Reed valve's

RedRustler

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 19, 2005
Messages
47
ok while running an engine on muff's.and it happens to get over reved which I am probrobly guilty of. and floated a reed and thus not letting<br /> the reed close properly.<br />with the reed not closing properly this would allow fuel back through the intake at the wrong time causing a backfire inside the crankcase which equals (THE SNEEZE)<br /><br />OK now i will get to the point i remove the #1 carb to clean it out agian incase i missed something.<br />While putting it back on i looked at the reeds for cracks and noticed that the upper set of reeds had about an 1/8 gap on them.<br />now in my experience's with two stroke motors that shouldnt be. So could this be my problem?<br /><br />and if it is what do you guys think about the carbon boyseen reeds?
 

bigbrownbuku

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 17, 2004
Messages
885
Re: Reed valve's

reeds should be seated the gap is a problem. <br />never used reeds that werent genuine so i cant comment on those.
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 1, 2003
Messages
20,066
Re: Reed valve's

I am with ben, an 1/8th gap is out of spec. all the specs on reeds are in your service manual. read them.
 

Ray Neudecker

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 25, 2004
Messages
1,656
Re: Reed valve's

If the reeds aren't seated properly, they will leak. This will result in the sneezing and a loss of power. This is very common with aftermarket reeds. The original metal reeds very seldom do this. On our race motors, we have found that the Boysens need to be replaced every spring. We have also found no gain from the use of the Boysen or other aftermarket reeds unless you are exceeding 7000 RPMs.
 

RedRustler

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 19, 2005
Messages
47
Re: Reed valve's

Well i pulled the reeds this morning and turns out the they are fine the gap i thought i seen was not a gap they are perfectly fine just looks like a gap from the carb side.<br /><br />I guess i was in denial from wanting to beleave that i have to pull the power head to change a seal.<br />I also talked to another mechanic and he tells me that the seals and bearings are pressed on. and says i would be better off getting a whole new crank assembly?
 

RedRustler

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 19, 2005
Messages
47
Re: Reed valve's

there is a skinny grey hose that comes from the #3 carb and it connects to a fitting at the top of the reed valve cage what is this hose for?
 

Ray Neudecker

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 25, 2004
Messages
1,656
Re: Reed valve's

Hard to imagine replacing the entire assembly for this problem. Most be a very expensive mechanic if he replaces entire assemblies rather than seals or bearings.
 

RedRustler

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 19, 2005
Messages
47
Re: Reed valve's

well i dont think he is confident of any of the machine shops around here with there hydrolic presses i dunno
 

RedRustler

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 19, 2005
Messages
47
Re: Reed valve's

i am wondering if i am missing something.<br /><br />Is the seal that we think is bad does that seal sit on the housing for the stator assembly? Or does that seal get pressed onto the crank?<br /><br />i cannot find the old housing to see if there was an o-ring that i may have forgotten. and the manuel does not show the picture very well
 
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