Problems with Quicksilver controls/gauges for 200hp merc blackmax

I took my 22 aquasport out today on its 'maiden voyage' under my ownership, and ran into some 'wierdness' with the control box and gauges. Any suggestions are helpful.<br /><br />The engine (1985 merc 200HP blackmax) ran like an absolute top... However while running at about 3500 rpm for about 10 minutes, an alarm went off in the control box. I immediately throttled back to make sure it wasnt an overheat alarm - engine was still peeing and the block wasnt hot to the touch... The engine has a new stainless steel water pump last fall and a new thermostat ... So it probably WASNT overheating, as tyhe engine was running fine, the telltale water wasnt hot, just warm to the touch, and the block behind the flywheel wasnt hot.<br /><br />After I throttled back, I lost all my gauges. The engine continued to run just fine. I tried to trim the motor up some, and i lost my power trim as well. I figured I blew a fuse, so I went on my merry way. When i got back to the launch to put the boat back on the trailer, i tied off to the dock and started looking for fuses. I subsequently did the following:<br /><br />Looked for fuses, disconnected the wiring connector to the control box, put back together, changed the battery switch to battery 1 (was running on 2). I then tried the trim, and it was back, along with all the gauges. <br /><br />I suspect it is a faulty alarm as the engine wasnt overheating - but why would this kill all my gauges - no tach, trim gauge, fuel, or power trim buttons. <br /><br />Please help!!! Could this be a faulty control box? I don't wanna throw parts at it!

Re: Problems with Quicksilver controls/gauges for 200hp merc blackmax

On my 1985 Merc 150 that BEEP BEEP BEEP is the oil injection warning going off. Not good.

Re: Problems with Quicksilver controls/gauges for 200hp merc blackmax

I Understand your not wanting to throw parts at it.<br />When trying to start, was the battery draining to dead, or did you just switch batteries to see what was up?<br />I've heard of stator failure causing those symptoms, and you'll need the manual and a very good meter to diagnose.<br />Stator failure would also manifest itself as a poorly-carging, or no-charging battery, rough running, or stalling. (this is what requires the good meter).<br /><br />A faulty recifier could introduce raw A/C current to the D/C devices, and freak tham all out too.<br />Check this as you would a bridge diode assembly, because that's what it be.<br /><br />A bad regulator would pass a higher voltage to the battery (and everything hooked to it) than 14VDC, and do all kinds of damage.Check with your meter for voltages above 14VDC at the battery when underway.<br /><br />Oil ijection is of course, the first thing to check after overheat, but doesn't send all the 'lectronics into a tizzy. But absolutely, check that first and foremost.

Re: Problems with Quicksilver controls/gauges for 200hp merc blackmax

BTW this is a NON oil injection motor - premix only!!

Re: Problems with Quicksilver controls/gauges for 200hp merc blackmax

I switched batteries from 2 to 1, and the motor started fine. I also switched from 1 back to 2, and the motor started fine again... HOWEVER - the motor fires right off - even cold ....one quick key and off it goes as long as you run the primer button when cold - or not at all when warm.

Re: Problems with Quicksilver controls/gauges for 200hp merc blackmax

also - 12 footer, my vhf and my fish finder did not freak out, and they were on at the time, and continued to be on... i dont know if its the regulator then?

Re: Problems with Quicksilver controls/gauges for 200hp merc blackmax

Only the meter will tell, Jim. It is suspect, as is the stator, rectifier (if seperate piece from regulator), and all the connectors for signs of corrosion. One faulty intermittant connection,and you got grief, so get a dremmel with a rotary wire brush bit, and polish all real shiny, reconnect, and seal with liquid tape to waterproof them.<br />Do this after checking the stator, regulator, and rectifier tho. You dont want to have to clean and re-seal them all after doing it once allready).<br />The VHF, fishfinder, and other electronic (I meant to say electrics before), have built-in regulation which protects them to a large degree, from overvolt and A/C damage, for a while anyway.<br />We need to find out what voltage you got at the batteries, and if there is any A/C present.<br />If that checks out, you can try ohm-testing the stator, and then checking it's output to the specs in the shop manual .

Re: Problems with Quicksilver controls/gauges for 200hp merc blackmax

JJ,<br /> Check your battery connections and cables at all ends coming off the motor(on motor too).You may have a loose connection or corrosion.Check grounds.Also,it is a good idea to "load test" your batteries.This will show any fault/problem with the batteries.Do both batteries have enough water in them?Make sure your switch is engaged fully into position and not "floating" between 1 or 2.Check connections behind switch.<br />It sounds like a general electrical problem that caused the horn to sound and loss of guages,trim,etc.Maybe throttling back vibrated a connection lose.

Re: Problems with Quicksilver controls/gauges for 200hp merc blackmax

the batteries that are in here are NOT marine batteries: they were new napa truck batteries that i assume the previous owner had stolen from work. <br /><br />I was just reading through my clymers manual, and I came across this blurb:<br /><br />CAUTION: Sealed or maintenance-free batteries are NOT recommended for use with the unregulated charging systems on Mercury outboards. Excessive charging will cause the electrolyte to boil, resulting in its loss. SInce water cannot be added to such batteries, the battery will be ruined<br /><br />Added/Edited: <br />could this merely be a battery problem, since these are maintenance free truck batteries? Granted: I am not retarded, and I will replace these batteries eventually for marine ones - i just havent had the funds or the time YET... perhaps a new set of good marine batteries will fix my problem? I really dislike the idea of yanking the flywheel and digging around in there for corrosion, but if it's unavoidable I will do it.

Re: Problems with Quicksilver controls/gauges for 200hp merc blackmax

I've heard of that on iboats in a previous post. Do a search for "battery overcharging" or related subject, and you should turn-up the fact that yours is unregulated. I didn't know that it was not.<br />But if not, you can retrofit it with a car regulator,so it doesn't cook the batteries with 18VDC that they put out.I've heard of the afflicted boater running all electrics off the battery not being charged at that moment,and the batteries switched often.<br />This keeps them from overcharging to some degree, but will still cook them (because hopw do you tell outside of the voltmeter?).<br /><br />I assumed Mercury fixed that problem in the early 70's with the introduction of electronic ignition systems..Hmmm.Ya learn something new every day.

Re: Problems with Quicksilver controls/gauges for 200hp merc blackmax

one of the older salts at west marine gave me a pointer to try cleaning the perko battery switch for corrosion, as a possible odd ground could have caused that scram due to wierd grounding... i will start there...anyone else ideas?<br /><br />i dont know if the ground could have done it though, because all my electronics are on the same ground...

Re: Problems with Quicksilver controls/gauges for 200hp merc blackmax

^^^^

Re: Problems with Quicksilver controls/gauges for 200hp merc blackmax

Hi JerseyJim<br /><br />Hey, did you manage to read my reply to your post yesterday?. You were asking whether your motor is regulated or unregulated. I have a similar motor to you.<br />Have a read, hope it helps.<br />Also, it sounds like you may have broken wire/s in your control box/boat harness OR the plug connection as your rpm and trim guage signals pass thru these. <br />Does your boat have a main fuse that protects ALL your ancillaries?, it should have for safety's sake and is USUALLY fitted near the battery somewhere. It could be blown, rendering some or all of your boats electrics useless.<br />Remember- water, electricty and copper wires are NOT a happy team!!.<br />I have a similar motor and identical Clymer manual and being an automotive electrician- I reckon we'll eventually have you up and running!!.<br /><br />hope this helps, let me know<br />Nilsson

Re: Problems with Quicksilver controls/gauges for 200hp merc blackmax

another 2cents....<br />Automotive alternator regulators CANNOT be used to control outboards as they merely regulate the output to the rotor via the slip rings (around 4amps @ 14.0V) which will in turn regulate the output at the B+ main terminal stud between 14.2v to 15V, depending on the brand of Alt. The simpler Auto regs (Bosch, Delco, Nippondenso) work by sensing the raw DC voltage from the rectifier (dynamo positive or D+) then governing the Amp output to the rotor windings, NOT the main "B+" output itself- sorry guys!. Outboard alts merely use a single phase AC stator output, the "rotor" is the magnetic flywheel- obviously uncontrollable.<br />Alt. Regs work merely by governing down the rectified stator output to a safe 13.9- 14.5v. <br />Many older outboards, even your big horsepower 200 were unregulated due to the RELATIVE lack of elec devices. Mercury were slow do fit regs to outboards though, OMC had them since the late 70's in the high horse sizes I think. Despite the steeper voltage (16-17V raw), MOST electronics have a wide tolerance (my Lowrance sounder will safely handle 18V before the overvoltage protection cuts in- it wouldnt be damaged) but check yours first!.<br />In Australia, and undoubtably in the US, we can buy a unit called a Redarc DC-DC converter. Its basically simialr in concept to an outboard reg but its used in plenty of appications a stable voltage is needed. It basically accepts a high or erratic DC voltage (up to 24V) and governs it down to a nice, stable and adjustable DC output. The one I've used handles 20amp continuous- around 250watts and can be adjusted anywhere between 11.5- 15V. They are often used by 4wd freaks who are paranoid about their CB radios. The one I've fitted to outboards costs around $A250- not cheap, but an alternative to often inflated outboard electrics.<br /><br />Just mindless waffle from a SOMETIMES motivated Auto Electrician cum shadetree Outboard nut!<br />I'd rather be fishing...<br /><br />Nilsson

Re: Problems with Quicksilver controls/gauges for 200hp merc blackmax

nilsson - it wasn't a fuse, because all of my power came back when i threw the battery switch around / pulled the main power connection to the throttle.<br /><br />I am half convinced there is something funny going on in the control box / throttle mechanism.<br /><br />the next time i take it out if it freaks again i'm going to pull only ONE thing this time - the main control box plug...

Re: Problems with Quicksilver controls/gauges for 200hp merc blackmax

Hi JerseyJim<br /><br />Yep, it sounds like its back to basics!. I have the Clymer in front of me now, (ALL V6's serial No. 5464486 up) on pages 386-387 with the control box (Commander) on p389. How is the red wire and fuse which feeds the controlbox?, there must be power getting thru. Check that red wire everywhere and thoroughly, its your controlbox's main artery!. <br />The switchboxes/engine can operate without the Ign sw or red wire connected to anything- the switch only serves to kill the motor by grounding- this is why your motor runs fine but no gauges and trim/tilt. The red power feed to the box controls guages, ancillary output and trim/tilt control relays. Note that the red becomes brown/white inside the box to control trim/tilt.<br />It seems you either have no power to the box or a wire inside (red) has broken. <br />I've seen the guts of control boxes- a ghastly concoction of springs, ratchets, cams and pawls..ugggh. If you're game, open it and repair the wire- it shouldnt cost a cent, maybe just your sanity if a spring takes flight!.<br /><br />Hope it works out, let me know. It HAS to be simple, it really looks to be that red wire.

Re: Problems with Quicksilver controls/gauges for 200hp merc blackmax

i have what appears to be the control box on pg 391 - but its not a side mount control its a console control, and the wiring similar to the harness on page 395 ... actually not similar - identical!

Re: Problems with Quicksilver controls/gauges for 200hp merc blackmax

Ahaa!, now here's a completly different animal!. <br /><br />OK, just went thru it. Your engine wiring is on page 380/381 (serial No 5363918 and below)- sorry for assuming the later model!. The Ignition switch, in this case, DOES control guages/trim/tilt, etc, via the WHITE wire. Red is still the main man but it is switchable by the main ign sw. On the ign sw connections, orange is engine kill, black is earth (engine kill), red is batt positive and white is switched pos. The black is a permanent earth for everything so it NOW appears either the red is open circuit, the ign sw is worn (very possible with this system) or you may have a wire/connection break inside the box. I've noticed that white wire is connected to everything inside the box (poor solder join/crimp) so a break is very possible also. Is your ign sw mounted in the console or controlbox?, access might be easy if the former. Check for switched pos at white. Hopefully this is your prob- easily fixed if so<br /><br />let me know<br />Nilsson