200 EFI Merc lower gear case removal prob

I am trying my hand at changing the water pump in my Merc 1995 200HP EFI Offshore. I purchased a Clymer manual and followed the lower gear case removal procedure (great manual btw).<br /><br />I removed all of the bolts, nuts, and miscell retaining devices. I double checked and I got everthing...but the darn thing will not come off. <br /><br />It does not seem to be terribly corroded, as the fasteners came off fairly easily. Clymer says on baddly corroded units, it may be necessary to hit it with a mallet or pry in off the upper housing!!!! I am reluctant to do that. I have used penetrating oil on all of the studs for a day or so, still no relief.<br /><br />I can actually move the lower gear housing a little and I can see light from the other side, so I do not think it is frozen. It almost seems like the gear splines are engaged and that is what is holding it up there, but the motor is in neutral and the prop shaft spins freely both ways.<br /><br />Do I really need to beat on this thing or pry it apart?????<br /><br />All help appreciated. I am relatively handy and this project looked to be straightforward...<br /><br />Dave

Re: 200 EFI Merc lower gear case removal prob

Double check the bolts, especially the one under the trim tab. If you think they are all off, then grap the skeg and jerk hard port to strbd. You should begin to see a crack/seperation developing. If not, look for the missed bolt. On a few occasions, I have seen the driveshaft stick, hence the mallet and prybar.

Re: 200 EFI Merc lower gear case removal prob

Thanks Buschcat. I am positive I removed all bolts, nuts etc...Took off trim tab and removed bolt hidden beneath it. Removed forward nut and two locknuts underneath cavitation plate and the two locknuts on the side. All per clymer...<br /><br />How much force can i use...i mean this thing is made out of aluminum...Can I hammer on the forward stud, as that seems to be were the thing is sticking..<br /><br />Dave

Re: 200 EFI Merc lower gear case removal prob

I would not hit the studs. If you see a crack big enough, put a screwdriver in it and pry gently. Pry a little alternating sides. Also, I like to pry around the center (driveshaft) area of the lower unit. I have also had luck on the "Side Bolt Studs" by sticking a prybar in between the cavitation plate, and the end of the stud (these are the side recessed nuts next to the driveshaft). Sounds like you may have a stuck driveshaft (dried out, or vaccum locked into the end of the crank). Do all your heavy prying in the center close to the driveshaft where the aluminum is thick.