HELP... Please read.....EVINRUDE 3602e 3hp 1966

bctrax

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Apr 15, 2006
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My friend had just bought this outboard motor (EVINRUDE 3602e 3hp 1966) and doesn't know how to operate it. Labels are worn on the buttons and he cannot figure them out. Anyone know where I can download some sort of guide or diagram showing me what this motor is all about?<br />Does he need to mix his fuel as well, if so, what mixture?<br />It almost starts but won't stay going?<br /><br />Help Help Help.........
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: HELP... Please read.....EVINRUDE 3602e 3hp 1966

Gas/Oil Mixture is 24/1 (1qt of 50/1 oil to 6 gal gas). A octane rating ot 87 is fine.<br /><br />Fill tank, open vent on top of fill cap, open fuel valve on side of engine, move throttle to about halfway, pull choke to close, crank engine.<br /><br />When engine fires, push choke in to open choke butterfly, then close throttle as needed.<br /><br />The carburetor may be fouled, if so, remove, clean, and rebuild it. A rebuilt kit is probably available at NAPA.<br /><br />Adjustments depending on which carburetor you may have:<br /><br />Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)<br />(J. Reeves)<br /><br />Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.<br /> <br />Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.<br /> <br />Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting. <br /> <br />Note: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.<br /><br />When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.<br />-------------------------------------------------- <br />(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs) <br />(J. Reeves)<br /><br />Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns. <br /><br />Setting the high and low needle valves properly:<br /><br />NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle va /lve adjustment.<br /><br />(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, wating for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting. <br /><br />(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting. <br /><br />When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
 

bctrax

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Re: HELP... Please read.....EVINRUDE 3602e 3hp 1966

Thanks for your much needed help.<br />Just one more thing though, On the motor there are some buttons, one is a slide which has start written underneath, another is for the choke, then there is one for fuel off/on, but then there is onebeneath the starting slide one which I don't know what it is used for. A dial button .<br />Can you tell me what that may be for?
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: HELP... Please read.....EVINRUDE 3602e 3hp 1966

Dial = Carburetor slow speed adjustment as mentioned above:<br /><br />Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)<br /><br />Sliding lever would be the throttle setting.
 

bctrax

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Re: HELP... Please read.....EVINRUDE 3602e 3hp 1966

Thanks once again, it is nice to have a site where people actually reply.<br />I am exhausted trying to find some site where I could possibly download any schematics or diagrams of my particular engine. Any Ideas??<br />In talking with some dealers, Ive been told so far that An overhaul kit for my carb might be difficult to find.<br />Will a carb kit for another model such as a 3802 be good for mine which is a 3602?<br />Please be patient as I am learning because this is my first outboard engine and it is old, I am a newbie to this....<br />Took my carb apart and cleaned it a little but still no go.<br />I prime the carb and the motor will run off the prime only.<br />I changed fuel lines but thats it so far.<br />I am unable to find the kit for the carb.<br />Also, could there be any other reason which would cause this reaction?<br />I can see fuel in the lines, but it seema as though the carb will not suck in the fuel?<br />Thanks in advance for your help and input.
 

Paul Moir

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Nov 5, 2002
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Re: HELP... Please read.....EVINRUDE 3602e 3hp 1966

I don't know what dealers you've been talking to, but the carb overhaul kit is available both aftermarket and from any dealer. The dealer/OEM number is 439071, aftermarket p/n is 18-7043. The OEM one is a little more expensive - around $20 or so. But it includes a new plastic float that replaces the troublesome cork one.<br /><br />The critical part of the carb rebuild is to pop off the soft metal plug and clean behind it. That gives you direct access to the idle jets, which are normally the smallest part of the carb.<br /><br />Here's a few sites that will help:<br /> Click here.<br /><br />maxrules.com/fixtuneitup.html<br /><br />The 3hp is a great little engine. On Tom Travis' page, go to the Owner's manual. He has the parts manual for a 3012, which is a little older but they hardly changed anything. Stick with the information Joe is giving you and you can't go wrong. I've got a later revision, the 4hp. It's fairly different than yours but if you want to see the guts of one of these things have a look here:<br /> http://www.shareaproject.com/pages/projectThumbs,p,182,00.html <br /><br />This site has parts manuals from '68 up. There is a '68 3hp there which is also hardly different from your '66:<br /> http://epc.brp.com/default.aspx?brands=ej&lang=e <br />Probably more similar than the 3012 ('52-54)<br /><br />If you've got a separate tank, you can try pumping the primer bulb and see if that doesn't make the engine run better. That rules out the fuel pump, tank, lines, leaks, etc, all the way up to the carb. If it's none of those, it's got to be the carb.
 
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