Yamaha has online manuals for the late model engines. The C115 should be the same for all models. www.boatsetup.com has a link to them. What problem do you have?
No fire to plugs. I've got good resistance to charge and trigger coils and ignition coils too once I removed corroded plug caps. Should be receiving a new ESI 530 DVA meter today for testing. Ordered new plug caps from dealer ($5 a pop). Checked for spark from bare wire to powerhead but still have none.History of problem has been intermittent fire. Typically it has started cold ok and run for a short period then die and wont restart.Have tested with internal harness disconnected and white wire removed from cdi. Completely unwrapped harness to check for broken wires or corroded connections but all look good.Last Wed. I was checking it and had no spark. The next day I checked again and it did. I hooked everything up and it fired right up but only ran about 5 minutes and quit. Would not restart. Rechecked resistance to stator coils and all were still in spec. Ordered DVA meter.I ran across a post that suggested voltages in the range of about 40v for high speed charge, 140v for low speed charge and about 80v for cdi output to ignition primary. This for another engine but I will use these as a guideline.Thanks for the reply.KEW
I got a copy of output voltages from Jim, my Yamaha parts man at Maxim Boats Works in Seabrook TX. He's a super helpful individual.UPS man showed up with peak meter about 3:30. So here we go.Pulser should be 2.5v. I get about .5 on both.Low Speed Charge should be 160v. I get 50v.High Speed Charge should be 45v. I get 17v.CDI output to ignition coil primary should be 125v. I get 0v.If I understand all this correctly it would seem that there is not enough voltage from the pulser to trigger the cdi to fire some juice to the coil.To remove that flywheel can someone tell me the size of the 3 taps for the puller and the nut size. It looks to be about 1 3/16 inch but is probably metric.KEW
The charge coil output is not enough to fire motor. The flywheel nut is 30mm and the bolts needed for flywheel puller are 8.0x1.25 Head bolts work good but you must be careful to not run them in so far as to get into the lighting coil. Don't take them out of your motor since you may overstess or bend them.
Got the flywheel removed and found a fairly dirty stator. Question is what's the chance this just needs a good cleanup? There was one hairline crack in the orange seal and a bad rust spot on one of the pickups. I'm going to clean all this up and put it together and test output voltages again. Prudence tells me that since I've got it dismantled this far to go ahead and replace the part. But I also have read plenty of these posts that say these parts rarely fail. If its just debri and rust that I can clean up I'd rather not tear this apart any further and have to deal with the subsequent timing linkage re-adjustments.Not to mention the expense of a new stator.I have some pics but no way to post them here.KEW
Didnt work. Cleaned up the stator and all pickups and magnets inside flywheel and I still get the same voltage as before. I guess I gotta bite the bullet and spring for new stator. Just hope it ends there.KEW
The stator is the the part with two seperate coils monted on a movable arm controlled by the throttle. The lighting coil is the large coil with the tape completly wrapped around it. Yamaha uses different terms for electronics than other manufactors. Jinglesh also comes into play after translation. The stator is a trigger telling the CDI when to fire. The lighting coil produces the voltages needed for the fire. If your tests were not made with the engine actually running, they may not be accurate since if the starter doesn't turn fast enough the voltages wont come up enought to fire.
I have a good battery, new starter and the plugs are out so its probably spinning as fast as it can. Otherwise, without spark to the plugs to get it cranked how do I test it?I'm looking for a source for these parts used. Any suggestions?
hello on the c115 the pulser coils are mounted on the trigger plate that moves with the throttle arm. the stator is mounted to the upper bearing housing. retest with the wires disconected. and pay very close attention to the meter needle. if it swings up high then settles low test for bad grounds. the capacitors will charge and not discharge if the grounds are bad. the c model is a simple system. but with both the pulser coils reading low and the charge coils reading low I would suspect a fault in the grounds for the CDI or the cdi itself.the book I have in front of me covers tune up specs from 94-03. but I dont think the c model had any changes from 93-94. so test with the system unloaded (wires disconected at the cdi) and loaded. the yamaha specs are almost the same for both tests.
Rodbolt and Kew,When I checked specificationa in a Yamaha tune-up guide that covered 1984 thru 2001 models, it had 2 columns in it for the 115's. The one column was for the '84 thru '89 AND C115 engines. It did not give output voltages, just the settings to set the Y-1 tester to. The second column was for '90 to '00 115 models and did not list the C115. Those output voltages were what you were given in a previous post.I am guessing that your C115 uses the older style ignition system that needs the Y-1 tester to troubleshoot it.
seahorse the c115 used the side mounted CDI up till the 2003 or so that did not have the oil injection stuff built into it. the specs from the 94-04 guide lists the C model and the ign sysytem changed in about the 90 model range. ok now yall done done it. I just went and hunted up my 89-01 book. it lists the specs for the c115 and b and p and s 115 from 84 to 00. the 90-00 specs for the c115 are the same. its rather confusing cause they placed the c115 in parentheses just over the 84-89 colum. bad yamaha. but I am used to the screwy yammy manuals. so test it loaded and unloaded. if the unloaded specs are correct and the loaded are not carefully inspect all grounds. do the loaded test with the white and pink wires removed from the CDI. if it works with the white and pink wires removed odds are its not a CDI. if the stator and pulser tests pass unloaded but not loaded with the white and pink removed odds are its a ground or a CDI. i cant see the pulser coils and charge coils all failing at the same time. odds are rather long for such a multiple failure.
Great to have you back Rodbolt. Hope you had a nice trip and vacation. Kew. I may have a set of electronics for that motor. Seems like one of my V-4 projects that drug out ended up with me buying a complete set when I already had a set. Old age does funny things to your memory. I have personally found that most of the time these failures are connection problems on the ground side rather than component failures. The Jinglesh Yamaha manuals can be very confusing in the electronics areas. Unfortunatly, it can also be true on some of the other manufactors as well.
With everything disconnected I get the same voltages. I removed one of the trigger coils to check for corrosion under it or worn wires but found none.So where do you check grounds on these?
hello its still hard to imagine a trigger failure and a stator failure at the same time. I would test that meter on a known good engine. any engine will work as most all manufacture CD ign work with the same approximate voltages. would not be the first bad meter I ever troubleshot with. or leads that fail halfway through the procedure. which puts me back to why all my meters except the merc on are stevens cd-77. that meter is incredibly rugged and dopes a suberb job. I wont use digital meters for ign output tests anymore. to many problems. is this a new problem or has the motor done this since you owned it. but in any case before I ordered a trigger assy and a stator I would test my meter on a known good system. the only other thing I could guess at would be the remote possibility of a demagnitized flywheel. Ray its great to be back for a bit but I miss the fishing and the warm weather. I think I am going to sell my property and retire to rio chico VE .
I've had the engine 10 years and its been real solid until about a year ago when it started getting harder to start. Once started it ran fine all day. But in the last 6 months its started going flaky on me. Start ok, run 10 minutes and die and refuse to restart. At one time I sprayed some electronic parts cleaner up under the flywheel and spun it a few times and it started sparking at the plugs. Thought I had solved it, at least temporarily. Put everything together and it fired right up. Took it on the water and ran it 20 miles with no problems whatsoever. STored the boat two weeks, drug it South Padre the last week of Dec., it fired right up, we idled out of the marina but as soon as we jumped up on plane for about 5 seconds it died. It popped a few times while trying to restart but never would. Had no spark to any cylinder. Once since then in the driveway it started again, ran for 5 minutes and died and would not restart. I just received a new ESI 530 vom (same as Merc I think) to test voltages. Resistance on all the coils seemed with spec. How does a flywheel get demagnitized and can I check for that?
I still cant see a stator and a trigger fail. so I would double check the meter on a known sparking engine. you dont need the specs just test the trigger input and chargecoil. motor brand is irrelavent as long as it is a CD ignition system.cause its even more rare to see a stator failure on a c model v4.
I dont have access to another engine for testing my meter. For a moment lets assume the coils and cdi are ok. What else would I be looking for that would keep this engine from getting juice to the plug?
a brief rundown on CD ign. the flywheel outer magnets rotate around the stator windings. for your ign we will just deal with the low speed winding and call it a charge coil. the ac voltage produced is rectified and stored in a capacitor in the CDI unit. the inner or hub magnets produce an ac voltage called a trigger source, the polarity of the trigger determines which scr gets triggered and discharges the stored dc in the capacitor from the CDI unit to the ign coil primary wire. as the current flows through the primary ign coil windings it creates a magnetic field. when the capacitor is finished discharging the field collapses and induces a very high voltage in the secondary windings. it takes a minimum of about 60v true RMS to create a strong enough primary current to induce the secondary. that is why I say its hard to belive you suffered a pulser coil(trigger) and a stator failure at the same time. however you say that this problem has been getting worse. I have never seen a yamaha flywheel bad just a few 120-140 looper jonnyrudes. do you have a service manual or any electronics traing? do you have a friend with a running motor that you can play with your meter. all CD type ign systems work with the same basic voltages and theory. also check for any shorts on each charge and pulser coil wing to ground. there should be infinite resistance(open circuit) between the single wires and ground.
hey ray its odd that he has low voltage on the pulsers as well as the charge coils with the wires dissconnected from the pack. its almost inconcievable to have a simultaneous trigger and stator failure on a c115. unless saltwater got them maybe.that was why I suggested he practice with that meter on a known good system.without looking at it myself I am almost out of suggestions.
Anything is possible, but that would really go against the odds. I have fixed too many blown (so said the sevicer) CDI's by replacing battteries or finding harness or ground problems, Fortunately I don't have to contend with the saltwater stuff. You and my son in Florida can have all of it. Even though as cold as it is here, he is likely to have some supervisory help soon. Trying to trouble shoot the electrical system is tough enough with a manual.My experience on the stator and charge coils is that if they ohmed right they were right. They are just coils not like a cap or other electronic parts.
Ray its cold here tonight. 28 now and will be 21 or so by morning I am ready to move to venezuela. fish with the monkeys and drink fresh pina coladas made with fresh coconuts, pineapples and good venezuelan rum thats been most of my experience with charge and pulser coils. if they test correct with an ohmeter they normally test ok for voltage output. OMC quick start excluded KEW are you sure this is a peak reading voltmeter ?
testing Yamaha ignition voltage
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Linear Mode
