1985 60 hp - .464" mark and timing pointer

doscaballo

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Hi,<br /><br />I am having some trouble with an 1985 60 Mercury. This motor is new-to-me so I'm not very familiar with it. The impeller had never been changed so I had a mechanic change it for me. Well, he went to start it after he changes the impeller and could not get it started although I did see the motor run when I bought the boat. He later told me something was wrong with the flywheel (I think it was cracked or something) and installed a used one. He also changed the shift cable. THe bill was $600, ugh...<br /><br />Now the problem is the engine will not idle correctly, not that it ever did. It dies when I put it into gear. If I can shove it into gear quickly enough the boat takes off and runs like a dream. If I just let it idle it dies quickly. If I increase the idle to about 1000 rpm's (out of gear) it will run for a few minutes and then finally die. The primer bulb goes soft (I don't know if that is normal or not) and if I pump it up again, I can start the boat and it will idle, again with me increasing the idle to about 1000 rpm's. If I pump the primer bulb while it is runnung there seems to be no effect.<br /><br />I have replaced the fuel pump thinking it's a fuel starvation problem but that did not help and now I have moved to timing. Oh, I am opening the vent on the fuel tank. This motor came with a service manual and between it and doing searches here, I am trying to get the motor set up to now check the timing.<br /><br />So, here is the situation; I don't have a timing indicator but by looking at the pics in the manual it looks like it is something pointy bolted underneath one of the bolts at the top most of the starter. It's the bolt closest to the center of the motor. In the picture it shows the .464" BTDC mark on the flywheel underneath the pointer. THis is apparently the proper set up to check the timing. <br /><br />Well, I get cylinder one to TDC (using my dial indicator) and make a pointer out of some plumbers strapping that is used <br /><br />to hang pipe. I put a piece underneath the same bolt as the manual and give it a point with some diagonal cutters. With the motor at TDC the .464" mark is directly underneath this marker. Both the manual and a post I found here say to re-align the marker after the piston is moved .464" from TDC which would place my pointer way off, certainly not underneath the same bolt as the starter as the .464" marker is off to the starboard side of the motor.<br /><br />Can anyone please shed some light on my dilemma? Is the flywheel mounted on incorrectly, or is it something I am doing wrong? I want to give it shot fixing this cause it just plain costs too much taking it to the mechanic. Any other thoughts on my idling problem?<br /><br />Thanks for any and all help,<br /><br />Mike
 

Laddies

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Re: 1985 60 hp - .464" mark and timing pointer

If the idle problem goes away when the bulb is pumped then the fuel pump needs a kit or the fuel line is not right, if pumpig don't help it the carbs need to be adjusted or cleaned. Most of those 3 cyls had a timing indicator in the pouch with the rope that snaped in a groove on the port side of the engine near the crankcase seam
 

doscaballo

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Re: 1985 60 hp - .464" mark and timing pointer

Laddies,<br /><br />Thanks for the reply. I take a closer look at the motor tonight for the pouch. I don't recall seeing one.<br /><br />Pumping the primer bulb does nothing for the problem while it's running. It seems to help before trying to start it again. I'm thinking about rebuilding the carbs myself. I just get theses mental blocks about doing it. A friend of mine always said "carburetor" is french for "don't mess with it..."<br /><br />Oh, there appears to be no air filter anywhere. Is this normal?<br /><br />Thanks again,<br /><br />Mike
 

Laddies

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Re: 1985 60 hp - .464" mark and timing pointer

Yes no filter, the carbs are a peice of cake on that engine
 

doscaballo

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Re: 1985 60 hp - .464" mark and timing pointer

Thanks Laddies,<br /><br />I took the carbs off the motor last night. Apparently I have to buy the needle and seat separately from the gasket set. The complete rebuild kit is $62. I think I will buy the gasket set for around $3 and am thinking about buying the needle and seat for like $10. If that is a bad approach please let me know. The carbs look pretty clean to me, btw.<br /><br />Oh, I can't find any pouch anywhere on the motor. I guess someone removed it sometime in the past 20 years. Still not feeling very confident in the flywheel issue. Maybe I won't have to fool with it.<br /><br />Thanks again,<br /><br />Mike
 

AMD Rules

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Sep 23, 2004
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Re: 1985 60 hp - .464" mark and timing pointer

Gaskets, needle and seat is a good idea. The whole 'kit' is more than you typically require for carbs in good condition. If however you think the carbs are gummed up bad from sitting, you may want the kit so that you can remove the welch plugs and blow out the orifices etc.
 

Laddies

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Re: 1985 60 hp - .464" mark and timing pointer

The flywheel is keyed or on splines, what happens is someone removes the inner bolts on the flex plat and does not index it, so puts it back on wrong. Just stick a screwdriver or something in number 1 spark plug hole and roll the engine up to TDC and ck it's alignment with the timing marks if it's wrong remove the bolts and align the marks
 

doscaballo

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Apr 9, 2006
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Re: 1985 60 hp - .464" mark and timing pointer

Laddies and AMD,<br /><br />Thanks for the reply. I took the boat and carbs to the mechanic and had him rebuild. I took it to the lake last weekend and it ran better but would not idle until it warmed up. It did cut out a couple of times while it was idling as well. I still don't have the warm fuzzies I would like with this motor. I think I'll try adjusting the idle mixture screws while the boat is on the water. Maybe the timing as well.<br /><br />Laddies, great idea about the flywheel. Thanks!<br /><br />BTW, anyone know a good outboard mechanic in San Antonio, TX?
 
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