Could use advice on my lower unit -pics..

Sat. went tubing on local lake. After about 35 mins of tubing, noticed a slight vibration from motor. Retrieved tuber and headed for launch. Never made it. Vibration became severe and before I could make it back, engine reved up (no load) and I lost all propulsion. I executed the humiliation wave, and a nice gentleman towed me back to the launch. The attached pics are what my lower unit looks like now. I would be most interested in your opinions on this one, as it might mean the end of the road for this old girl. I cannot find anyone who sells parts for the lower unit, and a rebuilt is at least $1000.00 which just is not worth putting into it. Almost forgot, it is a 1976 Chrysler, powerhead completely rebuilt ( and I mean completely) mod#907HB ser#10150.<br /><br /><br /> http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a342/Whoa2nellie2005/MVC-009F.jpg <br /> http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a342/Whoa2nellie2005/MVC-007F.jpg <br /> http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a342/Whoa2nellie2005/MVC-006F.jpg

Re: Could use advice on my lower unit -pics..

Try Ebay. www.fairwindsmarina.com has used ones in stock. They have tons of used stuff btw. I can spend hours in that place.

Re: Could use advice on my lower unit -pics..

I had a similar problem with my 1984 force 125. Housing cracked near the prop shaft carrier bearing.<br /><br />I was lucky enough to find used on ebay for $400 shipped. Subsequently I found other used units on ebay for less but that's the nature of ebay. I found other used units in the $800-$900 range and rebuilts for $900-$1200.<br /><br />If your patient, I think you'll find what you need.<br /><br />Good luck!<br />Jeff

Re: Could use advice on my lower unit -pics..

The bearing cage that is cracked in that picture can be replaced for about 50 bucks. The problem is if the prop shaft is bent. 1000 seems outragous however the parts might be tough to find. I would take the LU apart and see what is going on. At a minimum remove the bearing cage and see if you see any severe damage. My guess is when the bearing cage broke it caused the prop shaft to wear where the seal and the bearing come in contact. The only way to remove the prop shaft is to tear the lower unit apart. Keep and eye on ebay. Usually can find parts you need there for cheap.

Re: Could use advice on my lower unit -pics..

Well,<br /> I started taking the lower unit apart. It was not difficult to remove the carrier bearing, as the unit was broke on the one end, and cocked out on the other. When I took the broken piece out, about a quart of water came out, along with the brand new LU oil which I had just replaced. It was a putrifying combination of water, grease and silt (my guess), and was a repulsive milky color. If there is any good news, I do not see any flecks or pieces of metal in the oil - none.... No teeth, brass filings, or the like. Is it possible that when the carrier split, the prop shaft slid aft and disallowed any possibility of engaging?? I can only hope. Euro, I think your right again with your estimation, I have hopes that the shaft is not bent, will cont teardown tommorow.

Re: Could use advice on my lower unit -pics..

Get yourself a manual for that motor. The cheapest is from www.chryslercrew.com They have downloadable factory service manuals and parts manuals. New seal kits and bearings are still availible. When you get that prop shaft off pay close attention to where it comes in contact with the bearing on the bearing carrier. After thinking about it more my guess is the bearing siezed up and that is probably what cracked your carrier.

Re: Could use advice on my lower unit -pics..

This might help also<br /><br /> Lower Unit blowup

Re: Could use advice on my lower unit -pics..

Thanks Euro,<br /><br /> I have a Seloc manual, however, the details are a little scant. I think there is enough information to remove the driveshaft, which I suspect must be done to free the pinion from the prop shaft. I hope to get to this tonight. I just had the LU off to change the impeller, so I know the bolts should come right out this time, as I put "nvr seize" on them. The first time was like "yikes" I did not think they would come out without breaking them off. (An art form for which I especially excel) I had to apply heat to the mid section of the unit, where the threads were, and get it hot, thankfully the bolts came right out. Without the heat I would not of had a prayer. WD40 is useless due to the postioning of the bolts (upside down). I am hopeful the damage is not too severe (what do boaters consider severe anyway, $200,$300,$500?, or whatever keeps you off the lake despite the cost...another thread) I am going to take the previously posted advice from all contributing parties, with my thanks, and in such, hopefully, return this old dog to the track. <br />Til' then....... my thanks !