1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

Just bought 1988 Yamaha 130 hp. I bought it knowing there was something wrong with it (not running right) It has a Yamaha 703 control which I think I know how to use bit not sure. Here is where I’m at so far.<br /><br />Good news: compression is 135 -145 all four cylinders , this is good right?<br /><br />I did manage to get it running but it only seems to keep running if I have the high idle arm up quit a bit and keep hitting the high idle switch. When it revs it sounds pretty good and seems to be running on all cylinders.<br /><br />Gas could be old or bad and filter could be crappy.<br />It seems like it starving for fuel. I need to pump the ball a lot.<br /><br />Perhaps I should hook a separate fuel tank with fresh fuel and see what happens.<br />Any other ideas, is this a good start to start eliminating things?

Re: 1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

go through the entire fuel system. to include lines,tank pickup and fuel pump and carbs. anything else and you will be in and out of the fuel system forever, also make sure you have a good water seperator installed between the tank and the primer assy. that motor has no high idle switch. it does have a choke switch.

Re: 1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

When you hold it up does that cause full choke? Or is something you keep pulsing?<br />What would be the proper starting procedure for this engine?<br />What do you mean by “anything else and you will be in and out of the fuel system forever” ?

Re: 1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

compression is 135 -145 all four cylinders

Re: 1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

the warm up lever on the box is just that. an internal combustion engine with a carb requires a rich mix to start and a faster than normal idle to remain running. thats the purpose of the fast idle lever is to increase engine idle speed. the purpose of the choke switch is to provide a means of enriuching the mix the cylinders see so the engine can start cold. what I mean by in and out of the fuel system is just that. you can fix it all at one shot or you caan fix at it a looong time, and hope no pistons get smoked. <br /> I see it all the time.<br /> clean out the carbs and the varnish inside the fuel lines or debris from the tank goes right back in and causes the same problems. if I were to guess I would guess that your boat sat a considerable time before selling and you most likly have no idea of any fuel system maint prior to you owning it.

Re: 1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

They way it is acting it really seems like crappy gas. The boat was used last summer and this issue came up at the end of the season. But over the years this boat has not seen much use and I assume there could have been long periods of no use. <br /><br />I can clean the filter on the engine okay, how does one clean the carbs? Do I need to take them off and take them all apart or do it on the engine? Perhaps just clean the bowls and spray carb cleaner through them, and compressed air ???? I would hate to screw up the settings. I plan to run a separate tank with fresh fuel after I clean what I can. If it runs okay. Next I would dump the gas (what do I do with it?) and fill with fresh and add new filter. What else?<br /><br />Is there a fuel pump?

Re: 1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

Okay, cleaned filter on engine it was full of crap/water and gas is defiantly bad. Pulled lower jets on bows, flushed with carb cleaner best I could. Ran with fresh gas on separate tank. Defiantly runs better and is smoother but still can not keep running unless I constantly tap the choke button. It revs up then dies down, I hit the choke and it revs up then dies down, will not idle.<br /><br />What is the box after the filter with the diaphragm and little reed valves, can it be bad with the symptoms I have described?

Re: 1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

that is the fuel pump<br /> replace it. 40 dollars<br /> the carbs must come off and be dissasembled. no other way.<br /> time to purchase a service manual and learn to read it. study it at breakfast,lunch and TV time. become familiar with the motor before twisting wrenches. 2 stroke motors work great and never wear out. usually they die from a fuel or cooling system failure. carb kits cost the same with or without a piston or two. same as water pumps,t-stats and pressure valves.

Re: 1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

Can not keep running unless I constantly hit the choke button. It revs up then dies down, I hit the choke and it revs up then dies down, will not idle. Does this symptom possible tie into a bad fuel pump? I’m assuming my problem is fuel and not electrical. Will this engine idle (perhaps rough) on 3 cylinders?

Re: 1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

Like rodbolt said ,change the fuel pump,unless you know for sure its been changed recently ,its just a good investment for the money.

Re: 1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

As rodbolt has advised you must also clean the carbies. That means taking them off, stripping them down, soaking them in carb cleaner and blowing them out with air. There are some small jets and passages in there that are blocked particularly the idle circuit. Get a manual and do it or pay a professional.

Re: 1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

Okay fuel pump on its way. Is there a carb rebuild kit or do I just need to buy a few gaskets for re-assembly ? What is a good service manual to buy for the back yard mechanic? Some car ones I had are useless, like Chiltons.

Re: 1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

Over to rodbolt. He is your local "the man" and familiar with what is available.

Re: 1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

Carb kits are available, I would reccomend bypassing the fuel barb engine fuel hookup with a straight hose. Also do the same with the engine mounted filter and use a water seperating filter in line to replace it.<br /> The best manual is the factory sevice manual from Yamaha.

Re: 1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

After rebuilding carbs will I be okay leaving set screws in same position or will they need to be professionally adjusted? Are the set screws just for idle?

Re: 1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

Set them at 1 1/4 turns from a soft stop. They are one of the items which can vibrate out of position.

Re: 1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

After I pump internal 60 gallon tank dry the best I can to remove old gas and crap, what is the best way to flush and clean further perhaps with an additive that I can slosh around? Right now gas that’s coming out is bad (smells and is discolored) but looks rather clean but I have not got to the bottom yet.

Re: 1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

what ray says. buy a pump. buy the carb kits. take careful notes.while the fuel lines are apart drag a piece of rag soaked in spray carb cleaner though as many as you can.<br /> like ray says either remove and plumb around the quick connect fitting on the lower cowl or replace that as well. the oring in it likes to swell and restrict fuel. install a good water seperator on the hull side. remove and toss the gas. find someone with an old car that wants it. sour gas tends to leave deposits on pistons and can lead to piston failure. to do the carbs wil take some wire snippers, a 10 mm box/open end a few screw drivers and a 12 mm. remove the air box paying attention to the choke if its the airbox mounted one. remove the airbox drain line and the oil tank vent line from the back side of the airbox while removing it. then unclip the choke linkages from the stbd side of the carbs. unclip the oil control link from the lower port throttle shaft. unclip the throttle links from the stbd side of the carbs. they are aft of the choke links. back off the idle speed screw 3 turns. unclip the link from the throttle tower to the throttle cam. remove the 4 10mm hex nuts from the top carb. clip the the tie strap on the fuel line. carefully twist and push off the line from the carb nipple. its eaiest if you remove the line from the pump outlet. then do the same for the lower. the lower fuel line will bend out of the way if you open the throttle while removing the lower port nut. follow the service manual for dissasembly cleaning and reassy of the carbs. if they are dual float models and you lay the floats on a numbered piece of cardboard and they were set correctly to start with odds are you will just need to check the float height but not have to reset them.after reinstalling the carbs attach the throttle link between them. loosen the shutter adjusting screws, they are on the stbd side and left hand(backwards) thread. ajust so both shutters are closed. hook up the oil control link making sure the arm is in the correct spot per service manual. hook up all remaining clips and linkages. move the idle adjusting screw back down 3 turns, prime the system and start the engine. 90% of the time if the manual for carb assy was followed no adjustments to the air/fuel metering screws are nessasary. if no leaks and the idle speed is correct install the air box making sure the oil drain and vent lines are installed and go play. its actually simple just take careful notes and dont become intimidated. at a good repair facility its a 2 hour operation to rebuild them. if I missed anything maybe ray or another will chip in.

Re: 1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

Rodbolt, Carbs are cleaned and rebuilt, the question is:<br /><br />“After I pump internal 60 gallon tank dry the best I can to remove old gas and crap, what is the best way to flush and clean further perhaps with an additive that I can slosh around? Right now gas that’s coming out is bad (smells and is discolored) but looks rather clean but I have not got to the bottom yet.”

Re: 1988 Yamaha 130 won't idle just bought it

pump out the tank throuh the feul sender hole. remove the sender, raise the bow and suck off the bottom aft corner. then install a good water seperator and refill the tank or at least 25 gallons or so, I personally dont like or use many additives other than ring free and fuel stabilizer. with todays nasty short lived fuel I reccomend fuel stabilizer at every fill up if your only using the rig occasionally. I have a few boats here that use 35-50 gallons a year and hold over 200. cant convince them to use it. have already rebuilt one due to deposits on the skirt.