1980 Johnson 35 (J35ELCSM) will not attain wide-open throttle. Bought in December '04 with boat and had not been run on lake for 2-3 years (?) but was run in barrel. As of this writing and several fix attempts and trips to the lake later, the engine runs much better but still will not attain WOT. Although it no longer shuts down/cuts off when reaching +/- half throttle, it will not do more than what I judge to be 1/3-1/2 throttle. It bogs and then slows to a speed below that attained just prior to the bogging down. If throttle is advanced only to "magic point" and not one whit further, it will attain the highest speed it is capable of at this time and maintain it. Will advance to full throttle, faster than I will rev it to, in neutral with no load. It also seems to have a miss because the motor jerks side-to-side slightly (like it's shaking its head "no") both at idle and under load and doesn't seem to run as smoothly as it should be capable of doing. Even when early morning is cold, engine starts immediately and idles rather well with a slightly advanced throttle. Engine does not appear to be overheating since I can hold my hand for varying periods against cylinder head and walls immediately after running test trials on lake or in barrel and tell-tales are working. No powerhead noises identified but there are slight "clinking/clanking" noises seeming to come from the area of the flywheel.<br /><br />Based upon posts found on this forum and with Johnson manuals, I have done the following:<br /><br />Replaced original, new NGK B7HS spark plugs with Johnson manual specified plugs, Champion L77J4, and checked compression to determine whether or not motor might be worth working on (read spending good money on). According to MY compression gauge, one cylinder has 135 psi compression and the other has 136 psi. A really good/expensive gauge might show a greater disparity and will buy one when I can find a GOOD oneany suggestions? Although tickled spitless at the compression readings, I hold them suspect because of the motor's age and the cheap gauge. The original owner was, however, a dealer and second owner did not keep it very long "because of failed health". Uh-huh. Yeah buddy. I don't buy unseen land in Florida, either, unless I want to open an alligator farm. I have been known, however, to buy a couple of alligator farms in my time......<br /><br />Replaced the motor-side ignition wiring harness which was badly spliced here and there and mostly burned up and would crumble in your fingers, including copper wire. Because of expense (~$200) and unknown condition of the motor, I fabricated my own harness using one gauge larger on all wires to reduce possibility of resistance-heating within wires except for the largest wire which was replaced with same-size. My harness would pass for a factory harness except for a real Johnson guru who might note the wire color and main plug differences. Took eight hours to fabricate but fit exactly and engine fired and ran immediately upon trying for the first time.<br /><br />Full overhaul of carburetor with Sierra kit including new float and float needle and seat. I both soaked the carb and parts in cleaner and blew out with compressed air and then used spray carb cleaner to clean all channels and jets and ensure flow-throughthree times. I'm a belt, suspenders, and chair manI found that if I put on my suspenders and belt and then sit down in a chair, my pants will NEVER fall offassuming I didn't forget to put 'em on in the first place. Hate gettin' caught with my pants down. Adjusted float to specifications in both positions. Replaced the slightly nicked, low-speed needle with a new Bombadier/Johnson needle.<br /><br />Replaced all four fuel lines in motor2 large and 2 small, one of which was the fuel return line. Don't know what the other 1/8" hose was but replaced anyway because both small hoses were original equipment. Used good wire ties on small hoses and secured to point that hose won't rotate on fitting. Used good quality steel circle clamps (screw-type) on the two large hoses tightened until hose will not rotate on fitting. I read about unwanted gas aeration on some forum posts.<br /><br />Checked tank pick-up to make sure it was clear and replaced tank fitting and tank-to-motor fuel line and bulb with new. Also bought a new, metal gas tank but have not used it because paint over-spray inside will flake and requires cutting my new fuel line to install an in-line filter. That's what you get for nearly $100 these days.<br /><br />Installed new Bombadier/Johnson fuel pump with new interface gasket. Wow, $$$!<br /><br />Installed new silencer-to-carb gasket.<br /><br />Adjusted ignition/fuel synchronization with throttle rod per manual instructions. Local guru said I had done it correctly but then he sent me on a wild-goose chase explained later.<br /><br />My timing light will not work on this motor with specified plugs so have not checked timing.<br /><br />Both plugs are firing and present a steady spark glow when revved using a gadget in-line to test for spark. No arc-ing seen when running motor in barrel at any speed at night in pitch dark.<br /><br />Based upon the recommendation of a local guru, reopened the carb and recleaned the medium- and high-speed components with spray Gumoutfull can. All tubes, cast channels, jets, etc. are clear. He suggested cleaning tubes and jets with proper-sized wire (clean, not ream). I did that to the small tube but not to the jet behind the bowl drain screw because it was unnecessary and potentially damaging. All to no avail. Nothing was amiss to start with.<br /><br />That's it to date. Other than a vacuum leak in some area that I'm not aware of (hidden) all I can deduce is that either there is a weak electrical component or it needs some serious synchronizing/tweaking by a very experienced mechanicwaaay outta my league. On an automotive engine I might suspect spark advance problems. Closest dealership to me is a 130-mile plus round trip away so can't just run out for parts, advice, or service.<br /><br />It's now up to you folks what I try next. Crawling under the flywheel is not my idea of fun because I dislike and am not really proficient/comfortable with electrical problems although I know enough about the work to be sufficiently dangerous. I will take it on, however, and can follow good instructions. My experience is primarily with automotive mechanics for 40+ years and none of my cars/trucks has ever seen the inside of a mechanic's garage, except for wheel alignments, in all that time......just to let you know my "level of inability".<br /><br />Suggestions please and thanks for your "figgerin' on it time".<br />Oldetymer
