The digital depth finder has gone bad and I was wonder what everyone was using for a replacement. I talk with the dealer and he said the original setup was not available. The old would have to be completely replaced, cable and all.
My next question is I've have a soft spot in the floor on the corner of the ski storage hatch. Seems to be about 6 inches square that I can tell. Does the whole floor need replaced or can it be replaced in sections? How big of a job is it? $300 job or $3000 job? Never had to mess with a floor so I'm clueless on this deal.
For the depth finder I would guess that the dealer is probably right. Is it the factory installed unit? Do you know where the transducer is? If you are lucky you can replace it with a current equivalent unit in the same location with the new gauge in the dash.
For the floor: Is the ski locker cover itself soft or the floor adjacent to the ski locker? I guess I have to assume it is the floor itself. In 97 the 220 Horizon still had a plywood floor that was covered with fiberglass and carpet. It will require some significant work to replace it. You may get away with only replacing one portion of the floor but it will be a band aid fix. You will unfortunately need to probably take out all the seats and stuff that is attached to the floor and confirm there are no other soft spots. If you find anymore you might as well plan to replace the whole floor. Once you are that far you may find that you need to work on the stringers also. Depending on how much of the work you do your self the price range you mention is pretty close to the estimates you will get without actually digging into the project. There is a wealth of information in the boat restoration section here at iboats.
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RJP
1981 FourWinns Marquise 180 Cuddy, Mercruiser 165HP I6
1991 Larson All American 190 OB, 150 HP Evinrude
I checked the transducer with a meter and it showed open. I would have expected a resistance value which tells me that it's probably the problem?
As far as the soft spot, the door is fine but the floor by one of the corners seems to be the issue. In fact, it even effects the piece of wood that the door is screwed into. I've always been one that likes to just do it myself, but haven't ever worked with fiber glass. More than likely, I'll probably jump into this also. I guess I have a few months to read up on the do's and don'ts of boat repair. Thanks for you time...
fiberglass isnt that difficult to work with really.
I would take a good look at what is soft and cut it out with a jig saw. then see what you need to do with the wood. if you can cut and secure a piece that works then its just a matter of mixing the fiberglass and applying it. its messy as hell but you could always used bondo as well. Both are sandable and both hold up well.
plenty of videos at library or online to learn how to mix and apply. If its just a small area should be a $50 job and a weekend or two. the great thing about fiberglass if you screw it up you can always cut it out and start over.
Well...that's how mine started...would up fixing a spot by the helm seat in 2003 (1988 boat) and a couple of years later the whole area under the rear seats rotted through...took up the old deck in the spring of 2006 and found rotted stringers too...ripped out the old foam....had stringers fixed...re-installed foam...put down new deck...had it gelcoated in non skid to get rid of carpet that caused rot in the first place...and sealed all holes for seats...big job...but learned a lot...and I will NEVER EVER have another open boat with carpet...next one will be a composite boat for sure...
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1988 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra
98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 Selectrac
07 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7 Quadradrive II