I am new to the site. I was a big fisherman until I got into working on outboards. I repair and collect pre 70's outboards, I have over 20 J/E's outboards and 2 mercurys. My oldest is a 1930's 3 horse evinrude and my newest is a 1971 9.5hp. I am relatively new to outboard repairs and I know everyone has their own little tips and tricks that they use to make life easier in the process of working on an outboard. I was hoping that with this thread everyone could share the little things they do, or some of the tools they have made to get the job done.
On some of the bolts, located in areas hard to reach with a wrench or socket, take a small hacksaw and cut a slot into the head of the nut so you can use a screw driver.
To clean out some of the finer holes in the carb use a fine wire.
The hole drain in the lower unit likes to get clogged, so take a fine long drill bit and drill out the crap, but be careful not to drill into the housing. just take your time.
In some of the carbs, i believe this is for the late 50's E/J's the packing for the rich and lean adjustments wear out and spin as you try to rich and lean your motor. you can repack it by taking a strip of aluminum from a pop can and wrap that around the packing then take a punch and punch it back into place. It should fit nice and snug.
You can go to the local dentist and they will give you their used and old dentistry tools for free. These are nice for getting junk out of tight spots.
That's all I can think of for now, anyone got anything to add.
Also I wanted to mention this site is great with lots of good info.
Nice tips, you won't get much response in this forum, its way too high traffic with very little banter, the other forums are slower paced.
I'm an amateur machinist, dangerous with a welder too.!
Some of the machinist websites are great for mechanical tips.
Ever round off a philip head screw?
cut a slot with the dremel and impact screwdriver it out.
JB weld works like magic when you need to repair aluminum, especially areas that have corroded away.
Grease works well to hold things temporarily, like a screw on the tip of a screwdriver.
Almost all the OMC colors back into the mid 1970s are still availlable from BPR in spray cans, I just got a can for my 1975 Johnny 9.9hp, perfect color match too!.
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1932 Muncie OB-1A
1947 Merc KE-4 Rocket 7.5 hp
1949 'Rude Zephyr 5.4hp
1954 Johnson CD11 5.5hp Seahorse
1975 Johnson 9.9hp Seahorse converted to 15hp
2hp Tanaka
2hp Honda
I posted this previously in response to getting out stuck bolts without snapping the heads off.
Next time try some Kroil Penetrating spray and use an impact gun set to low torque, and spin back and forth until it frees up. I learned this the hard way many years ago after I broke about a dozen bolt heads off while overhauling an old 79 Merc 115. When I overhauled my 1.6 L Sea Drive I used the Impact gun and an awesome product called NCH Penefree (No Longer Made). Kroil is even better it can penetrate into a space as small as 1 mil (WD-40, PB Blaster don't even come close). It took a little time but I did not snap a single fastener and some were really stubborn!
The object is to get the product into the space between the bolt and block and apply shock to it while not applying the king of toque that would snap the head off. Keep respraying and applying shock and it will penetrate deeper and deeper. With patience you should be able to get every bolt out without breaking or stripping (remember to only use six point sockets, if you don't have one them go out and buy it before you start breaking the motor down) Know that just horsing on a ratchet or breaker bar will snap these stuck bolts EVERY TIME.
I was told that you can mix 50/50 acidtone (sp) and transmission fluid and it would work just as well as acidtone.
I don't quite understand. Acetone is a fast evaporating solvent/cleaner and Transmission fluid is an oil. You won't be able get things real clean with the oil mixed in.
The 50-50 mix of acetone and atf works a hundred times better than pb blaster or wanna be
The NCH Penefree was the best stuff I've ever used. Kind of smells like dry cleaning fluid. When I googled it while looking for it I found a forum that was discussing it, they mentioned there it was no longer being manufactured but a product called Kroil was even better. I'm going to have to get some because Penefree was the best stuff I'd ever come across and if this tuff is better...
Kroil? No kidding. I had never heard of it til today. Today, my mechanic used some on the sticky key locks on my Jeep and said it was the best stuff going! Where can it be bought?
Please become familiar with our SEARCH function. We have over 2.3 million posts and many of the topics (and tips ) have been covered before. You will discover we are quite a great group here and probably the most important things are to understand...... some of our "newbie" members may have never picked up a tool before and some are skilled at the highest level.....
We like to avoid band aid repairs here and do things the right way. Safety is usually our number one concern and if you check our iboats store.... we are hard to beat.
Once again welcome.
BTW have you looked at the great tips, instructions and links we have collected over the years?
__________________ "When you see yourself doing something badly and nobody’s bothering to tell you anymore, that’s a very bad place to be. Your critics are your ones telling you they still love you and care." Randy Pausch 1960-2008 The Last Lecture
Kroil was even better. I'm going to have to get some because Penefree was the best stuff I'd ever come across and if this tuff is better...[/quote]
I have used Kroil and like it. The only thing I don't like about it is it's smell, it stinks to high heaven. I use PB blaster and heat, can't be beat....
To hold a nut in a combination wrench or socket, use a small bit of electrical tape to line the socket.
Use Nickle (nuclear grade) anti-seize it works better than copper.
Get a spark jump gap tester it is the best diagnostic tool for outboards.
A mapp gas bottle on you propane torch will make a hotter flame.
while using a ball joint kit (snap-on) to remove lower ball joint on a Ford pick-up front end, after driving the ball joint tool down as tight as it would go with impact gun several times, it just would'nt budge..... out of frustration , I picked up a four pound convincer , and gave it a smack on the edge of the lower control arm while still under pressure from the tool...and WHAM ...it dropped out quick and easy...
ever get a cyclinder head nut that requires a spanner wrench and it just won't work ? try using your air hammer with the dull point tool against one of the holes for the spanner wrench at an angle...squeeze easy on the trigger , and follow it around as it spins free... learned this replacing cartridges on McPherson struts...oh , and its not a bad way to torque the head nuts back on either... just squeeze easy on yer trigger
need to hold a bolt in the end of a socket to get it started ?...cut a fingertip from a used latex surgical glove (aprox from first knuckle down) ..slip it over the socket , and shove the bolt into the socket...
I have used bearing grease smeared into a universal joint to hold it in a certain position
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"Good judgement comes from experience, Experience comes from bad judgement"
Machinst magazine did a controlled test of all the popular penetrants , atf and acetone beat them all hands down.
Machine shops go through it by the barrel full.
Tips and Tricks
) have been covered before. You will discover we are quite a great group here and probably the most important things are to understand...... some of our "newbie" members may have never picked up a tool before and some are skilled at the highest level.....
1990 Bayliner 2002 Capri Cuddy /125 Force " Breaking Wind "
Linear Mode
