ignition switch

I have a 86 Bayliner with a 125 Force. My problem is when i turn the key to start the boat nothing happens. Choke will not work with the switch either. I have replaced the switch and still nothing. When i use a screwdriver on the starter relay the motor starts right up. any help on what to look for in trouble shooting this would be appreciated.

Re: ignition switch

Did you check the fuse?

Re: ignition switch

The fuse is good because once in a while the switch will work but not often.

Re: ignition switch

I have a 1994 Force 70 that was having a similiar problem, I replaced the relay, which was very similiar to the relay on older Fords (1984 LTD)Check and see if your motor has one, that could be your problem. Good Luck <br />BigD

Re: ignition switch

This may be a stupid question buy are you talking about the starter relay?

Re: ignition switch

Yes, sorry about the terminology(and spellin')

Re: ignition switch

Corrosion is the #1 cause for this symptom.<br />It forms so fast,and on everything in a boat.<br />Even if it looks like a good connection, disconnect the battery ,and clean the posts,terminals to a bright shine, and leave it unhooked.Then,go to the engine,and disconnect the solenoid(Starter relay) terminals ,one at a time,and clean them. A dremmel drill with a rotary brush works fantastic on this. When they look like gold wedding bands ,re-assemble, and do the other one.<br />Then, carefully (Carefull not to let the stud on the starter turn with the nut),disconnect the big terminal at the starter itself,clean,and re-assemble.<br />Get some CRC batery post protector. When the engine starts flawlessly, then spray all connections down with the CRC.It will look funky, but protects like nothing else.<br />While you have the terminals off the solenoid,you may want to replace it with a new one.

Re: ignition switch

soliniolds are the most none needed replaced part ive ever seen it buzzes so lets replace it WRONG bad connections are most likly the greif or poor battery good luck

Re: ignition switch

revertmastec<br /> You say it cranks OK if the solenoid is bypassed, so I'll take a risk and PRESUME the battery and cables are OK. How did you jump the solenoid? Did you jumper the large terminals or small ones? If you jumpered the small ones, it means that the solenoid is good....<br /> I've never worked on your motor, but I can tell you this.....until you check for voltage to the small leads on the solenoid, its all just guessing. You could have a wiring problem from the battery to the control, or from the control to the engine. <br /> I don't know which style solenoid you have, but I'll bet it has 2 small and 2 large terminals on it. Have someone hold the key in the start position while you check for voltage between the 2 small terminals with a test-light or voltmeter. If there is battery voltage there, you have eliminated the key switch and supportive wiring. The problem will be the solenoid or wiring from it to the starter.<br /> If there is no voltage to the 2 small terminals, then the switch, wiring to and from the motor, all connectors etc are in question. Also check for voltage using the black lead to engine ground and the red lead to the small terminals, one at a time.(don't want to be fooled by a bad ground lead on solenoid)<br /> You must determine which area to start looking.........or you'll chase your tail!

Re: ignition switch

Thanks for all the great ideas. I will try them and let you know how i make out. Thanks Again

Re: ignition switch

OK Guys,<br />I have traced the problem down to the circuit braker. As soon as i turn the key it trips the braker. I have dissconected all wires from the batt. except the main cables. One by one i started disconnecting each wire to narrow down the cause of the short. NO LUCK Is it possiable that the breaker itself is bad? Or do you think there is a short somewhere? Thanks

Re: ignition switch

If the breaker trips when key on, it means the accessory feed from the ignition switch is drawing too much current. Try disconnecting the accessories one at a time....<br />>lights<br />>sounder<br />>radio<br />>gauges<br />>misc boy toys<br />>or simply a shorted accessory wire feed pinched or rubbed to ground....

Re: ignition switch

it doesn't trip when the key is in the on position only when i push it in for the choke or turn it all the way to start the motor.

Re: ignition switch

A simple tip is to wire an old headlite right across the circuit breaker(leave circuit breaker in the circuit). When you turn the key on, the headlite will light from the high current passing through, but it will limit the current to a safe value. Leave in on while you disconnect wires one at a time till the light goes out. When the light goes out, you've found the shorted circuit. This also works good if you have a bare wire to ground. Wiggle and tug all the wiring harnesses aboard. If the light flickers or goes out, you have aggravated the problem and can localize it by where you tugged.

Re: ignition switch

disregard the above post. If the breaker only pops when you prime or crank, it is possible the breaker is weak. Do you have access to a ammmeter or a multimeter with an amp function?

Re: ignition switch

Try disconnectiing the primer solenoid at the motor, and the starter solenoid small wires. Then turn the key to start and prime positions. If the breaker doesn't pop, you know its either a weak breaker or shorted components. If the breaker pops with the components disconnected, then its a wiring problem (short to ground, wired wrong etc.)

Re: ignition switch

thanks guys, Problem fixed. It was the breaker after all. It is amazing the stress a $12 part can cause. Thanks again to everyone. Love this board

Re: ignition switch

schematic ,, love that headlite trick .. does it work as you say .... cause you said '' disregard above post ''

Re: ignition switch

Crab bait<br /><br />The headlight trick works perfectly.....The reason that I told him to disregard it is because I didn't realize that he had already localized the problem circuits(starting and enrichment)<br /><br />If you have a situation that keeps blowing a fuse, simply remove the fuse and bridge the circuit with a headlite. The headlite will glow bright if the short is still there. I gives you a visual indicator that can be seen from a distance. This comes in handy when tugging on harnesses or disconnecting components at a distance from the fuse box. It also saves on fuses instead of constant retrying and burning more. For fuse boxes using the flat plastic fuses, I took an old burnt fuse, shaved some plastic away and soldered on two jumper leads which I connect to the light. Everybody has an old headlight lying around with one burnt filament and one good filament.<br />