Ted Williams 4.5 hp (Sears Eska) carb leak

[emtoly]

this unit is smooth running, great starting. but leaking fuel.. dripping from the bowl, but I don't think that's where it's coming from. One question I have is as the bottom of the bowl is not flat, but has on side higher than the other, is there a chance that I have the bowl aligned wrong and that the float is going down to far??? If not, I was going to pursue needle seat, as it does not seem that the metal float has anything in it.... Any thoughts are welcome. Seems like parts are getting tough to locate, and suggestions for this would be welcome as well. Thanks and Keep your Tip up

[Tom @ Buzzard Bluff]

<One question I have is as the bottom of the bowl is not flat, but has on side higher than the other, is there a chance that I have the bowl aligned wrong and that the float is going down to far???>

The float should drop into the deeper end of the bowl. i.e.: the shallow side of the bowl should be beneath the float pivot area.

<If not, I was going to pursue needle seat, as it does not seem that the metal float has anything in it.... Any thoughts are welcome.>

While you have the carb off check to see it if has the little red rubber 'sock' (fuel pump diaphragm) recessed into the engine side of the carb flange. If so (I rather doubt it ) it must be intact! Check it for holes. Replace it with the top of the slit inclined @ 30-45 degrees off of vertical towards the carb throat.

<Seems like parts are getting tough to locate, and suggestions for this would be welcome as well.>

Certified Parts <http://www.certifiedpartscorp.com/> probably will have about anything you need, but their website is useless. You'll have to call them (be SURE you have model & serial numbers in hand before you call!) but the lady who handles that job is VERY helpful. She just can't help you without a model #.

If you have a good, older small engine shop in your area you should be able to get parts for the carb and maybe ignition there---IF---you never tell them that the carb (which you should have in hand when you arrive at the parts counter) is from an outboard motor. Once you admit it's from an outboard you'll be able to see the spark of intelligence in the parts mans eyes go out as he mutters "Sorry, I can't help you". It's best to say it's from an old mower or saw exhumed from Grandpas barn that you are trying to restore. Either make up a non-existent maker and model # or claim that it's so rusty that there are no remaining identification marks. They probably have Tecumseh carb parts & kits in their bins if they've been servicing small engines for a significant length of time.
That's where I get my carb parts for quite a few outboards. I was able to get a needle, seat and fiber gaskets for the bowl retaining nut there yesterday for a Tillotson model CO carb on a '76 Chrysler 6 horse without having to pay shipping from an internet purchase. I also discovered that the condenser I took in was a Wico part and that they have them should that prove to be why I can't get the upper cylinder cooking. And their price is @ a third of what the NAPA store in the same small town wants for the equivalent Sierra condenser.

Sometimes you have to be 'creative' when looking for parts!

[mrcrabs]

A float needle not seating well against the viton seat will allow an overflow which will come out the top of the carb @ its vent, its a atmospheric pressure thing which has to be there, also almost every time you take the bowel off you need to replace the bowel gasket or it will leak, the bowel needs to be turned so the indented spot in the bowel faces directly away from the float pin, also the needle valve clip must be pointing in the right direction or or you can get a sticking float needle. You can also miss install the bowel and even have it aligned correctly with the float and it will still be just tilted slightly causing a leak.

you sir need a Tecumseh manual...send me a PM and I will point you in the right directon.

check ebay for a carb kit for your Eska, I think there up to about 35$...Eskaman2008 was selling them for 27$ if you need one

[emtoly]

Here's the latest... changed out the needle and seat, made sure the position of the bowl and bowl gasket were correct. The unit started right up, as it did before, but now floods regularly while before it didn't flood out, it just leaked out the air inlet.... I did adjust the angle of the float outside the normal adjustment in an attempt to see if the needle provided was just a bit shorter or.... No improvement so I have readjusted to recommended operating position.

What I did next. I pulled the bowl with the motor in operating position. I opened the fuel valve to allow fuel to run to the carb. When fuel began to run out into the bowl area, I gently moved the exposed float upward until the needle came to rest against the seat stopping the flow of fuel into that area.. When I did so... Fuel began running out of the air inlet..... I am SO Confused.. could there be a crack in the carb housing that is letting fuel run wild??

As much fun as I'm having, and i am in a sick, confused, and diabolical way, I'm about to turn to some semi pro local... willing to take another run at it though, thanks in advance for any suggestions

[mrcrabs]

I have had the same problem before, First if you have the needle seat installed correctly and the clip that holds the needle in place orientated correctly (long end of the needle clip should point toward the choke) after you put the bowel back on you should be able to hear the float flop back and forth as you flip the carb up and down...you should be able to hold the carb upside down and using a small length of gas line do a Manual (blow a puff of air and hold it for a bit)POP-OFF TEST. if you have the dual gas fitting at the fuel inlet you will have to cover the other side with your finger.
if the float is sealing against the viton seat no air will be let in...if it fails the pop off test...start over, if you don't have the Tecumseh carb manual get it.
Pay close attention to the orientation of the float needle clip direction...it alone can screw up your setup, also be sure to use the correct float adjustment (11/64" drill bit) I use a cheap pair of plastic calipers and just took a measurement of the drill bit, other settings will not help,

FLOAT HEIGHT SETTINGS
Previously the float height was set by using a 670253A
float setting tool. The new float setting will require an
11/64" drill bit. The procedure for setting the float height
is as follows. Remove the bowl gasket, then hold the
carburetor in the inverted position. Place the drill bit
across the carburetor body opposite and parallel to
the float hinge pin. Adjust the float height by bending
the tab on the float until it touches the bit.

this is how the manual reads concerning the pop off test but I use the method I descibed above

NEEDLE AND SEAT POP-OFF TEST
To test the pop-off pressure, remove the carburetor
from the engine. Be sure to drain any fuel into an
approved container. Invert the carburetor and remove
the float bowl. Place a drop of an oil based product
such as WD-40 on the tip of the needle valve. Using
a commercially available 0-30 psi pump and gauge,
attach the pumps hose to the carburetor inlet. Apply
approximately 6 psi or until the needle pops off the
seat. The needle should seat at 1.5 psi or greater for
a minimum of 5 minutes. If the minimum 1.5 psi cannot
be maintained for this period of time, then service to
the needle and seat is required.

you can also screw up the viton seat when you install it so follow the instructions and if all else fails get a new seat and start over.
It really is easy, it just has to be done by the "book"

[mrcrabs]

Just wanted to clarify why the needle clip is so important to the setup

The float needle clip changes the position of the needle on the float tang, it will cause the needle to hang on the side of the fuel inlet tube.

Fuel began running out of the air inlet

Are you talking about the main bore of the carb or the atmospheric vent?

[emtoly]

Update.. After many hours of frustration, just knowing the float/needle/seat was the problem and adjusting for everything but wind velocity... I finally read some more threads.. Someone mentioned a red fuel pump/bladder. I pulled the carb off, found the pump bladder or what ever the heck it's called and sure enough it had a 1/8 x 1/16 hole just past the shoulder on one of the flat sides of the little soft rubber tubelike piece. I live in no-where montana, no parts to be had so... I used two thicknesses of the adhesive/flexible material off of a curad bandaid, cut to fit, and place over the hole, shoulder and one of the larger flat sides, creating two thicknessses of new skin. I then put two very thin layers of "seal all" which does not break down in gas. let 'er dry, and put the carb back together and inplace and amazingly enough it works!!! Anyone know where I can locate of these fuel pump like parts??? Thanks

[KentuckyCatfish]

Update.. After many hours of frustration, just knowing the float/needle/seat was the problem and adjusting for everything but wind velocity... I finally read some more threads.. Someone mentioned a red fuel pump/bladder. I pulled the carb off, found the pump bladder or what ever the heck it's called and sure enough it had a 1/8 x 1/16 hole just past the shoulder on one of the flat sides of the little soft rubber tubelike piece. I live in no-where montana, no parts to be had so... I used two thicknesses of the adhesive/flexible material off of a curad bandaid, cut to fit, and place over the hole, shoulder and one of the larger flat sides, creating two thicknessses of new skin. I then put two very thin layers of "seal all" which does not break down in gas. let 'er dry, and put the carb back together and inplace and amazingly enough it works!!! Anyone know where I can locate of these fuel pump like parts??? Thanks

Here is a link to get the "element!" Hope this helps!
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...blt=11&shdMod=