I have twin '94 model Yamaha 130s. One of them starts and runs perfect. The other runs fine once you get it started, but is very hard to start. I pulled the carbs and cleaned them--the only build up I found was in the pilot jets, which I cleaned and replaced. After reinstalling the carbs, the motor started as soon as I turned the key--first time it has done that (when cold) since I've had it. I thought I had solved the problem, but one week later I tried again and it was as hard to start as usual. When starting, I always pump the bulb tight, fully choke, and give about 1/4 throttle. I have found this to be the most successful method, although still not good. After starting the first time, it is generally not a problem the rest of the day, only when it sits a few days. Does anyone have any suggestions of anything else I might try?
Hi deedle dog, check out JB's post in the FAQ section,it gives you a process of elimination to follow,i'm sure you will have the problem solved in record time
That engine will not start with out the choke working properly. Pull the air silencer off the front of the carbs and activate the choke and watch what happeneds to the choke plates as you crank the engine. If the choke plates dont stay closed that engine will never start. While cranking the choke plates should stay full on while the choke is energized. 1. Make sure the plunger is free of interference 2. There is a line on the plunger that you line up with the choke solenoid. 3. You could have a weak choke solenoid. 4. The front gasket on the carbs to the air silencer interferes with choke plates. You must have the choke working to start this engine.
I eliminated the choke issue right off the bat by disconnecting the linkage to the choke solenoid and choking manually, insuring that I had full travel of the linkage. I marked full travel while I had the air silencer off and checked it after reinstallation to insure that I had not restricted movement in any way. I'm going to verify this again, though, because when I had checked this stuff was when it started good right after cleaning the carbs. Something might have changed since then. Thanks.
If its not the choke ISSUE and your 100% Its not the choke and the engine runs ok after its started. Then the fuel charge is not getting into the cylinders. The next question would be how many hours on this engine. If your 100% the choke is working and the engine idles and runs the full rpms there is a sealing issue in the engine piston rings,broken reed valve or sealing ring between the cylinders on the crank shaft. The engine is worn out or a broken sealing ring. Use a timing light as the engine is running and look in the barrel of the carbs as its running and watch the fuel come out of the venturi. If the fuel is not being pulled in the engine while cranking its a sealing issue. Its not a common problem but I have seen it befor. Watch the fuel it should be pulled into the engine if its being spit out of the engine, broken reed valve or stuck rings/broken rings.
A marignal battery, dragging starter, or corroded battery cables can contribute to hard starting. The magneto ignition system needs a minimum rpm to fire the plugs, and the faster it spins, the higher the available spark energy. Also inadequate starting voltage "weakens" the electric choke solenoid, the the choke plates do not stay fully closed. Choke solenoid travel adustment should be checked also.
hello if the engine idles and runs fine once started then check the electrical and battery cables. will it start ok if you manually choke it? if it were reeds or something mechanical it would do it running as well. good luck and keep posting
Most customers thing if it runs. It runs well. Thats why I said that. I've had many customers say it runs the rpms and you water test the boat and it doesnt. I was asking to see what they said. I know if it had a mechanical problem it would not turn the rpms.
changing the subject. I have the same motor set up on my 24 foot grady white. I just bought it and was curious as to what your fuel consumption is? the weather has not permitted me to really use my boat.can't wait for warmer weather. thanks
Deedledog - Did you resolve your hard starting(cold) problem? I have this EXACT problem in my '94 115Jet. Once started, it's good for the rest of the day.I have done everything (timing, synching, compression test,fuel pump,etc)except the carbs. I don't think it would start well anytime if the carbs were in need of repair.Again, starting procedure is to pump bulb hard, completely close choke manually, crack throttle to 1/4 and go for it. This is really frustrating to say the least. I don't understand what the "crankcase check valves" do. Could these be the cause? Thanks. Bill
Deedledog - I finally found the problem with my hard starting 115 Yamaha. I finally "did" the carbs and discovered all the floats were set too low. Some by as much as .050". This low setting makes it difficult to inhale the proper gas/air mixture at cranking speed. I think the improper settings were caused by the float needle tips expanding over the years. A longer needle results in a lower float/fuel level in the bowl. I have been chasing this problem for two years and finally got it. Good luck with yours. Bill.
If the engine starts fine with the manual choke, I have had good success with the following: The choke return springs (one on each carb) appear to be too strong for the electric choke coil. The choke plates are fluttering during cranking therefore not holding a vacuum. Using needle nose pliers, I remove the choke return spring on the top carb to allow the solenoid to hold the plates closed. Once this is done, there is a plastic bushing on the choke plate rod that will slide out causing slack in the shaft. I put a couple of small zip ties on the shaft and all is well. As far as throttle opening, just a touch past lever free fall is sufficient. More than a touch will cancel the vacuum also. Good luck.
Yamaha 130 Hard to Start
if the engine idles and runs fine once started then check the electrical and battery cables. will it start ok if you manually choke it?
"did" the carbs and discovered all the floats were set too low. Some by as much as .050". This low setting makes it difficult to inhale the proper gas/air mixture at cranking speed. I think the improper settings were caused by the float needle tips expanding over the years. A longer needle results in a lower float/fuel level in the bowl. I have been chasing this problem for two years and finally got it. Good luck with yours. Bill.
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