[dugdamoose]

Hey! i have a mariner 115hp inline 6 #A181048 not sure about the year late 80's i think maybe early 90's. it used to run perfect until it sat for a couple of years. i took it out on the lake and for some unknown reason it just lost power. it would start fine idle fine and troll along slowly just fine but when i give it the gas it would bogg down and stall out like it flooded or was starving for gas. after cranking it over for a minute it would startup again but stall out again if i tried to give it too much gas . i figured out that the upper cdi pack was bad and wasnt firing on a couple of cylinders.could be cuz i hooked it up to my battery charger on 60 amp boost i heard thats a no good!)so i replaced the pack and i took it back out but still had the same problem.NO SPEED! i cleaned the carbs and put new gaskets and jets in them. took it back out and still no power. i messed up and moved the timing indicator mark(and also played around with the 2 primary and spark advance set screws)at the time i didnt know what they were for(my bad) and i cant make heads or tails what my clymer book is talking about.(it's not like a 350 chevy. i bought a dial indicator (i dont know what 0.464 is on it. i see the .464 on the flywheel but what do i do with it? the book either isn't clear or i'm too dumb to figure it out.TDC i know, but i'm lost after that.here's what i have done. it's got new plugs,gas/oil ,fuel lines, carbs are cleaned all plugs are sparking (blue spark)fuel pump has new gaskets. should i just bring it to the shop or is their still some hope left? thanks!

[MortenH]

Sounds like shes not getting enough fuel. But I think you will have to get the timing and sync 100% before concerning about the fuel. Check out this posting from Clams:Timing and Sync of Merc Inlines (to 1988) But check the year of your engine - the guys here can look it up for you - the procedure described in the posting is for engines up to 1988.As for your fuelproblem - try to squeeze the primer bulb when she bogs down. Also check your tank venting. Is the primer bulb soft or hard when running?-M-

[dugdamoose]

hi thanks for your help Norway. i'll check it out. can anyone tell me what number on the flywheel the pointer should be pointing at when my piston is at TDC? also there is a tachometer on the boat but isnt hooked up, do you know what the wires should be hooked up to ? thanks!

[dugdamoose]

here's a quick update. i just put my timing light on #1 top piston wire and started the motor. with the throttle linkage left off i manually slowly increased the idle which is at 4 degrees does that sound right? .so when i increase the idle i totally lose the light on my timing light the engine runs rough then if i increase a little more the light comes back on. it goes out again when it's at wide open throttle. i tried several times and as soon as i get to about the same spot the timing light goes out.if i keep it in that position it stays out. move it a little forward or back and the light comes back on. what do you think?

[Clams Canino]

I think the staor might have issues with the high speed winding - or that a trigger wire is almost busted.-W

[Clams Canino]

I think the stator might have issues with the high speed winding - or that a trigger wire is almost busted.-W

[emckelvy]

Yup, agree with Clams, time for resistance checks on the stator windings - the blue pair and red pair of wires coming from the stator, mounted under the flywheel. Seems to be a common thread lately, doesn't it??

[boatdoc]

once again clams is "da man"..the high speed windings kick in around 1800 to 2000 rpm,if thats where ur problem starts rearing its ugly head,fraid its stator time

[dugdamoose]

ok, so i checked out my stator and trigger i have a couple of questions1. my clymer book says to set the ohm meter to R x 100, R x 1000, R x 1. my digital meter has 200,2000,20K,200K,2000K ohm's so what would be the proper setting?stater test. connect ohm to blue and red stater leads with meter set on R x1000 should be 5400-6200 ohms. i set my meter to R 2000 and get nothing, if i set it to R 20k i get 6.4 ohms i get the same with the blue/white and red/white stator leads. 6.4ohms but if i move the throttle forward it changes to 6.3ohms.also checked the red and good engine ground and should be 125-175ohms i got 145 ohms same with red/wt wire.2 trigger, seperated the switch boxes remove all trigger leads,the book says to connect meter to the brown without yellow sleave and white with yellow sleave set on R x 100 should be 1100 to 1400 ohms. all i have for wires are brown, violet and white for each switch pack what do they mean by with yellow sleave and without yellow sleave?there are no stripes on the wires . so anyways i tried every combination i could think of with all ohm settings and couldnt get any readings .3. does anyone know what i hook up the tach guage to so i can get that working? thanks for all your help!

[dugdamoose]

hey Norway! what does it mean when you bog down when giving it the throttle. but takes off when my son squeezes the fuel bulb? vent on tank is fine carbs were soaked and fuel pump rebuilt. also all new fuel lines.

[Clams Canino]

Idle needles might need to come out a bit. Also warm it up well and use a "2 stage" holeshot move on the throttle. Spool it up to 2000 then nail it. All that happens in about 1.5 seconds.-W