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It is no doubt a 50's Johnson 30 HP motor (and a darn good motor as well).

I've been following this thread with hopes that someone would explain why "high octane" fuel is advantageous in some engines and "waste of money" in others. There have been rants about cars and...

Yikes! The rebuilder gave you incorrect information. If the valves are noisy on a rebuilt engine, they need to be adjusted properly -- and 1/4 turn to silence them is not the way to do it. If you...

Switches are off in the DOWN position. No problem there. ON-OFF-ON switches are off in the middle. Also not a problem. Don't need labels for that. You can determine what the switches are for by...

That is perfectly normal action and has nothing to do with an air leak or bad carb. You can prove this with a simple test. Fill clear tube, any size, with water put your finger over the end. ...

Owners manuals are generally next to useless since they do not have any technical information about the engine or the boat. They do contain a ton of safety information but little about the boat...

You start at one end of the system and follow the voltage until you lose it. So start at the input to the NAV/ANC light switch. If there is voltage there, you move to the output (load) side of the...

It probably has a 1000# axle so that kois the weak link.

Go to the electrical forum and use the search feature. This issue has been covered dozens of times and most threads contain troubleshooting and diagrams.

Choke working? Kill switch lanyard pulled? Remove the flame arrestor and pump the throttle? Fuel squirting into the carb.? Does the engine have spark? How's that for starters.

But how do we explain the early Optimax's and Fichts. Good motors until they broke, eh? Truth is, if you have to ask the question about ease of maintenance, then you need to take a look at the...

That should be a good indicator for you. But yes, the vast majority of serious boaters have on-board chargers, dual battery switches, and/or ACR's. Especially those with trolling motors or high...

Probably the MASTER for the house portion of the electrical system. With the switch on the left in the down position, what "doesn't work"? Then turn it on and see what does work. If nothing works...

Your preaching to the choir. I merely asked what it was "Exactly He Had" and explained what he needed so that once again we can get back on track. It is very apparent he didn't understand the chart...

You still have not answered the question about the reading you get. Do you read 12 volts on the meter? On which of the three terminals? and are the red and black wires from the trolling motor...

Do you have the lower submerged so the water inlets are covered? Can't pump water if the inlets are not fully submerged.

If one actually "needs" a new engine then the 2-stroke/4-stroke consideration comes into play and you buy whatever lights your fire. But if you buy a 4-stroke over a 2-stroke with hopes the engine...

Picture, model number, manufacturer name, part number. Something about the size of solenoid is not of much help. And you hijacked someone elses thread. You should have started your own. Your...

A three wire receptacle does not necessarily mean the boat is currently wired for 12/24 volt operation since who knows what the prior owner(s) have done to butcher the system. Three wire systems...

You just said "That's exactly what I have." What is it you "exactly have". Your original post indicated you plan to use 10 gauge wire that is running 20 feet from the POSITIVE post on the battery...

When are you actually going to try some of the things that have been suggested. How you install things may not provide the results you wanted so compromise is necessary.

No, it means the solenoid is working fine. What you did is "jump" the solenoid emulating the same action the key switch does when you turn it to START. So you either have a bad ignition switch...

To locate the solenoid, put your finger on the BIG RED battery cable on the POSITIVE terminal of the battery. Walk your finger up that cable to where it connects in the engine. That's the solenoid....

Your fuel consumption would not likely change with the new motor due to the reduced power and hence the higher throttle setting to maintain the same speed as before. My 75 HP Merc (2S) on a...

What size battery did you buy?

The same size wire as the unit currently has.

Leaky fuel pressure regulator or an injector that is staying open and dribbling fuel when the engine is off and/or spraying way too much when the engine is running.

For what purpose? If you plan to install this as a replacement for the existing pulse operated pump I hope you realize you are creating a potential "bomb". Unless that pump is wired through a...

An 85 - 120 HP gearcase will not work on your engine for several reasons. 1) It is physically impossible to bolt it up. 2) it has the wrong gearing, 3) is a large gearcase (OMC has small medium...

Center of gravity doesn't mean "middle of the boat" and because you put 50# up front doesn't mean you must put 50# in back. You need to determine WHY the boat is doing what it is that you don't...

You mentioned adding a depth finder. Be aware that any depth finder or fish finder with that capability will tell you how deep the water is AFTER you've hit whatever it is that you are now stuck on....

OIL: Any two stroke oil labeled TCW-3
COVER: One that fits
OUTSIDE STORAGE: See Cover

The reason we need to know what the wiring looks like "now" is because we don't know what the stock wiring was like, whether it has ever been changed and how it has been changed. There are many ways...

I again suggest you take a walk through the hardware section of your local Home Store, or right here on IBoats. There are dozens of "U" shaped brackets that can be pop riveted or bolted to the side...

If this boat has three or four wires running up front, it is wired for both 12 and 24 volts. So which is it. If there are only two wires running from the batteries up front, then we need to know...

If you are running the trolling motor from a marine "starting" battery that's what is killing it. Starting batteries are not designed to be deeply discharged. You still haven;'t answered the...

Remove one and see if it kills the engine. If it does, the answer to your question is yes. The answer will very likely be -- yes! The only way you would get by with just one or the other is if one...

The number is 10% different. Not 10 PSI.

Does the engine have the large battery cables (one red & one black) already attached? If they are, the RED cable goes to the COM terminal on the dual battery switch. The black cable goes to the...

What boat is sitting on this trailer. What sort of "stuff" do you add to the boat when you travel? A tire pressure gauge is a couple of bucks at any auto store. That may be the best "tool" in the...

Spraying seafoam or any other cleaning agent down the throat of a carburetor does nothing to clean the insides of the carb which is where the issue likely is (if it is a carb issue at all). SeaFoam...

Tachometers require +12 volts when the key is in the RUN position. It also requires a ground connection. The "S" terminal on the gauge is the signal from the engine charging system. It is a series...

I assume you are talking about securing the motor when it is in the stowed position -- correct? So why not post a picture of the issue since we can't see your boat. If you take a browse around the...

Your engine has hydraulic valve lifters to maintain zero lash. There are two ways to do this. 1) by feel, 2) engine running. But the fact remains, if the adjustment was properly set when the...

A velcro strap.

Just like an airplane, boats can have CG (center of gravity) issues. Sit in the back and see what happens. Doing nothing different doesn't solve the problem or at least provide other data to chew on....

Do you see a link or just an empty box where the picture should be.

The 12 volt side of a boat electrical system is much like your car or truck. With the engine off, any accessory being used is powered directly from the battery. When the engine is running the...

And that's why I said all is moot if this was not a true 2, 3, or 4 HP motor. They do currently offer a 2 HP motor running on 48 volts and that I believe is a true 2 HP motor as it's maximum current...

You don't NEED a dual purpose but it certainly is ok to use one since it is your only battery. If you've gotten by with the marine starting battery you had than one of the same type and same...