55HP Upper Crankshaft Seal Replacement

I have a '68 55HP TRL-10R Johnson outboard that I am trying to get back in running order. After removing the flywheel to inspect/set the points, I noticed that one set of points were wet with oil, plus a few other items. I removed the armature plate and discovered what appeared to be oil getting past the upper crankshaft seal. Any tips/tricks to remove/reinstall a new seal without further disassembly? My Clymers manual doesn't go into much detail on this.

Re: 55HP Upper Crankshaft Seal Replacement

Welcome!!<br /><br />There are 2 ways to remove that seal.<br /><br />1- With the crank removed you can slide the bearing off. Just knock it out and press in a new one.<br /><br />2- Take it as it is now and have the dealer use the special tool to remove the seal. It takes about a minute. Then you can install a new one.<br /><br />I'm partial to method #2 unless the motor is already apart.<br /><br />The special tool is a cone with a taper on the end of the cone. There are grooves cut in the taper. You screw the cone down to grab the seal lips form the inside. Then there is a screw in the center of the cone that you screw down against the top of the crank to pull the seal out.<br />(Whew! We coulda had it out by now! But I type slow)

Re: 55HP Upper Crankshaft Seal Replacement

Dhadley, thanks for the welcome! I must say this forum is very informative. The situation I have right now is that the motor is still on the boat. I'm in the process of restoring this boat that my father-in-law built in the late '60s (Glen-L Ski-Tow). The engine for all pratical purposes is in good "mechanical" condition, but age alone has taken it's toll on some items (i.e. seals). I guess I was hoping there was a method to remove the seal (such as tapping machine screws into the steel seal body to pull it out with). However, last thing I want to do is make one problem turn into another (so I will check with one of my local dealers to see if they can help).<br /><br />The weak link (in my mind) on this engine is the electrical, as the material used then for insulating conductors has not held up well (this was a pretty low time engine, boat stored inside). Had to replace the main harness, rectifier, etc. because of wire insulation degradation (which then led to conductor corrosion). Not sure how electrically this thing could have run in recent years (but it did). I've talked to others that have had engines of this type that mentioned the same thing too (harness wires crumbled if handled too much).<br /><br />Anyway, I'm getting there. Did the electrical, just finished with the cooling system, now onto the ignition. I'm trying to do the right things one step at a time, based on information I have received from this forum (and the manual I bought). Fortunately (or I guess unfortunately) this has allowed me to also discover other items I may have otherwise overlooked. When the motor is done, then on to the boat. To you and other contributors on this forum, keep up the good work.