The Yammy service manual (Year 2000, 115 TLRY)for these four M8 bolts are confusing for their torque spec. I see M8 bolt torques varying between 5 and 22 ft-lbs in the tables, yet a generic torque of 13 ft-lbs on a separate page. Does anyone know the correct torque for the four bolts on this white plastic impeller housing? I don't want to crush the plastic... Jerry
tezam, in my manual ('98 115) the general torque specifications for all M8 bolts is 13 ft*lb. There isn't a specific tourque listing for the impeller housing in any of the diagrams
Eaglebob: Thanks for the response. Have you used the 13 ft-lbs torque on your Yammy impeller plastic housing in the past? If not, do you plan to use the 13 ft-lbs when you replace the impeller next season? Jerry
hello I dont have my yamaha manuals handy at home. 10 ft pounds should be sufficient. I never torque that housing as I prefer to feel it. but I have done several thousand of them so its hard for me to explain it to you. the plastic is harder to crush than you think. the torque in a yamaha manual is usually given in the exploded diagrams.good luck and keep postingif you still need the specs I can get them next week
Rodbolt: I appreciate your thoughts. My Yammy Service Manual doesn't show the pump housing torque in the exploded diagrams. Just the M8 identifier. Unfortunately, I don't have your great experience to be able to tighten by "feel". This will come with time I guess. Next week okay if you get a chance to look it up...Jerry
tezam, I am going to use 13 lbs when I change mine, it's not listed in the exploded diagrams that's why I would go with the general torque rating for that bolt. But like Rodbolt says, 10 should be sufficient,and he won't steer you wrong that's for sure.Maybe you could start at 10 ,then check it again after some use. HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL
Rodbolt: No problem getting off retainer/impeller assembly...although I admit that I carefully pried it off holding my breath (I don't have a spare yet). I read somewhere that it's easy to re-install the retainer with a one-inch PVC pipe over the drive shaft...which it was. Someone also told me about the neat trick to sit the SS housing over the shaft and on top of the new impeller, pressing down with the left hand, while turning the drive shaft clockwise with the right hand. MUCH easier than struggling to stuff the new impeller in the SS housing BEFORE putting it on the drive shaft. The BEST trick my marine store clerk clued me on (after I bought his pump kit)was to install the larger O-ring in the plastic housing groove only after placing the SS housing inside the plastic housing. It's virtually impossible otherwise. But you already know all this...so I appreciate your response. As EagleBob noted today, your 10 ft-lbs will probably be my approach if you don't find the time to get back online...Jerry.
Can anyone tell me if it is normal to have space between the drive shaft and the water pump housing? I noticed this when I replaced my impeller. The guy who did this before on this boat had all the spacers and collar on top of the housing instead of the insert caridge. The manual shows all these should be on the cartridge.
A boat mechanic told me that the entire water pump/housing was underwater anyway and this makes no difference.
Yamaha 115TLRY water pump bolt torque
I dont have my yamaha manuals handy at home. 10 ft pounds should be sufficient. I never torque that housing as I prefer to feel it. but I have done several thousand of them so its hard for me to explain it to you. the plastic is harder to crush than you think. the torque in a yamaha manual is usually given in the exploded diagrams.good luck and keep posting
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