skegguard or new skeg ???

i bottomed out my skeg on a sandbar in some ruff weather, its got a pretty fair bend in it.. My question is,<br /><br />Is it smarter buy a SS-skeguard(120$) and cut the bent part off? or is smarter to buy a new skeg (20$)? it seems a new skeg would be hard to weld on perfect. i can weld, but not aluminum. where would you find a professional that can weld aluminum. and im sure with labor it would cost much more then 100$... Are there any CONS to a skeguard???<br /><br />thanks... this site is truely an awsome find form me<br /><br /> -Team_starcraft-

Re: skegguard or new skeg ???

You have nothing to lose, so here goes...<br /><br />You need two large hammers. One will be doing the pounding, the other will be an anvil. Hold one on the backside of the bend as you moderately pound on the skeg. Move things around. Hit an inch or two away from the anvil, that's what does the bending a tiny bit at a time. Don't hit in the same place all the time and work from the thin part up to the thick part. Don't try to pound it out in a few whacks. Take your time. 5 - 10 minutes usually does it. Really bad ones take a little longer. Wear Safety Glasses!<br /><br />If it's really bent, it may bust. If there's a crack, it will bust. If you hit it too hard, it'll bust. And if you don't use something on the backside to absorb the shock wave, it'll bust. Welds bust off, too.<br /><br />My preferred set is a hand-held sledge for the anvil and a medium sized plastic dead-blow. Other things work as anvils if you don't have an appropriate hammer, but that hand ends up getting the shockwave too.<br /><br />If Beaver Dam isn't too far away for you, I'll do it for a 12-pack. The other remedies end up costing about the same once you figure labor and welding. The skeg guard is faster, just requires a few holes. The skeg repair is stronger and thinner to slice the water better.<br /><br />In our neck of the woods, the water that collects in the hollow skeg guard freezes and expands the skeg guard. If you go that route, take it off each fall or fill the void with silicone.

Re: skegguard or new skeg ???

Its gotta few nicks in it, if i can get it bent straight id be happy, if the nicks carry into a crack id prob just get the skeguard... <br /><br /><br />im sure the lowerunit has to be removed to get a nice straight skeg welded on heh? but really who can weld one on straight? im sure there are some tools, but i would think the heat from the welding would warp the aluminum... <br /><br />Thanks for your advice, especialy on the silicon .

Re: skegguard or new skeg ???

If the skeg is still below the lowest swing of the prop,and doesn't affect handling,why not leave it alone.<br /><br />If it needs straightening,try what WillieBWright says.<br /><br />If it breaks off,have an aluminum piece welded on. Then presure/vacuum test the gearcase for seal leakage.<br /><br />Skeg Guards may be easy fixes,but the next time you hit bottom,the stainless steel guard has little give,and the brunt of the hit transfers to the lower unit case as well as the exhaust housing.They cost lots more than the skeg fix.<br /><br />DHP

Re: skegguard or new skeg ???

It definatly pulls bad, my arm gets quite the workout keeping the boat going straight.. <br /><br />it happen at the end of the season so i really didnt think of fixing it until now..<br /><br />Still wondering what kinda shop will weld skegs and if i need to take the lower unit off..

Re: skegguard or new skeg ???

Try a metal/steel fabrication shop.Somewhere they do welding.If it's bad,pull the lower unit.They can weld better with it on the bench.Drain the oil out,leave one lower unit plug out so pressure doesn't build up.<br /><br />DHP

Re: skegguard or new skeg ???

I have bounced SkeGards off of rocks at 30mph. No damage. <br /><br />I put them on any outboard I have, damaged skeg or not.<br /><br />Anything you hit hard enough to damage the foot would have torn it off anyway.

Re: skegguard or new skeg ???

Bent skeg has nothing to do with boat 'pulling'. Adjust the torque tab in the direction the boat pulls in small increments until helm is neutral with boat at a high power setting (>4000 RPM). Done!

Re: skegguard or new skeg ???

I have a gent that does my skegs for me. Does a sensational job. Takes the blank and cuts off what's needed and welds the new one on....straight. All I have to do is finish the smoothing and filling in any nicks and paint. A welder who knows how to weld aluminum, will do it right.<br /><br />And JB is right.....I got a SkeGard on my 90. have hit a few things with no problem.

Re: skegguard or new skeg ???

"""Bent skeg has nothing to do with boat 'pulling'. Adjust the torque tab in the direction the boat pulls"""<br /><br />im willing to place bets ive adjusted the torque tab, (thats that fin above the prop right?) might as well take it off.. <br /><br /><br />the one on my buddies 300hp yamaha spins in circles even with lok-tite. --> http://www.hawgeyes.net