

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I used the Lucas oil additive in my last boat when i thought the motor was shot.I used it for 2 more seasons and sold it.I believe the thickness of the additive helped the old gal.Charlie

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You don't have to remove the engine to replace the pan. I have done a bunch of them while a pain in the but it can be done without pulling the motor.

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Lucas has a good product line. One of the few additives out there that isn't snake oil. All 100% petroleum based. No teflon or chlorine bases.

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jimr,<br /><br />I have heard it both ways. Sweat is cheap but I don't want to get in the middle and then have it towed to someone to finish the job. ASE mechanics tend to frown upon such requests. <br /><br />If you have any suggestions or techniques, it is a 351w on a 94' bronco with the heavy duty front suspension and a trailer package. I don't know if it is standard (oil cooler/tranny cooler) but she pulls like mule. Tends to swing alittle in a crosswind or around semi's.

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Re: More oil questions

Uh, ok JB whatever you say man. <br /><br />The Lucas line is great. They are one of the additives that are actually worth buying. <br /><br />Regarding the pan. You will not have to pull the motor. You will more than likely have to remove both motor mount bolts and raise it though. I have replaced many pans and oil pumps with the motors still in the car/truck. If memory serves you will have a double sump pan with the pick up tube in the front. Its gonna be a tight fit but you can do it. I would recommend the following order.<br />1- DISCONNECT BATTERY!!!!!!!<br />2- Remove motor mount bolts on both sides. <br />3- Remove all of the oil pan bolts. <br />4- Jack the motor and block it up. Watch for interfernce with the radiator/shroud/fan. You might have to remove the fan for more clearance but don't get carried away. <br />5- Drop the pan down.<br />6- Remove the oil pump bolt. If yours has the deep sump up front you will have a stud on one of the mains near the front. You will have to take the nut off to remove the pickup tube. <br />7- If you have enough room to remove the pump and tube do so. If not just lay them in the bottom of the pan.<br />8- Carefully snake the pan out towards the rear. It will come out. It may give you a hard time but there is a way. You will more than likely have to try several different ways before you get it out. Rememebr it because going in is slightly harder.<br /><br />Put it back together in the oppisite direction. If the oil pump doesnt seem to "seat" fully turn the engine a little. It has a 5/16 hex drive rod and will possibly need a adjustment to line up. This will take the better part of a day so be prepared.

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Well pointer- What did you end up doing?

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Kenneth,<br /><br />Decided to try the patch. I have had quite a past couple of days, (see request from financial advisors in the DC) buying a house. <br /><br />I am going to drain the oil pan, and clean it up with gas or kerosene and wash it out with steam. I will try it maybe tommorrow or later in the week. Negotiations on the house are on-going. Trying to keep it together for a couple more days.<br /><br />I'll give you an update when I am done. If it fails I could always replace the pan but I would like to keep costs to a minimum. No engine lift available. No real rush as this is used to tow my boat primarily and she is in the barn for the winter..

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Definetly understandable. I got about an extra 11000 miles out of the tires on my car because I just couldn't afford to replace them till I had no other choice. A word of advice on the cleaning is to use a brake clean product after gas/kerosine. You can get it at wally world for $1.50 a can. Two cans will do wonders for the gunk under there plus its non oily so the epoxy product will stick better, even if it says it will stick to oily surfaces.

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Use carb cleaner or mineral spirits .......PLEASE don't use gas

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Ditto on the brake cleaner... It leaves no residue...

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POINTER,The sealer i used is made by Loctite.

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UPDATE!!!!!!<br /><br />Spent a couple of hours under the truck and after taking a grinding wheel to the oil pan I found the hole. (More accurately my brother and I did) It took a couple of attempts but the sealer worked. I just need a 1-2 more years out of the truck. I can pick up another once things calm down with the purchases associated with the new house. <br /><br />OMC, Ken, and everyone who contributed (JB, I'm not sure ) thanks for the ideas and the insights. It has held for a week, I am keeping my fingers crossed and carrying a gallon of oil in the back just in case..

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Glad to hear it is working for you. Updates like this are nice because they tell us what it took and wether or not it worked. Thanks