1969 25 hp assistance please

imported_Mo_Tick

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Jul 18, 2005
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Got this Motor pretty cheap. its in good shape, new water pump, impeller and power head. <br /><br />i have pulled and pulled, i clean the plugs, and it fires up...that water in the barrel seems to oily to me, i figure the motor just needs to be run. i shut it down and pull again, and its very hard to start. the Plugs are wet, with Gas on them. <br /><br />when i choke the Carb, a little gas will spit or run out the mouth.<br /><br />i know its Flooding, my question is this, will a carb kit and new float work, i did get a Manual (service) from this site. i paid 250.00 for the motor, i dont think im that far off. <br /><br />new plugs and a carb kit? why would so much oil be comming out the exhaust?<br /><br />thank you<br />Tom
 

WillyBWright

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Dec 29, 2003
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8,200
Re: 1969 25 hp assistance please

About 30% of what goes thru it doesn't burn at idle. Yep, almost a third is wasted and dumped into the water. That's why the EPA hates them so much. But they're very efficient at high RPMs.
 

imported_Mo_Tick

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Re: 1969 25 hp assistance please

thanks willy, i think its a waste also, but wasnt sure if it was supposed to do that.<br /><br />got anyone selling a starter for this here motor? if pulling its gonna be like this..whoa..i wanna fish not get pumped..
 

Paul Moir

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Re: 1969 25 hp assistance please

You can actually still get the electric starter kit from a J/E dealer, PN 171845. I think it's about $400 but it has everything you need.<br />Alternatively, you can get the parts off an old (60s-70s) 25hp/20hp/18hp. You need the starter, starter bracket, solenoid, wiring, start switch. Ebay is a good source, as are outboard junkyards (both online and local). Usually the best price is at your local junkyard, next is ebay, and last is the online junkyards (twincityoutboards, seawaymarine, marinepartsoutlet, etc)<br /><br /><br />Once you get it tuned up and adjusted properly, it should be easier to start - just a couple pulls. At least it'll be easier to pull over once it's on a boat. Remember it's not really important how hard you pull but usually it'll need a couple pulls if it's cold. That is, don't yank your arm off trying to start it.
 

imported_Mo_Tick

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Re: 1969 25 hp assistance please

Paul, i talked to a guy in Mn(twinncity), sent me a price of 175.00 for the starter,bracket and solenoid, i think i could fab the switch myself.<br /><br />i took the Carb apart, and it all looked in great shape, matter of fact, the float looked new. i think i will get 2 new plugs, that my be my biggest problem right now.<br /><br />as far as adjusting the Carb, it appears that i cant set the Idle? is that right, or is it the low speed needle for that.<br /><br />will do plugs and let you know.
 

tashasdaddy

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51,019
Re: 1969 25 hp assistance please

thats what the low speed needle is. you may have to take knob off to adjust it out. you can do rough adjustments in a tank, or on muffs, but you will get better results by fine tuning on the water.
 

BoatBuoy

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Re: 1969 25 hp assistance please

You talk about choking and flooding almost in the same sentence. If the motor is warm, and inclined to start, choking will flood it.<br /><br />Also, it may be after the fact, but if I had the carb apart, I would have soaked it or at least emptied a can of carb cleaner on/in it. Then install a carb kit. If you do have it apart, pay particular attention to the float level and thoroughly clean/inspect all orifices.
 

imported_Mo_Tick

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Re: 1969 25 hp assistance please

thanks for all your advice so far. Boatbouy, i dont have the carb kit yet, but its no big deal to remove the carb anyways, i did unload 2 cans of cleaner on it. <br /><br />i do notice when, i turn the handle from STOP to START there is about 1/2" of play before anything moves, how do you tighten that up?<br /><br />the problem is...Cold motor...VERY VERY HARD TO START. warm 1/2 pull with my little finger gets it going. i still think plugs are the prob (right now).
 

BoatBuoy

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Re: 1969 25 hp assistance please

Plugs should be Champion J4C gapped at .030.
 

imported_Mo_Tick

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Re: 1969 25 hp assistance please

does the Low idle needle need to be screwed all the way in then back 1/2 turn or a full turn or is this just dependant on the motor?
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: 1969 25 hp assistance please

i would start at 1 1/4 turn from soft seat. get it running in a barrel then fine tune old the boat in water.
 

imported_Mo_Tick

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Re: 1969 25 hp assistance please

thanks, 1 1/4 seems to be correct in the Barrel, New plugs in it, and it started right up, i let her run a while and the smoke stopped....HA HA now i can breath.<br /><br />i think your also correct, i need to get it in the water, run the heck out of it then slow and try to adjust it for trolling and what ever.<br /><br />thanks,<br />i still want an elec starter.(dreamning)
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: 1969 25 hp assistance please

a decarb with seafoam probably will make it like new. search seafoam and decarb. glad your running. i have a '55 15hp rude that i love.
 

BF

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Re: 1969 25 hp assistance please

my 1970 25 hp is somewhat picky about the use of the choke...<br /><br />Here's the cold start procedure:<br /><br />pump bulb to firm, check in neutal, put throttle to start (max that it can go to in neutral), pull choke, pull motor (or bump electric start if I have the battery in the boat). First pull it won't fire, 2nd pull it fires briefly and dies. That's when the choke should be pushed closed. Third pull with no choke and it runs... I may need to blip the choke if it starts dying, but definately don't leave it out.... mine floods easy. Sometimes it will stay running on the 2nd pull, if you're really quick in pushing the choke in.<br /><br />Electric start is very nice... when cold you basically pull out choke and hit the start button, as soon as it fires push the choke in.<br /><br />Hope this helps...
 

imported_Mo_Tick

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Jul 18, 2005
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Re: 1969 25 hp assistance please

ok took it on the water, it didnt start right away but found out the same as BF. once it was running, the low speed idle was rough, i adjusted it but i think this motor needs to be run. <br /><br />Now for the Bad News.<br /><br />the lake i was on has a 10 hp limit, anything over that gets to run at no wake.. well i am the only one on the water on tuesday morning, so i open her up..GPS clocked me at 26.4 MPH..WOO HOO I LOVE IT. i slowed it down as i know this lake has many hidden treasures sticking up from below right below water line..<br /><br />at 5-7 MPH i hit a Stump, the motor kicked up, and i shut it down, things looked ok, started her up and shifted into gear..no go, didnt move..got out of the lake, pulled the prop off and i busted the shear or drive pin...nothing else looks harmed..<br /><br />Questions, can i use any type of shear pin from a hardware store? please give me your thoughts.<br /><br />anything else i should inspect before i go out again?<br /><br />How tight should the nut be against the prop..should there be 1/16 play in it? <br /><br />thanks again<br /><br />tom
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: 1969 25 hp assistance please

i have order engine specific shear pins from sea-way marine 1-800-332-0803 8am-4pm pacific time. they have other old stuff.
 

BF

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Re: 1969 25 hp assistance please

Hi,<br /><br />Your local jonny/rude dealer should have shear (drive) pins. They used the same ones for a bunch of models during those years. My 6 hp uses the same as the 25 hp. I would use a "real one", not one that may not be the exact one (or a nail or anything like that). You want it to shear when required, not be made of other metal that won't shear and have your gears get damaged instead.<br /><br />Of course get a few and keep spares with the motor. I stuck a couple in a rubber stopper (the kind with holes in it) and zip tied that to the block.<br /><br />As for tightness of nut... it doesn't need to be overly tight, snug and the holes should line up so you can get the cotter pin through. You might wanna put a new cotter pin. You can pick up a pack of large stainless ones at a hardware store.<br /><br />How's the prop look?? an unbalanced (bent) prop can reek havoc with the lower unit seals/bearings/gears. If it's bent or has chunks missing, a prop shop can repair to as good as new for not much $$.
 

imported_Mo_Tick

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Jul 18, 2005
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Re: 1969 25 hp assistance please

Prop looks ok, no chunks missing, i will double check to be sure its no bent but i think i just hit a wet soggy tree stump.<br /><br />thanks for the quick replys.<br /><br />Tom
 

imported_Mo_Tick

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Jul 18, 2005
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Re: 1969 25 hp assistance please

where would a guy get some actual photos of this motor new.. i was thinking about fresh paint and decals, but dont or cant find good photos of one..<br /><br />1969 Johnson 25 hp
 

River - Runner

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Mar 26, 2005
Messages
343
Re: 1969 25 hp assistance please

Tom - Congratulations on that motor purchase! I think you have one of the best 25 hp. motors made. It weights only 78 lbs., is strong and fast and I like the rope start.<br /><br />I bought my pictured 1969 25 hp. short shaft motor new for $500.00 when I was 18 years old. I always use it a lot on my 1968 14' FD AlumaCraft and even for slalom one ski water skiing. This motor will outlast me. It is all original, other than the spark plugs, points and condenser. I have the original prop (white) but pictured is a backup prop (black).<br /><br />I only have this one picture for now, taken in December for the motor stand I made. I will try to post better or more pictures later and more information. I have the 1969 Johnson brochure.<br /><br />Just my thought on your last post. We are getting off your original subject now. If a new post with this subject was made, others would maybe see it and respond with input.<br /><br />Enjoy that motor!<br /><br />
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