Re: 1995 Johnson 60hp Rough Start
The link/synch has little or nothing to do with your initial starting problem if the engine runs fine once warmed up.Initial start-up is an aquired skill.When the engine is restarted after being warm,it will not require the same cold start procedure.Doing so will cause the engine to flood.Depending on the time that the engine has been shut down since ran warm will dictate whether any or intermittent initiating of the fuel primer switch is needed to settle the engine to a smoothe idle.The roller as well as each carb link has lock screws that can be loosened and retightened for this critical adjustment.<br /><br />My cold start procedure is as follows: <br />1 pump up fuel primer bulb until firm<br />2 while pushing in on the key primer ,crank engine over until it fires.<br />3 once engine fires , you may have to intermittedly push in on the key primer until the engine will settle out and run un-assisted.It's a feel thing.<br /><br />Note- Pushing in on the key switch,initiates the opening of a fuel primer valve,not a choke flap,which allows fuel to bypass the carbuetors and flow directly to the intake chamber once the fuel line has been primed. <br /><br />Anyway,as far as the carb linkage is concerned,your engine has a throttle cam and roller that actuates all three carb flaps.This fiber cam has a factory scribe line on it.The linkage roller should align "exactly on center"with this line when the controls are in neutral and "just touching." If it is touching too hard ,the carb flaps will not fully close in neutral,if not touching at all or gapped,the throttle plates will open late in relation to the timer base advance.You're loooking to attain full closure on the each carb flap in neutral and full horizontal opening of each at full throttle position.Again,i don't think link/synch is your starting issue ,but being set properly will asssure maximum performance from your engine.
