1994 Johnson 150 Tilt/Trim system

jwellcraft · #1 November 6th, 2009, 01:27 AM

Hi, I am having a problem with my trim system leaking down when trimmed up and running. The switches all work fine on the engine and the trim switch on the throttle just when I trim the motor up while running, it goes back down on it's own only if in the water moving. On land tilted up all the way it doesn't move because there is no pressure to pull it down, what could be the problem? And there are no signs of leaks and the fluid level seems to be fine. Also my trim limit switch wires are cut, where do they connect to?

Thanks

jonesg · #2 November 7th, 2009, 01:38 PM

You can get the johnson factory manual for that engine,
www.outboardbooks.com

it dedicates 46 pages to the tilt system alone.
Tilt limit wires go to the limit switch, not sure where the other end goes, I've never followed the harness.
The system might need bleeding.

jwellcraft · #3 November 7th, 2009, 06:03 PM

Thanks, tried to open the manual realease valve but no luck getting it open. The limit switch wires I know go to the limit switch but the others ends is what I was referring to. I have a Clymer manual for this motor, is that a good one?

tashasdaddy · #4 November 8th, 2009, 08:06 AM

you have an o ring leaking, fluid going past it.

jonesg · #5 November 8th, 2009, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwellcraft

Thanks, tried to open the manual realease valve but no luck getting it open. The limit switch wires I know go to the limit switch but the others ends is what I was referring to. I have a Clymer manual for this motor, is that a good one?

Nope clymer is confusing. You need the shop manual, its not printed by clymer or anyone else. Its $48 , service manaul, not owners manual.
www.outboardbooks.com

Use an impact screwdriver on the release valve, tap it with a hammer.
Sears sells impact drivers for less than $25, very handy for outboards.
Or use a big screwdriver, it needs to have a square shaft so you can put a wrench on it. I think its 45lbs torque so expect it to snap loose when you get it.

I'm going home to watch the pats beat the crap out of the dolphins,
I'll snag my shop manaul and look at that wiring diagram.
I'll take a peek at my engine , I have the same yr and HP.

ryoung · #6 November 8th, 2009, 06:20 PM

Pull the air box off the front of the motor and look for the blue wires with the white stripe. It might be obvious where they were cut and spliced to bypass the limit switch. If not, you will need to find the blu/wht wire coming out of the tilt relays and break that wire to connect in the limit switch. It would be a good idea to check your limit switch with an ohm meter to make sure it works before you wire it in.

Fl_Richard · #7 November 8th, 2009, 06:35 PM

9 times our of ten this problem is the manual release valve. Get it unstuck and cycle it a few time, tigten the screw and try it. This has worked for many other people. Get that manual release unstuck!

jwellcraft · #8 November 9th, 2009, 10:37 PM

Thanks alot guys, I checked the limit switch and it doesn't work so will get a new one. Yes I will have to get a impact driver but what are the chances of the manual release breaking?

jonesg · #9 November 10th, 2009, 11:12 AM

It won't break, if you've never used an impact driver try it on a few stuck screws first.

Its in there with 45in lbs, thats kinda tight so make sure it goes back tight.
Very tight.
Only loosen it a couple of turns, its retained anyway.

Loosen it, cycle the system a few times, tighten it again and check fluid level, use a support under the leg. Its a self bleed system.

jwellcraft · #10 November 11th, 2009, 04:10 PM

Got a impact driver but still no luck, I got the type you hit with a hammer on one end and I hit it pretty hard a few times and nothing. The valve head looks pretty old as well and the 2 ears on either side of where you put the big flat head screw driver seems to be opening up a bit now and might break. Guess I might need to drill this out now and use an easy out or should I heat it and try with the impact driver again?

ryoung · #11 November 11th, 2009, 05:06 PM

I can't imagine any good outcome from using the easy out. You will probably just end up with a broken easy out and metal shavings in the hydraulic system. Maybe spray it with penetrating oil and let it sit overnight and then try a couple more whacks with the impact. It might be worth taking it into the boat shop and let them have a go at it if that fails.

jwellcraft · #12 November 11th, 2009, 05:51 PM

Well I sprayed it with Rust check and left it overnight before trying with the impact, might use some other penetrant. I will continue to try before taking it anywhere for someone to just charge me a load of money and tell me it needs to be replaced. Will heating it harm anything else besides the o-rings on the valve? I will replace the valve once I get it out anyway with new o-rings. A dealer told me that loosening this valve was only for tilting the motor manually and this system is self bleeding.

Fl_Richard · #13 November 12th, 2009, 07:13 PM

I dont think that valve will come out as you loosen it. I think it's captive.

Heat is probably not good down there... Get a screw driver that fits tightly in the slot; this will maximise pressure across the entire screw. If it not a snug fit it will only concentrate it's effort on the edges of the slot helping it to widen.

jwellcraft · #14 November 13th, 2009, 11:05 AM

I used a pretty big screwdriver but the head was already strected open. The ears broke off and then I had to drill it and use a screw extractor which moved it a bit until that broke off in there. Now I need a new valve body and valve.