I think I discovered why the previous owner couldn't get the starboard side engine to start. When I purchased the boat and paid to get the engines running the dealer used a portable tank to start the engines for fear the gas was bad from sitting. In the process of getting some gas to look at I discovered that the port side fuel line primer bulb isn't working; when I attempted to pump some gas into a jar to check for water. The starboard side line works fine. I say the bulb because I was able to blow gas through the canister filter and the supply side fuel line provided a mouth full of gas
I haven't witnessed any water form in the jar of gas I was able to pump out (1/2 gal is all I recovered). I'm sure this doesn't mean the gas is good, but what else can I do other than have it filtered????
I'm goofy...I got the fuel line bulb to prime. I had air trapped in the line and it wouldn't allow it to prime..I guess. After I got it to prime I read somewhere that you are supposed to open the gas cap. It's working so I'll use the new fuel line and bulb as a backup. Any comments???
I installed a battery charger, replaced the live-well, strainer (plastic..the other two thru hull strainers are bronze and in good condition) this past Saturday. Not sure if Bayliner mixed bronze and plastic or the other two were upgrades.
I plan on installing new water pumps, stats, and run the engines this coming Saturday. I found this web site with water pump installation directions: [url="http://http://www.bassboatcentral.com/sttips.htm"]
If all goes good I will paint the bottom and outboards the following weekend. I'm ordering a new Bimini and should have it installed by the end of the month. I'll take progress picture and post.
Ok...The pumps are done. Had to redo the counter rotation side because I didn't shift the into reverse (with standard rotation you shift into forward when seating the drive shaft..) when I seated the drive shaft.
Regarding the pumps:
I get a steady stream from the port engine and pulses of water from the pee hose on the starboard. Any ideas what this may be? I plan on replacing the stats but I'm not sure where they are located. There are two 90deg hose fittings attached to a two screw flange at the top of both cylinders. Does this OB have two stats on each engine?
Regarding the engines:
I was happy to confirm the engines running status...they fired right up! I discovered a puddle of two cycle oil in the engine bay and traced the problem to a broken oil tank cap. I used epoxy to repair the cracked cap, and then noticed oil leak (very little) from under the cap. Looks like the gasket is missing and the cap was being over tightened to gain a seal..ergo busted cap! A $52 cap assembly because of a $2 seal I think I saved the cap assembly with the repair, but I will keep an eye on it after I get some new seals.
I'm on hold for a few weeks..Son's graduating college and Mom is spending like we don't own a boat... Help with the stats/water pulsing from the telltale would be appreciated...
Well my 1993 175 hp mecurs have 2 thermostats on each block at the top of the cylinder heads. Each stat housing has 2 screws for a total of 8 screws. I had 2 of the 8 screws wrench off (seized up, Bad News). The stats look shot; full of white powder buildup and coroded. The hoses, 90 deg fittings, and housing look good (no build up in them!). The cylinder chamber viewed from the stat opening looks clean! (clean cooling passages, Good News!).
Now I have to figure out the best way to remove the broken off screws. The screws broke at the head so I have plenty of vise grip area. I plan on soaking the screws with a high quality penetrating fluid. This is a minor issue if I can get the screws out without stripping the aluminum cylinder head. I believe I should heat the area to take advantage of the expansion difference between aluminum and stainless steel. The threaded hole will expanded more than the stainless and should make removal easier. Any comments???
Heated the bolt and sprayed with PB blaster. Allowed it to sit for 2 hours. Locked down vise grips heated again tried to loosen with no luck. Getting worried that this is going to turn into a big job! Will get a tig welder (where?) and try that method. I didn't like the vise grip idea because I've had mixed luck over the years gripping threads to remove broken screws. I don't have the long nose type vise grips, are they better for this task?
Here's what I did with the help of an experienced mechanic...We used the 1/4" of exposed stud and slipped a bushing over the stud. The bushing allowed us to find center. Using the center we drilled a .187 hole thru the stud. We then step'd up to a letter "F" drill (~.257") and drilled thru the stud (the stud was about 1/4" shorted then the tapped hole...easy to know your thru the stud). We used vice grips to crush the remaining stud and it practically fell out!
The mechanic said he would never use an easy-out in this situation! Too risky!
I got marine service estimates of $300 - $400 to make this repair...If all went well! One shop suggested I would need new head covers!!!!
I just started the engines to check for leaks and proper water flow thru the telltale/pee hole...No leaks - I was concerned about leaks because there was some erosion around the thermostat seat on the head cover. I wiped, with Permatex, any areas that looked eroded larger than the thermostat seal.
The telltale had a steady stream of water after about 4 minutes run time. I checked the water temperature and it was just above the 143 degF thermostat setting. These are 1993 175 Hp classics, and I can say for sure that with new impellers and thermostats there should be a stream of water from the telltale when hooked to a garden hose. I saw a lot of comments questioning whether or not the telltale should produce a stream of water when hooked to a garden hose. Had I listened to some that suggested the telltale is only reliable with the boat in the water I could have caused serious emgine damage: one of my engines produced a telltale immediately after starting and the other produced a pulsing water stream. One engine had both thermostats stuck in the open position and the other engine had one thermostat stuck closed and the other stuck partially open.
I could tell the bolts that were stuck would wrench off, but I'm glad I stayed committed to replacing the thermostats!!!!!!!
while your doing pumps and stats, you should do the poppit valves as well, most of the time thats a forgot'n. They're part of the cooling system and should be maitained as well. On my 2004 merc. it's located on the starboard side front, and you'll need to take the lower cowling off, but you only have to take off the starboard cowling. inexpensive part and should be done.
Received a new bimini top from Leta's. Installed and zipped right up! Can't believe how well those 93 curtains look/held up. Engines are ready but I did hold off on the poppet valves for now. Will finish some gel coat touch ups, paint the bottom, install new cushions from Canplus (near Leta's...also has bayliner patterns) and be in the water by 6/20!!!! Updated pictures on my next post...
Finished painting the bottom today on stands at the marina! Tomorrow is the big day. I plan on taking plenty of pictures, and will try to post them tomorrow evening. I got to say she looks awesome! I've had several compliments throughout the day.
Results from my second voyage wasn't as good!!! I attempted to tilt the starboard motor and snap! The two bolts holding the tiller arm broke. Can you independently raise or lower a twin outboard? Does anyone know why the tiller broke? I removed the steering bracket that attaches to the motor and had to heat and hammer out the two 5/6" screws. Will order new screws from from Seastar (hydraulic steering manufacturer). The fun part will be drilling out the broken screws on the motor's tiller arm.
I noticed that one engine was generating alot more exhaust bubbles than the other. Does anyone know why I'm having excessive exhaust bubbles coming from one of the outboards? I replaced the impellers myself could the pump tube be the problem?
I had something like this happen a few years ago. I noticed the arm was torquing wa too much and I stopped before it broke. It was making a popping sound so it was cloes. If memory serves me, the marina mechanic heated the arm and was able too work it free.
Yes, you can tilt one at a time. As far as the bubbles, mine do have slightly different exhaust characteristics but I never thought iof it as a problem. Are the engines at the same rpm when you notice the bubbling? I noticed that even a couple hundred rpm makes a difference.
Mine didn't. Now that I think about it, the connection near the starboard motor froze instead of rotating it like it was supposed to, When I moved the port motor the metal bracket started to bend on the starboard motor. Once the mechanic heated it up and broke it free, it worked from then on.
I think I understand now. The tie rod that connects the motors have ball joints on each end. The ball joint on the side that broke, siezed up. This is an important maintenance point. I will make sure I lubricate these joints (apply heat if needed) every season!
Thanks...I'm sure I will have more questions it is great to be able to discuss these issues with you!
Well I just got done un-freezing the tie-rod ball joint where the bolts broke. As I think back I remember hearing a popping sound while tilting the motor, but didn't know what to make of it. Some simple maintenance is all that was needed to prevent this problem.
The marina owner was kind enough to take my boat back out of the water. While its out I'm going to remove the lower unit and seal behind the water pump. The marina mechanic thinks the excessive exhaust bubbles are coming from an exhaust leak in back of the water pump (I didn't seal because a differ mechanic said not to). I also noticed that the prop hub is missing two of the three exhaust port plugs. The other engine has all three plugs...maybe this is the cause of the excessive exhaust bubbles???
Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502
I think I saved the cap assembly with the repair, but I will keep an eye on it after I get some new seals.
Help with the stats/water pulsing from the telltale would be appreciated...
Linear Mode
