force ignition switch

fishinfireMan · Feb 15, 2005

hey was wondering if anyone knew the answers to a few of these questions on my force 120 1.i am having a heck of a time findin a replacement ignition switch its the type with the push in choke . are other brands compatible? 2. i guess its called the pivot to its where the quick connect screws in to on the outboard,, well the pivot tube is cracked.. how detrimental is a crack and if it is bad where the heck can i get a new one? no one seems to stock them.. thanks josh

Realgun · Feb 15, 2005

Re: force ignition switch

For #1 You kidding right? 1> Here 2> Here 3> Here 4> And Here Really should look in the iBoats mall. I typed push and choke in the search box. You didn't say if the switch is dash or control mounted but should be the same I am thinking.

Realgun · Feb 15, 2005

Re: force ignition switch

As for question #2 your talking tilt tube? I found a replacementHERE. Hope this helps. You had better search the site yourself I thought you had a force tilt tube but could be mercury as they transitioned to mostly Merc parts and motors later on.

fishinfireMan · Feb 16, 2005

Re: force ignition switch

thanks realgun!

roscoe · Feb 26, 2005

Re: force ignition switch

you can get most force specific parts from a mercury dealer.

gonefishie · Feb 28, 2005

Re: force ignition switch

question for you guys. I have a problem with starting my outboard (force 120) and I think it's the kill switch problem. When the key is turn, all gauges works, the choke works but starter solenoid doesn't engage not a single sound and I know the starter and solenoid work for a fact. I measure the voltage at each of the pin on the switch and they all read 12.4v except the two pins where the kill switch is connected to. I took measurement with the key turn like I am starting the motor. What I don't understand is how come the bilge and livewell pump works when they are connected to the same pins as the kill switch but I can't see any voltage reading? Is there a way to bypass the kill switch?

roscoe · Feb 28, 2005

Re: force ignition switch

gonefishie, you really should start a new topic, stating you problem in the title. Most people will not read this post because the problem was solved 2 weeks ago. You will get better exposure and responses if you start a new topic.

chuckz · Feb 28, 2005

Re: force ignition switch

The kill switch does not affect the starter, it kills the ignition. If the starter isn't energizing, check the neutral safety switch.

gonefishie · Feb 28, 2005

Re: force ignition switch

Chuck> can you shed some light on the neutral safety switch like where it's at, does it run to the ignition switch?

chuckz · Feb 28, 2005

Re: force ignition switch

The safety neutral switch is wired in series with the ignition switch. It can be one of two places either on the engine actuated by the shift linkage or in the engine control box. I don't know the year of your engine but my 1987 50hp and 1987 85hp both have the switch on the engine. The switch is normally open. To start the engine it has to be closed. You can test it by putting a clip lead across it. If the engine starts the switch is either out of adjustment or no good.

gonefishie · Feb 28, 2005

Re: force ignition switch

my neutral switch is actually on the throttle and there is power running to it when the key is turn, it has to be good since it make a complete circuit.

chuckz · Feb 28, 2005

Re: force ignition switch

Is there power on both sides of it? There should be when the ignition is on and the engine is in neutral. If not, you found your problem.

gonefishie · Mar 1, 2005

Re: force ignition switch

Well thanks for the help guys and my problem was solved. I replaced the ignition switch last nite and everything is ok.

force ignition switch

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