1989 Gamefisher with no spark to the bottom plug and wiring questionable+

[Outboard Mike]

I'm working on a 15hp Force/GameFisher model 225.581501 motor. The owner rewired it due to some mouse issues. It has an electronic ignition with no points. The coils both check out good with an ohmmeter. There is spark to the top plug wire only. The only diagram I have shows only one coil and the wires going to the kill switch wire. I believe the problem has to be due to the way the wires to the kill switch are hooked up to the connections on the magneto. Would also like to know how the nylon screw and washer are supposed to be used on the mag wires. I also have a Chrysler Force shop manual but it does not cover the 15hp model in the electrical schematics. Thanks for your help. I forgot to mention that it has a lanyard kill switch as well as a push button kill switch with inter connecting wires. The kill switches seem to be working based on testing with the ohmmeter. I have attached a picture of the current wiring. Can you tell me if this correct??
Thanks,
MikeDSCF0840.jpgDSCF0839.jpg

[mrcrabs]

So are you looking at the sears parts diagram? it looks staight forward to me,

Ah but then you have a the dreaded BIM coils....they may work or they may not...what phaze is the moon in...

http://www.cdielectronics.com/Portal...116-2379K2.pdf

[Outboard Mike]

Attachment 109132

There is no ignition coil tower on this motor and the wires from the coil/trigger/CD are currently routed to the stator plate. The two blue wires are connected together with a nylon screw and washer and the 2 brown wires are connected together with a metal screw and grounded to the plate. The 2 kill switch wires are then connected to these 2 screws and routed to the push button stop switch and the lanyard kill switch. This is the way I received the motor. Is this another method of wiring this model??

[mrcrabs]

Is this another method of wiring this model??

I really don't know...hopefully someone who does will come along or you could try asking at the force forum, just make sure you use Force/gamefisher in the title.

If it were mine I would start off by taking the kill wires out of the equation to begin with.

You know this forum is full of information and many have had trouble with the very same coils.
I will look and see if I can find more info from CDI regarding your models setup.

[mrcrabs]

There is no ignition coil tower on this motor

I think that picture in the PDF is a stock pic used for several models that have power pack designs, however I would say the wiring explanation is correct for your model.



and just digging up some more info that might help,


according to your year this is the replacment coil

116-2379K 3 BIM I Coil Replacement
(1 Cylinder engines)
Replaces: 712475 F12386 F712475

there is wiring and DVA information in this PDF for your model
http://www.cdielectronics.com/downloads/Force_DVA.pdf

[fishrdan]

The wiring connections look OK to me,,, from what I remember. Though, the way it's terminated is begging to leave you stranded. An outboard vibrates a LOT and all of those wires should have heatshrink on them to help support the wires, where they go into the crimps. Also, I'd seal them up with liquid electrical tape (before heatshrinking) to keep the connection sealed from moisture. Or use adhesive lined heat shrink.

For the no spark problem, I bet you it's a dead BIM coil. I had one of those die on my 7.5HP (same exact coil) and it had the same problem, no spark 1 plug wire. There's supposed to be a company that reproduces the BIM's, Standard Magneto or something like that. I went with the CDI kit, but it wasn't cheap, $150+. Oh yeah, ohming out the coil will not prove it's good, there are electronic parts in the coil... IE: no points.

For the nylon screw, it's supposed to have a nylon washer on the bottom, terminal ring stack, then the nylon screw holding all the terminal rings together. The nylon isolates those wires from ground.

[windy5849]

From the picture,it looks like the one blue wire is touching one of the little cast lugs.That would short it to ground if that is the insulated stack.

[fishrdan]

From the picture,it looks like the one blue wire is touching one of the little cast lugs.That would short it to ground if that is the insulated stack.

That would kill both coils

[Outboard Mike]

Finally got the motor running. I had to replace the coil for the lower cylinder as well as re glue the flywheel magnets which had slid over together. The coils are quite deceiving as they seem to check out OK even though they have an internal short that doesn't allow them to fire.
Thanks to all for the help to get her running!!!!

[narwhals]

congratulations on getting it up and running. you came to the right place for help and assistance. i will honestly say that electrical problems always have a way of getting under my skin, give me a carb or an engine to rebuild and i'm a happy camper. congratulations on your persistance and i've also learned from reading your thread.

[sledheadsx6]

where did u find a new coil for ur gamefisher , i ordered a replacement one for mine last wk cuz i lost spark on top cylinder i removed the old one it was all dryed up and cracked all over , the new coil i ordered they say is the replacement but it dont fit it has the armacture around the coil its part #300-850899t it will not fit let me know i really need to find the right one they wont let me return this one so i have to eat the $100 so iam not happy