Hooked....you are going to have to take us out for a ride to your favorite fishing hole when this job is done....oh I forgot, boat projects are never fully completed....we are enjoying the project ourselves...march on !!!
Back in the water!!!! Had to drill out the screws and install inserts. I could not have did this without the experience mechanic that help me...or I helped him. The screws lined back up with the 3-1/2" extension plate which is no small wonder considering this was drilled manually!
Now that I got that repair over with lets talk about the "shake down" run.
The engines performed great. I achieved about 5200 RPMs on both engines and 45 MPH (using GPS). She is a beast! When I push the throttle she leaps out of the water!
I discovered the speedometer didn't work because it was cut in half deep in the hidden gunwale passage. Fished a line and will pull a new pickup tube tomorrow. I noticed that one of the trim indicators isn't working, but I don't think I really need them. May replace the trim indicators with temperature or pressure gauges . Any thoughts?
I also learned how narrow my slip and the fairway is (looks huge from land). I was somewhat embarrassed trying to dock my boat. Have decided to pay an extra $150 to get in a longer and wider slip that is a single sided fairway (no boat to worry about crashing into on the other side). I figure it is a pay me now or pay me later decision!
Gas is up to $3.09 at my marina so I plan on getting 100 gallons this weekend (ouch) in case it continues to rise. The marina gets gas every week and a half on average. It was 2.89 yesterday before the refill.
Check your WOT rpms. Look to see what your engines need to be at @ WOT 5600 rpms? and make sure that boat is propped correctly. It will run peak performance and economically as well when its propped right, go stainless or X7 alloy type props. B.O.A.T. "break out another thousand" Enertia are beautiful props! But there are many others besides.Go out with a typical load ( fuel and weight when this is being done )and record your rpms, gpm (if you can), and speed @ 3000 ,3500,3800, 4000, 4300, 4500, 5000, 5500. and so forth all the way up to you WOT recommended rpms. If you can go over your spec, your under propped and if you are below that recommended rpm your over propped. You can Talk to Ken2 @ prop gods he knows his stuff, I just got done dealing with him and got my trohy propped right, and what a difference. The rule of thumb is 1 inch of pitch higher will loose 200 rpms and 1 inch in pith lower will gain 200 rpms take those performance no3 and post them for ken and he'll know what to suggest OH! you'll need to know what diameter and pitch your props are to start, they will be stamped on the prop it self either on the outide or inside where the prop nut is, talking to a pro. will save you dollars, so be where of friend s that know it all! ( I went through that myself )Being at the right rpm at WOT will make your engines happy at all rpms and last you longer and perform better, with fuel economy. I went from stock alumin. to stainless and should have done that along time ago. my boat handling and fuel economy has increased. I get on ave 1/4 mpg more per ml, with my 100 gal gas tank thats 25 more mls per tank! I'll take that! so instead of long range being approx. 200 mls , I around 225 per tankful, and you do understand that depends on the wind, the seas, and my hand on the throttle. Have fun, Boating and fishing is ADDICTIVE!
Well I'm not operational! The tilt issue turns out to be more serious than I thought. I have the dreaded frozen tilt rod. Anyone know the process for unfreezing the tilt rod. I'm not sure if the entire rod must rotate or just the supports that attach to the cylinder. Help....Please somebody!
Got it!...Small machinist jacks under each support then carefully load (do not bend the aluminum supports) and spray with PB Blaster. Checked for movement for 5 days (spraying each time..wrap with a rag to hold the lubricant). On fifth day I heated with an industrial iron (can reach 600 deg F) until the support hit about 250 deg F. Be careful that you insulate the cowl and all hoses from the heat (used fiberglass cloth and attic insulation). I completely removed the steering assembly from the cylinder and removed the nuts from the supports that attach to the rod (this would allow the arms to pivot independently if needed. Tapped with a hammer and the rods released (separately...the arms can pivot on the rod ends without the entire rod turning).
My arms were stuck in the down position and when free were in the up position (I guess those arms rotate +15 degrees). The arms didn't seem to be free by just trying to move by hand but when I reinstalled the steering assembly and all the nuts the rod rotated when tilting!
Patience and heat did the trick you can use different heat source but I wanted to stay away from an open flame. I was looking at a +$400 (Marina wanted to haul out of the water) repair bill if the rod didn't need to be replaced! Hope this helps the next guy presented with this problem!
So far so good...She likes 4000 RPMs (@35 MPH). I did notice that she lists about 2" to starboard (with my bilge and fish wells dry) at the dock. When running she's level and holds a heading without compensation. Is this normal?
The list is fairly normal. I try to level it out by strategically loading boat to overcome it. I find that this boat needs a lot trim tab adjustment as you run to optimize performance.
check to see if the freshwater holding tank is filled....my 2359 does that whenever the tank is empy...I have a 27 gallon tank and the weight will add up to help correct the list toward starboard (my tank is on the port side), I assume it would be the same way for a 2502
Replaced the rocker switch and pump for my trim tabs but I still can't get the port side to extend. I switched hoses and the port side piston works. I don't get it. Either the new pump is bad or I have a wiring problem. The pump runs when I press the port side bow down but no pressure is generated???? Any thoughts...
Another problem solved...Brian from Boat Levelers talked me thru a trouble shooting process. The wire for the starboard solenoid is bad between the switch and the pump (hidden where it can't be reached). Boat leveler is sending me a wire harness.
Well...I'm considering trading up for a 1997 Proline 2950 WA for $20K plus my boat. The Admiral wants AC! I want a WA. The boat has twin 225 Mecury OBs with 660 hours. It's in need of TLC...sound familiar! Anyone have any experience with Proline or this model.
Decided to keep my 2502 and had a great season with it. The vintage 1993 twin 175s have performed great!
Today I had a very interesting experience. While running I noticed water shooting up between the outboards spraying my starboard OB's air vent. I couldn't figure out what causing the problem but knew something wasn't right. I started loosing power on the starboard engine and panic at the thought of breaking down so far from home. For whatever reason I was afraid to stop and investigate so I motor'd on. Normally I run at 4000 rpm at 34 mph. The starboard at it's worst during this event only hit 3400 rpm. I let the port work at 4200, running at 30 mph. When I reached the river (Bush) of my home port I stopped to investigate. Water came pouring out of Starboard OB where the cables enter. I gave her throttle and she performed as normal, except for the water shooting up. I stopped and started a couple of times investigating this issue and suddenly the water spray stopped. I investigated and discovered my fish finder transducer was inside the boat/over the transom. My problem appears to have been from my transducer coming loose...WOW. I now have 3 screws holes below water..Is this problem for a few more weeks?
P.S. Told my son about my experience today and he mention that he ran the boat a week earlier and got the transom stuck in the mud (OB were up...low tide and he wasn't familiar with my marinas channel). That explains why the transducer was loose.
Hooked great posts. Thank for posting your project items, good bad or ugly they help many boaters that encounter similair stuff.
My props to you for taking on the challenges. The best part was out of now where your entertaining the thought of the proline and the upgrade.
Spoken like a true boater. Been there done that also but so far have held on to my 2002. Still have my eyes on a 2004 or newer 2502. Only time will tell.
Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502
Linear Mode
