'56 30hp shift rod o-ring

I am resealing the lower unit of my '56 30 hp and I'd like some guidance on removal of the o-ring on the shift rod. When looking down on the lower unit with water pump removed, the location seems to be waaaayyyy down in there with limited access. Anybody have any tricks in getting the old one out and/or re-installing the new one. I have the OMC manual that covers that year, but there's no reference or guidance to this.<br /><br />Thanks in advance.

Re: '56 30hp shift rod o-ring

There is a tool made for this. The tool to take the brass guide out is a steel rod about 5/16" in diameter turned down to a 1/4" for about 1" of length on the end. The guide is driven from the bottom of the gearcase out the top. The tool to install the guide is a rod about the diameter of the guide, also turned down to a 1/4" on the end. The 1/4" turned down portion of the installer keeps the guide from being battered when driving the guide in.

Re: '56 30hp shift rod o-ring

Wasn't aware of the guide. I am just wanting to replace the o-ring the rod goes through that seals out the gear oil. Does this brass guide need to be pressed out to install the o-ring?

Re: '56 30hp shift rod o-ring

a quick trick is to run a 5/16x18 tap down the bushing. then itstall a 5/16th bolt in it and use a 1/4 rod or long pin punch to knock it out. carefully clean the poacket, install a new washer in the bore. coat the OD of the busing with perfect seal or adhesive M and install the oring in it. you can drive it in place with a socket or draw it in place with a 1/4 piece of all thread some nuts and a plate. the key is not to distort the busing bore and dont dislodge the oring when knocking it down. you will actually find the shift rod fits slightly tighter after threading it .<br /> I have found the OMC tool does not work well on worn busings or those held in by saltwater corrosion.<br /> occasionally you will drive the tool through the bushing.

Re: '56 30hp shift rod o-ring

Here is a cheapo tool that also has other uses on small outboards http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5469 $17.00 It comes with a tapered tool that has twisty screw-like flutes on it. I think it's a dent puller. You screw the tool into the bushing lightly but firmly enough to lock it in and then tap tap it's out. This is similar to rodbolt's suggestion. I have used it many times without damaging the bushing. If your lower is corroded use PB or Corrosion Block top and bottom of bushing and leave overnight minimium.

Re: '56 30hp shift rod o-ring

Some of the bushings are installed so deep that the tap trick won't work without an extension of some sort. 5/16" threaded rod (or a long bolt, or just plain 5/16" rod) works fine for them, though there might be a lot of corrosion build up between the aluminium and where the shift rod runs, reducing the diameter there. That will need to be cleared with a drill bit or the threaded rod chucked in a hand drill.<br /> <br />On the right there you see the bushing with the relief for the seal. I really don't see any way of getting the seal out through it without removing it. I've had some that were a real pain to remove even with heat, and others that came out like butter. Probably the ones that were a problem didn't have sealant.<br />This question seems to get asked a lot and there's lots of excellent information in this post.

Re: '56 30hp shift rod o-ring

paul.<br /> try a 8 pt socket with a ratchet and extension on the tap .<br /> works like a dream and on the soft bushing the tap will pass right through. 5/16ths is .312". the minor thread dia is about .o62" smaller. tap drill size for 5/16ths 18 is .257". so the hole dia is already about perfect

Re: '56 30hp shift rod o-ring

I've done it on those easy-to-get to ones and it worked real slick. And that brass cuts so nice. <br /><br />8 pt sockets huh? I think I turn about three square drive bolts in the run of a year. But hey, nothing like having the tool for the job.

Re: '56 30hp shift rod o-ring

I just did this last week, and it's my 3rd time. First time I didn't know what to use, so I took a 1/4 inch bolt, (about 4 inches long, but doesn't matter) and grinded the hex head down untill it was about a 5/16 circle. I then pass this through the housing side of the bushing, then tap it out (tap with a hammer, not tap as in threaded). Works great for me, and it's free. btw, I have to hit the head of this grinded bolt with a long punch or something. If you clean out the housing real good, you'll see that the aluminum's hole is about 5/16, and the hole in the bushing is about 1/4. Just make sure the grinded bolt head will fit into the aluminum, and not be tight.