Suzuki 30Hp converting back to stock standard?

Hi, I bought a modified suzuki 30hp 89' model that i wanto convert back to stock standard, i've got another suzuki 30Hp for spares, so there is a couple of things I wanto know: I'm going to replace the current block and pistons and cylinder head and exhaust, as all of this is modified. I've bought new gastkets for the whole operation, so I'm good to go. I need to know: (1) what is the best way to remove the bolts without breaking them off? (2) Do I need to skim my cylinder head, as it is in perfect condition but just needs to be cleaned properly? (3) What is the right adjustments (screw turns) for all the adjusters on the carborators? (4) There is 2 different torque values written on the cylender head, what does both mean, why is there 2? (5) The oil injection has been modified to take premix fuel, should I keep it this way? (6) Any other tips and things I need to look out for, for doing this job myself? Sorry for this long post and all the questions, but I need to know as much as I can so I don't screw this up for myself. Thank you.

Re: Suzuki 30Hp converting back to stock standard?

Oh and I forgot to ask, the sensor that screws in, on the front of the cylinder head, is it nesasary to have that in or can i just cover it with a little plate? Thanks in advance.

Re: Suzuki 30Hp converting back to stock standard?

From my experience:<br />1) No good way if they are siezed. If you can get them started be patient and work them in and out in the travel the threads are givng you. If you get the head of the bolt up a little you may be able to sneak your favorite penetrating oil down the shaft of the bolt. sometimes the corosion is between the shaft of the bolt and the head and cover and not in the threads.<br />2) Yes, always. If the head is off make sure its true and flat. You can lap it yourself with sandpaper on glass.<br />3)Start at 1.5 out from lightly seated. Its idle air so out is more air, leaner mix, in is rich. Lean sneeze is to lean, seems to "load up" its rich.<br />4) Because there are two different bolts. The head bolts and the head cover bolts, different sizes.<br />5) I removed mine. This is a heavily discussed issue. The Suzuki system is strong but I have seen wrecked motors from lack of maintenance of the hoses in the system. User failure not system failure. Thats your decision.<br />6) Follow the steps in the manual, double check each action (step), make sure your tolerances are in spec.<br />7) If its the sensor in the water jacket it is a float switch that indicates the presence of water. I would leave it in place and functional.

Re: Suzuki 30Hp converting back to stock standard?

Hi jleus<br /><br />Thank you very much for the info, it has helped me alot.<br />Unlucky for me I do not have a repair manual so I have to use good instinct, and all the info I can gather here in the forum. That is why I'm having difficulty with the torgue values on the different bolts from the front of the cylendar head. I would geuss that the head cover bolts have the smaller value of torgue and the long head bolts will have the bigger value of the torgue?

Re: Suzuki 30Hp converting back to stock standard?

Your correct about the bolts. I urge you to get a manual. The Suzuki publications are pretty good and more detailed than the more generic aftermarkets. If your are getting geniune (sp) parts you should be able to get the book. Mine has part number 99500-95D02-01E on it.

Re: Suzuki 30Hp converting back to stock standard?

thanx alot. another thing I am confused about is the inlet case gasket, apparently it is not necessary to replace it after rebuilding my engine (part no: 13121-95D01) seeing that it doesn't get torgued like the other gaskets. Can anyone also please explain to me what you guys mean about winterising your engine? I'm from South Africa and really loves this forum and all the help here but some things I don't understand.

Re: Suzuki 30Hp converting back to stock standard?

I'm testing my newly re-bult stock standard engine this weekend, I hope I don't blow it up .... thanx for all the help, but there are still a couple of unanswered Q's.

Re: Suzuki 30Hp converting back to stock standard?

I have had luck not replacing that gasket (#13121). Its rubber coated metal and pretty durable. <br /><br />Winterizing or prep for long term storage is all about the same. Get an oil on the internals that has a better "cling characteristic" to protect from corrosion. Some call it "fogging oil", Seafoam Deep Creep has served me well. Get all the fuel out of the carbs and lines so its not in there when it spoils. Change the lower unit oil so if there is any water in the gear case it won't freeze (hence winterize) and break the case. Even if you don't experience cold temps its a good practice. I have seen some people give a good general spray of WD-40 or the like on the powerhead exterior (under the cowl) to drive away the corrosion demons. If you really care about it grease the pilot shaft and moving parts in the transom clamp. A good loving cleaning is always in order. On a DT I would have run the oil tank down (if your still injecting) as low as possible without running out, might even dump some out.<br /><br />At start up, fresh oil addition (clean the oil filter at this point), NEW FUEL, new plugs after you get all the "fogging oil" burned out, new water pump, and another loving cleaning!!!

Re: Suzuki 30Hp converting back to stock standard?

Thanx alot jleus, I really appreciate the information. I finished rebuilding the engine this weekend, but could not get it to start, but I did find that there was fuel streaming out the carbs by the adjuster screws not sure why that happened, and that the engine is very hard to pull (no electric start unfortunately) as if the compression is really high, should it be like that? After all the struggle I tried adjusting one of the carb adjusters and broke one off by accident, very dissapointed and feeling like an idiot, I now have no clue of what to do next ......

Re: Suzuki 30Hp converting back to stock standard?

They are a handful to start with the rope. If the ignition is on, fuel in the bowls, and the choke closed, I would stop pulling at 6 tries .... somethings wrong. That jet by the idle screw is an air jet ...... somethings not together correctly if fuel is coming out there. Its doing it on all three? Not being critical......but its hard to imagine breaking that screw unless it was siezed or already broke (?). Did you get that manual?

Re: Suzuki 30Hp converting back to stock standard?

So the heavy pull start is normal? I hope I don't pull my transom off. Yes there was fuel pouring out of all 3 carbs, that is why I turned the the idle screw back in again (on the 1st carb) to turn it 1.5 turns out to make sure that is the way it should be. But then I twisted it off by accident as I was giving it one last turn inwards (i know - idiot) Before I put the new block in, the engine ran perfectly so the carbs must have been fine, seeing that I just changed them from the one block to the next, so it's not making sense to me why the fuel was streaming out there. Could it be that the needle and seat is stuck on al three carbs? Oh yes and I forgot to mention that the spark plugs does fire, I tested them.

Re: Suzuki 30Hp converting back to stock standard?

manual?

Re: Suzuki 30Hp converting back to stock standard?

I can't find a manual anywhere in South Africa, and I don't own a credit card to order one online from browns point ...... so i'm pretty much stuck .....

Re: Suzuki 30Hp converting back to stock standard?

I think suzuki should make these manuals freely available to download off the internet, we bought their products afterall ....... I mean their logo is so big on these engines, it is the least they can do for all the free advertisement ...... man it sucks staying in a 3rd world country ....

Re: Suzuki 30Hp converting back to stock standard?

Ok I rebuilt all the carbs cleaned out everything and got a new air screw, petrol still comes pouring out the holes by the air screws on all 3 carbs and won't start, and very hard to pull the engine ... what should I do now, I am really in the dark ....... it is as if the compression is too high for me to be able to pull the engine, why is that?