Hello,I have twin 1991 yamaha 150's the starboard motor is having a problem with the oil buzzer. All three lights on the tach are blinking and I have a steady buzzzzz. I switched sensors from the remote tank from the port motor and no change. I noticed when I disconnected the oil sensor from the port motor the remote tank overflowed but when disconneting the starboard motor it didn't. Also both keys were in the middle position or test mode. Also when the sensor was pulled out of the starboard remote tank there was no oil flow but the busser was sounding. It also seems intermittent. The engine starts fine, run at idle for 10-15 min shut off then turn on again ,buzzer sounds. But not all the time.All new thermo, poppit values temp of motor 135, good compress, telltale has steady strong water flow.Any help would be appreciated.Thank you CArlo
search this forum for the bass and wallye magazine test procedures. read them carefully. if the remote tank oil filter is clogged it cant transfer oil faster than the engine can use it. the keyswitch has no "test" position. if the remote was trying to transfer oil when you unplugged the engine tank sensor it will never get the pump off command and will continue transfer until the remote tank is empty and the transfer pump burns up. or the key is turned off, whichever will occur first. its a very simple system but does require an understanding of how and why it works. do some searching and reading and post us back.did you properly line up the flat on the sensor screen to sensor body? did you replace the oil seal, or at least retrive the old seal, on the sensor screen? the seal is supposed to be replaced any time the screen is removed. also always drain the engine taank before removing the sensor screen. otherwise any trash or water at the tank bottom may endup in the pump. trash in the pump usually renders the pump inoperative and bad things happen just after that. like I say its an incredibly simple design but seems to kick techs butt. something about several things going on at once I think.
Thank you for your response.I read through the Bass & Walleye Article also thank you for that tip. After work today I am going to look at that strainer on the remote tank to see if it is clogged. The oil seal that you mentioned is on the remote tank or the main tank on the motor? I dont remember seeing any seal when I replaced the sensor on the main tank (2 seasons ago)I hope I didn't miss something. Also if you unplug the sensor on the main tank it should not turn on the pump?thanksCarlo
there is no main tank. try to stay on the same page as me. my brain hurts anymore . the engine tank has a reed type swith. position 1 at the top is xfer pump off, position 2 at the low level is xfer pump on. pos 3 is tank level critical and you now have 20 min or so of oil remaining and the alarm sounds and speed reduction mode is triggered in the CDI. the seal goes between the tip on the engine tank strainer and the tank. if its not there any trash in the tank goes down into the oil injection pump and creates its own set of unique problems. or it gets mashed down the tube when the strainer is reinstalled and shuts off oil to the injection pump. its all in the service manual.so if you did not see it odds are ya missed it. drain the tank and have a look and always retrive the old seal and install a new one.
Rodbolt can you further assist me with you expertise.Today I checked the stainer alignment, the seal is there, the remote tank oil filter and every thing looks good. The transfer motor runs with the manual switch and is pumping oil to the engine tank but not automatically when the oil level drops. The buzzer sounds at the low limit but no oil tranfer. I manually filled the engine tank between the upper and lower marks and have a green light and no buzzer going off at the moment but no automatic oil transfer when the key is turn on. When I have the key in the run mode and hit the manual switch the buzzer sounds. I read other posts and they mentioned the cdi unit. I swopped the cdi unit from the good motor and no change, same symtoms. Execpt now the good motor has a yellow light on the tach gauge and no oil transfer. When I turn the key on I hear the punp run for a few seconds then stop. The engine tank is half filled. This yellow light is to let me know that the oil level in the remote tank is low. Right? But there is plenty of oil. any suggestions on that. Was it because I disconneted the cdi and now its not reading correctly? Could the CDI be malfunctioning.I also read about the trim sensor causing a problem. The trim sensor shows to be working properly. The level of trim on the gauge is working. Is there something else I should check?I appreciate you time and knowledge.
hello once the yellow lamp condition is resolved either by testing the flaot switch or insuring the oil level in the remote tank is about 1/2 full proceed with testing. if the yellow lamp is lit it indicates low oil in the remote tank and prohibits oil transfer. with key on and engine off disconnect the engine tank switch.jump the blue green lead to black. pump should turn on. now move the jumper to the blue/white to black, pump should turn off. if it does not work move your jumper from black wire to a known good engine ground. if it works now test the black wire for continuity to ground. if the test with the black-blue/green and black- blue/white work then suspect the float switch is bad in the engine tank.
I have about 1/2 tank of oil in the remote tank but will fill up. Then I will try the test you provided to me. I will get back to you with the results. Thank you
Rodbolt,Thank you for resolving the problem with the yellow lamp. When I started to fill up the remote tank the light went out. Low on oil like you said. The port engine is back working properly.I ran the test you gave me and the pump does not turn on. The ground in the plug has good continuity. Also, when I hit the emergency switch the buzzer sounds but the pump runs. I switched the plug on the remote tank from the working engine to the faulty engine and when I lowered the the oil level the pump came on. So I would think that both remote tanks and pumps are working properly.Is the problem the wire from the remote tank to the engine? Do you recommend any other test that I can do? Thank you for your time.
yes read how the system works and quit swapping parts and names of parts. I have no clue what you said about plug swapping and level dropping the remote tank level has no audible alarms or part in oil transfer other than not allowing automatic transfer to occur if the yellow lamp is lit. so far the only abnormal symptom you have given is the buzzer sounding when transfering with the emergency switch, should not happen. by the fact that the pump can be manually run it tells me the wiring from the connector at the engine to the pump is good. the brown wire to the remote tank is 12+ with key on. the blue wire is the ground path for the CDI and the manual switch. when moving the switch your manually grounding the circuit. with the key on test for 12v at the bluegreen and blue white wires. if you have 12v hit the toggle for emergency transfer and watch the voltage on the system. you may be fighting a main harness problem. use a 12v test light and unplug the connector near the main harness with a yellow wire, blue wire, black wire and black/red. it may be a brown depending.set up a test light between the blue and the brown or the blue and the yellow on the engine plug. turn the key on. light should be off. switch the emergency switch on, should have a light. now with key still on jump the blue/green to ground. should have a light. jump the blue/white to ground, light should go out. CDI failures are rare. ground failures and harness failures not so rare. and you swapped the CDI and no change in problems. do you have a service manual for the engine ?
Finally,The ground wire that connects to the trim sensor was corroded out right at the plug. I replaced the wire up to the splice next to the main wiring harness connector. One question though, the wire was corroded back about 8 inches. Is this a sign for anything. Also the trim sensor on the tach is moving up and down about 1 or 2 notches when the engine is running Is it time to replace this trim sensor.I want to thank you for all your help and expertise. I owe you and case of bud, dinner or something. Let me know.Thanks again,Carlo
Yamaha oil buzzer
. the engine tank has a reed type swith. position 1 at the top is xfer pump off, position 2 at the low level is xfer pump on. pos 3 is tank level critical and you now have 20 min or so of oil remaining and the alarm sounds and speed reduction mode is triggered in the CDI.
Linear Mode
