Hi everyone.
I recently bought a used 2001 270 sc with very few hours on it.
It is a surprisingly spacious craft for it's size, and has a lot of equipment installed. It also seems to be a very well-built boat. Interior is of rugged and sturdy quality. Engine (4,2 D-tronic) and outdrive both seem to be working great.
From what little water-time I've had with it so far, my impression is that the hull handles the chops very well and is generally well-behaved for a boat this size.
But there have been some problems that needed tending to - a couple of cracked windows (acrylic lenses!!!), burnt out wiper-motor, etc.
One of the issues I am trying to resolve is with the instruments (made by Faria). In pioritized order I need to get the following working:
1) Fuel gauge. It's stuck on 1/4 full and won't budge. I am guessing it's a problem with the sender/float unit. But I can't seem to find the little bugger. Does anyone know where to look for it?
2) Tachometer - Does anyone have any experience with troubleshooting this?
3) Trim indicator is stuck. Have no idea where to begin looking...
4) Speed gauge - don't really need it, but would be great to have it working anyway.
Any help on these issues would be greatly appreciated
And, come to think of it - there is a button at the helm that says "Boost" - There's the sound of a relay clicking when I press it. Does anybody know what it does?
Well I can not help you other than thinking that the main power to your gauges is faulty. I do not know that particular Doral model at all. I hope some of the others can help you out though.
Welcome to iboats.
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1985 Doral 164 1985 140hp Johnson EZ loader single axle trailer all = a whole lot of family fun !!!!
Keep in mind all Fariah gauges are lifetime warranty. Their website has instructions on how to exchange them. You could start with that.
Is your speed gauge tube at the stern free of any debris?
Er -turned out it wasn't Fariah but Teleflex. My bad.
Anyway, after some more research I'm tending towards the following:
o Speed gauge tube is probably the culprit for the speedometer - can't inspect it at the moment, as the boat is on the water.
o The tachometer is probably faulty. I have measured the voltage with the motor running, and it has a steady 12v with no DC "drift" on the earth connector.
o Trim indicator - have no idea yet - probably need to inspect the senders on the outdrive. Winter project...
o Fuel gauge - haven't had more time to look into this, but apparently it's easy to chek the actual instrument - by earthing one of the wires that go into it. Have also gotten a lead on where to locate the float/sender unit, so will check that out.
If it is Bravo Drive, then there is a hole in the front of the drive toward the bottom that is for your speedo, and it commonly clogs. There is a trim sender on the side of the drive that shows the trim position on the gauge. The fuel sender is mounted on top of the fuel tank, probably near the fuel line.
The boost switch parallels your batteries to start the motors in case one battery dies.
Thanks for this information. Will investigate the trim sender and speedo tube thingy first opportunity I get (when it's out of the water). The fuel level sender should be accessible from the engine compartment if it's located near the fuel line(s).
If it is Bravo Drive, then there is a hole in the front of the drive toward the bottom that is for your speedo, and it commonly clogs. There is a trim sender on the side of the drive that shows the trim position on the gauge. The fuel sender is mounted on top of the fuel tank, probably near the fuel line.
The boost switch parallels your batteries to start the motors in case one battery dies.
hey Dpospres / all.
Got the fuel sender fixed this weekend. The "float arm" was simply stuck, and surprisingly easy to fix.
The rpm gauge has turned out to be a bit more bothersome. According to a mechanic I talked to who knows these engines (4,2 D-tronic), the RPM sensor (on the flywheel housing) is working properly. If it hadn't been, the engine would not have been running as it should, as it's signal is being used by the EDC to control the engine.
He stated categorically that the gauge itself is the problem, and also that Teleflex rpm gauge s shouldn't be used on these engines.
So I'll try a Faria rpm gauge tonight, and hopefully that'll solve the problem.