aluminum boat hole repair

harleydyna · #1 April 22nd, 2002, 10:16 AM

I've got a 15 ft mirrorcraft with a bunch of rivet holes that need to be filled. I've used a Aluminum 2 part paste that has been working good. This wknd, I got hold of some Aluminum welding rods; the guy demo'd them on an aluminum can and it was pretty impressive. He used a regular propane torch to melt the rod and it held very well on the aluminum can.

When I got home, I tried it on the boat, but the bead just ran off the side. I tried to prep the area with a bristle brush, but the melted Al still ran off. Anyone out there have any experience with these rods? I got the rods at a 'swap' meet, so I can't get ahold of the guy.

Thanks

DJ · #2 April 22nd, 2002, 10:30 AM

SalC,

I think you're SOL. Boats are a different type of alloy. Also, the thickness is much greater. The can is maybe .005" and the boat is probably .080" or .090".

I use Marine Tex or J.B. Weld.

dustydiesel · #3 April 22nd, 2002, 06:45 PM

Hey Sal C I bought some of that rod off of the same guy worked great when he had it until I got home. I went to a show a few years later and a girl was selling the stuff she was a better welder and teacher than he was.The area has to be very clean. Heating the metal causes it to oxidise or corrode even after you have already cleaned it her trick was to keep rubing the welding rod on the area that you are trying to repair the scraping action helps to keep it clean until you get the metal tinned. I tried it on a step ladder brace and an old snow shovel. They make it look so easy when they do all the stuff that they have on display at the shows, for myself it was an exercise in frustration. Practise makes perfect try different flame setting to see if your torch is to hot or cold

crab bait · #4 April 22nd, 2002, 07:14 PM

i bought some years & years ago .. i can weld the heck outtta a beer can & STUFF but can never weld anythin'that i really need to for real.. i figure they may come in handy someday maybe if the beer i'm drinkin' springs a leak or somthin'.. DUSTY is on the rite track.... it's heat the area & scratch the rod on the heated surface... another very very important note :::: you have to use a stainless steel wire brush to clean the alum. nothin' else will work... it's your problem...

Dennyps · #5 April 22nd, 2002, 08:13 PM

I don't know if this will help or not but I had a 63 rambler with a {size of the tip of my little finger} hole in the gas tank and I used JB weld on it. I sold the car and saw the car 4 years later, I took the occasion to view my repair. It was still in place. So take it with a grain of salt, but I would bet money on it holding up. No heat, no mess, just a little mixing. Denny

crab bait · #6 April 23rd, 2002, 06:54 AM

GEE ,DENNY thanks for the " attaboy " on the other post .. then your an ole' pro at it.. jb weld & marine-tex are both epoxy putties.. marine-tex comes in white & you get more.. good luck..

harleydyna · #7 April 23rd, 2002, 08:00 AM

Hey... thanks crab bait for the reply. I'll get a stainless steel brush tonite and try preping the area with that. Loved your remark about the leaking beer can..I'll always keep a rod and torch nearby from now on.

Dusty devil- thanks for the advice, I may have heated the aluminum too much. I'll see what happens tonite

Codedog · #8 April 24th, 2002, 08:12 AM

If the rivet holes are just that - actual holes and not just leaking - here is a "McGyver" repair that I came up with to repair a friends leaking alum fishing boat.

I took a lead split shot and using nothing but needle-nosed pliers squeezed it into a tapered noodle shape, barely larger than the hole. Next I pushed the lead "plug" into the hole and using the pliers and a good sized rock on the opposite side I peened the lead plug until it expanded and mushroomed over on both sides. That was about 6 or 8 years ago and it is still water-tight.

That boat only has a 9 hp motor and is run on lakes, so if yours is a higher hp or harder use, I would probably cover this repair with some Marine-Tex/JB Weld.