Re: 1350 hard to start
Yup, sounds just like my old 1350. Anytime I thought it was flooded, you could dispell that by pumping up the bulb, giving it more choke and away it went!<br /><br />It might help to richen up the idle mix; run each mixture adj needle out CCW 1/8 turn. Also when you have it warmed up & idling in gear, adjust each needle for the best operation in the rich band of adjustment. You can tell if it's too lean because it'll bog out when you accelerate.<br /><br />Usually on the old Mercs, you have to find the compromise between clean idling (nice and lean) and being rich enough for smooth acceleration. You'll likely end up with a bit lumpier, rich idle, but that's what you'll need to make it less cranky.<br /><br />Another thing to check is to ensure that the choke shutters are closing fully and that they are not warped. Since the bottom carb doesn't choke, it's real important that the other 2 work right.<br /><br />You should have a spring in the outer screen of each carb; the screw should be tightened down all the way until it hits the carb body. The choke shutter should pull all the way into the outer screen until it is wedged into the face of the carb.<br /><br />If the choke shutters do not seal flat against the carb body, you're not getting full choke. It may be necessary to replace the shutters.<br /><br />Another thing that helps is to have the motor tilted back such that any fuel in the carb throats runs "downhill" into the motor, instead of running out the front. When you do as Clams described, pumping the bulb hard and blowing it past the needles, you're effectively "priming" the motor, just like later models without choke shutters and a primer.<br /><br />Speaking of that, I bet adding a primer and removing the choke assy's altogether would improve both starting ability and performance! Didn't they do this on the Last of the Inlines??<br /><br />HTH and enjoy your Big Merc..........ed
