1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

I just bought a 1969 Evinrude 18 HP Fastwin.<br />Is 50:1 the right mixture for this motor?

Re: 1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

Yes it is. 87 octane gas and TC-W3 rated outboard oil.<br /><br />Welcome to Iboats!

Re: 1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

yes it is.

Re: 1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

Thanks. I also ready from the forums that unleaded gas is fine, 87 octane with TC-W3 rated outboard oil. Am I right?

Re: 1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

Yup. 2-strokes are happier without lead than with. Never did anything for 'em.

Re: 1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

Thank you. It's nearly springtime in East Tennessee and my 9 year old son is ready to go fishing...and so am I!

Re: 1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

One of the neatest rigs I ever saw was a round-about '69 Fastwin on the back of what looked like a 16' long Cape Islander built out of a old utility hull. It was all to scale so I guess the fellow driving it must have been pretty near sitting on the floor for his head to fit in the deckhouse.<br />The fellow running it was having a gas!

Re: 1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

I've been out fishing with this motor several times now and it is really hard to get started the first time. After my arm and shoulder are sore it finally starts, but it runs rough and won't idle at all. I also think it's using more gas than it should and doesn't have quite the power I expected from an 18 hp. I put new plugs in it and ran some carb cleaner through it, but I'm finally admitting it needs a tune-up. I am hoping I can do it myself with the repair manual for reference. Should I buy just the tune-up kit or should I also get the contact set and condenser as well? Or does the tune-up kit include the contact set and condenser? Is there anything else I should consider doing while I'm at it, such as the water pump? It's spitting a nice spray of water out, but I wonder if it should be putting out more of a stream.<br /><br />Thanks,

Re: 1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

I would rebuild the carb and change the impeller. A good manual will guide you. If you have any trouble just post here.

Re: 1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

A spray sounds right for that engine, but a healthy cooling system will ensure a long engine life. That is to say, neglect it at your own risk. I try to change out water impellers every other season as preventative maintanance, and if I don't know the age of the one that's in there I replace it on principal. They're around $15 each, and swapping them isn't a big task if it's been done recently.<br />There's a few different tuneup kits - a points & condensor kit, a carb kit and a water pump kit. There's a few more kits but they're really for specific tasks, like a gearcase reseal kit, but those are more for specific problems.<br />I habitually cheap-out on the ignition tune-up kit. I have the proper equiptment to test condensors (they hardly ever present a problem anyway) and simply fileing the points with folded ultra fine grit sand paper and re-gapping them normally restores their operation. Usually troubles with the ignition system come from cracked ignition coils - that sort of problem will usually be self-evident when you pull the flywheel. Also, if the armature plate is loose at all, follow this excellent fix by Joe Reeves: Joe Reeves' excellent Wobbly Armature Plate Fix. <br /><br />The carb kit is a good idea whenever you have rough-running problems. Some tiny passages like to clog up and a simple (harsh chemical) cleaning & rebuilding (replacing worn seals and such) usually restores their function.<br />A manual is a must. There's another simple tuning procedure called 'Link & Sync' that should be performed. This syncronizes the carb's butterfly valve opening with the spark advance. It's simple and I find critical for easy starting - almost as important as having a nice strong ignition.<br /><br />None of these tasks are a particularly big deal. The ignition system will require something to pull the flywheel (a beefy harmonic balancer puller works well) and a torque wrench (w/ helper preferably) to put it back on.<br />Carb kit: 396701 (dealer), 18-7222 (aftermarket)<br />Water pump kit: 379766 (impeller only) (382468 for entire pump including housing), 18-3377 (aftermarket - new impeller, wear plate and grommet)<br />Ignition tuneup kit (2 points, 2 condensers): 172523, 18-5002<br />Hope this helps!

Re: 1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

Thanks for the info. I'm going with a carburetor kit to start with. Sounds like that's the main problem. The guy I bought it from said he had cleaned the carb. I think the cooling system is okay. It's not getting hot at all and I usually only run it for short distances. The ignition tuneup sounds like a bit more than I want to tackle on my own, and may not be necessary. I'm also getting the repair manual. I may be back with more questions. Thanks again.

Re: 1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

like Paul said you should change the impeller if its not been replaced in awhile they can work fine one minute and the next minute your motors gone

Re: 1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

Okay. Thanks for the warning. I'll go ahead and do that as well.

Re: 1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

I have a 60's model evinrude 9.5 hp outboard. How do I find the model number and then part numbers for a carb rebuild kit and part numbers for the points? I would also be interested in a manual for it.

Re: 1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

Hiya,<br /><br />I bought a 70 25 hp last spring... on mine, the choke spring had a notch worn in it, so even if you pulled the choke knob, it was hit and miss whether the choke actually closed or not. I couldn't find that spring locally, but I just took it off and straightened 1 coil out of it and re-used it. <br /><br />So, you might check that your choke is working right and that the little spring that activates the choke butterfly is OK.<br /><br />Good luck (both with the motor and the fishin')<br /><br />Brent<br /><br />rcooke... you should start a new thread/topic for your own Q.. model # should be stamped on a plate on the side of the transom bracket, might also be stamped into a quarter sized frost plug in the block.

Re: 1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

Thanks, I'll check the choke spring. It seems to be flooded sometimes trying to start it. I pull the choke knob and keep pumping the fuel bubble and then finally start smelling gas and realize that it's flooded. Then it is more likely to start with the choke off and the throttle pretty high after letting it sit for a few minutes.<br /><br />We had a 25 hp circa 1970 Johnson on a small aluminum boat when I was a kid that went fast enough to ski behind. It came off the transom with my uncle driving and fell into about 100 feet of water. He held onto the fuel line until it finally snapped and it went out of sight still running.

Re: 1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

I can't get the flywheel off. I put the puller on and increased the pressure but it didn't move. Is there something I'm missing? I took out the bolts holding the outside gear on and tried it again and that's when the one of the screws on top of the flywheel stripped taking out part of the threads. Any ideas?

Re: 1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

That's not a good sign. If you pulled the puller screw out of the hole in the flywheel, it's pretty well stuck, apparently. When you do get it off, you'll probably need to take it somewhere and have the hole helicoiled.<br /><br />Now, one of the reasons this could be stuck on there is a partially sheared woodruff key, or even a completely sheared one. When these shear off, they can virtually weld the flywheel to the crankshaft. <br /><br />As for getting it off at this point, I'm not sure what to suggest. <br /><br />Heat may be required on the flywheel, but...if you heat it up, you do run a risk of heating the crankshaft, too, and ruining the upper crankshaft seal. That can be replaced, of course, but it needs a special tool.<br /><br />If you do decide to try heat, keep the flame away from the crankshaft. Instead, head the flywheel about 1/2-3/4" away from the crankshaft, and heat it evenly by moving the torch around the flywheel. If you have the puller on the flywheel (you may be able to use a longer screw and bypass the damaged section of the hole, after running a tap through it), apply about 50 ft-lbs of torque to the main puller screw to preload the puller.<br /><br />When you've heated the flywheel enough, the flywheel should pop off a bit when it releases. <br /><br />I can't guarantee this method, but it should work. Just try not to heat the crankshaft...just the flywheel and keep heat away from the outer part of the flywheel.<br /><br />Best of luck!

Re: 1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

That sounds nasty! It may indicate the woodruff key is part-sheared.<br />My next step would be to (carefully!) drill out and retap the bolt-hole to the next size up - 5/16-18. That's unless I misunderstood you and the screw's threads stripped rather than the flywheel.<br />The reinstall the puller, tension it up and follow some of the suggestions here:<br /> Click here.<br /><br />EDIT: CATransplant beat me to it. He giving you some good suggestions!

Re: 1969 Evinrude 18 HP gas & oil

I looked at the key inset last night wondering if that was the problem. I couldn't tell if the key was in it or not. There are still some threads left near the bottom of the hole. I'll try again tonight with 50 ft-lbs of torque, heat, and some light tapping around the top and see if that works.<br /><br />Thanks,