there is one "sticker/plate".. its on tha tha clamp bracket.. tha serial number also will be stamped on tha motor at either tha welsh plug or tha port side block flange usually...
20"... '91 ta maybe '95. has tha small 1.78 ta 1 gearcase, plus cowl changed in '96... max from merc is 'bout 5800...
if its not commin' from a seal then where/what is commin' from???
besides, he has not confirmed jus what it is thats drippin'???.. looks like gear oil in tha pic but that don't mean nothin' ona computer..........
other than tha drain/fill holes tha only way in and/or out a gear case is a seal...
seal can sometimes give a false positive.. depends on where it stops in relation to tha sealin' surface if tha flaw if is very minor in either... there is absolutely no way for gear oil ta get to that weep hole.... except thru a seal....
he will get it figured out one way or another.... calf...
like i said, tha only way out for any fuel/oil burnt or unburnt is thru tha exhaust... it drips out tha bottom of tha gear case and/or prop.. not thru a weep hole/drain......................
its gear oil.. your motor oil is mixed with fuel.. easy ta see... put a match to it... there is absolutely no way for fuel/oil mix to exit except thru exhaust unless there is something major happenin' with tha motor... doubt it would even run... as for tha pressure test.. don't know on this...
leaky seal under tha water pump............. unburnt fuel mixture goes out tha hub with exhaust....... if bad enough it makes tha prop look nasty............
there is only supposed ta be one way for gear oil ta exit tha case and thats tha two drain/fill plugs.. if its leaking anywhere else ya...
understand completely.. lost my best friend 4 years ago myself.. jus happen ta be my 48 year old son........ i'm gettin' pretty short on tha clock also...
call 'em whatever ya want.. but if ya say "steel sleeve" most in their right mind know exactly what ya talkin' about................. its actually an iron alloy.
tha "XR4 is and was tha only 2.4 steel sleeve motor from production ever built".. it was offered in '91 and was a 2.4 but was in a "fat block" design and over lapped tha XR6 in '91.. from 1991 everything from production was steel sleeve motors (no more chrome anything) and in tha new design...
'91 (first year of tha "fat block") anything is gonna be a steel sleeve motor... '91 175 should be a bottom guided steel sleeve 2.5 motor......... would be almost tha same as tha XR6... different tuner and carburetors.... normal size (4 3/4") gear case.
can't go wrong with tha XR6 in my opinion... simple and very dependable (pre cdm ign.).. depending on year of tha XR6 as to which gear case it has... tha XR4 and first years of tha 6 had tha small case with 1.78 gears and tha only motors ta have a small case.. tha 4 being a tad weaker (smaller...
jan... you would be ahead by removing tha lower cowls also.. four 1/4 20 screws (either 3/8 or 5/16 head under neath tha cowl.. a little more work but well worth it for removing and replacing tha poppet.....
you should be able ta lift it enough ta put a little more on 'em jus in case.. a short socket ona torque wrench should go under it maybe.. they probably don't need much more.... jus be careful, those two tend ta break easily........
tha two in tha middle, (5/16) a little at a time, are 25 ft. lbs.... 3 (3/8) bigger ones on tha rear outside are 50 ft. lbs... tha 10 (9/16) nuts on tha studs are (my version) tight as ya can get 'em with a 6" 9/16 box end (sequenced, back and forth across clockwise, jus like a...
sayin' a little squirt is ok, most don't know what a wiff is, (maybe for tha experienced) is like givin' some a hand grenade with tha pin already pulled... jus a fact.
a little squirt or even a big squirt of pre-mix is ALWAYS SAFE...... jmo.
