I haven't been here for some time but I'm looking to open the topic of my sea king again if anyone is willing to give me some advice or information reguarding this antique.
I'm looking for a rebuild kit for the carb, it's a tillotson md54a the model and sereal #'s of the engine are 35gg9017a 452528
It is getting way too much gas and a previous owner had made some mistakes inside the carb, bending the high speed idle and stripping the slot on the top of the jet that fills the bowl.. I'll submit a picture of the damage tomorrow when I take the carb apart for ID.
The oil gas mix is very rich in oil and I was wondering if with newer oils I could reduce the mix? it mixes a pint of oil to a gallon of gas. 30 weight oil.
Needless to say, this thing is a smoker! but I love the engine and would reall like to get the most out of it!
Those Tillotson parts are getting hard to find. Try laingsoutboards.com or sea-way.com
The MD carb was used on a whole raft of different makes and models, with modifications to suit the particular need. On your 12hp, the hole through the float valve is huge to get enough gravity gas flow for that big an engine. Others use a relativly small hole to withstand fuel pump pressure. Just be aware to compare the hole.
The Gale service manual says to use 24:1 on all models. I don't say what to use, because if you blow your engine, you will blame me.
BTW, it is a 1953 (35GG--reverse the 35 and you get 53)
Thank you guys and I am not about blame.. the motor is a tool and any information you have for me would be appreciated and NEVER held against you.. I am my own and I make my own decisions.
So if you tell me to jump on it, I'm going to ask enough questions about how high and how many times just to make sure I'm getting it right.. and even then I plan on talking to everyone and reading what I can to make sure that things are what they are...and I'm not making mistakes with the information supplied to me.
I believe the oil can be cut back but how much? no idea.. I'll keep asking until general consensus is at a certain level.. then I'll make the move and post back to you.
Calling Liangs tonight! thanks again!
Actually, on that little guy, 24:1 is gospel. Really. It has plain bearings, or bushings, and just needs more oil than the later engines with needle bearings or rollers.
There's no point in using less oil, and a lot of danger to the engine. Once the engine is running right and warmed up, you'll be surprised how little smoke there is, especially when you're on the water.
There's nothing to be gained by cutting back on the oil. Nothing at all.
okay, I've made the mistake of mixing the oil at a pint of oil to a gallon of gas.. so I can cut that in half! wow! <---smokey
I've located the float valve needle and seat.. this was the item with the terrible damage from the previous owner.
I had to heat the bowl body to remove the seat.. very well stuck with years of shellac and whatever else might have kept it in there..( I was told it was a wax ring or something), but it's now out Liangs sent me to the site at sea-way and I called them, they have the needle, seat and high speed idle pin I need for a minimum cost!!
The ring I was told about might have been the nylon seat for the steel needle?
lots of carb cleaner on this and it's a shiny lil devil! (on the inside)
thanks guys I'll keep ya posted on how this turns out!
hey guys I've come across with another question...
lower unit grease.. what to use? this is a direct drive, no neutral or reverse lower unit.
I've never changed the oil/grease in a lower unit and I'm sure I can handle it, but I could use some advise.
Should I flush the old oil out of the gears? or just changing and replacing would be sufficient?
ok ok.. I took off the pull start assembly to see if I could get a peek at the flywheel and eventually the points and coils... on the top was a simple little plate with three screws.. it's an access panel! so I was able to see that the coils and points appear to be new or in new condition! point surface is shinny and clean.. no pits and absolutely no rust or corrosion to be seen.
Coils are prutex w243/12 and I was trying to do a search so I could order new ones to have on hand but I can't seem to find them.
this motor is incredible clean.. I was amazed once I started to remove the recoil and gas tank! immaculate to say the least! I think I have a keeper!
I was thinking of removing the water jacket covers to search for corrosion or blockages but figured I search opinions here first..
Also should I use a lead additive in this motor?
Lead is unecessary in a 2 stroke.I believe the coils are available here for Evinrude Johnson motors.In my old Gale book on all models the Coils are the same through your year old Gale number 580118.The only coil with a different number is the 22de Electric start and I think the only difference is the length of the leads. 18-5181 fits many motor 49 to 90 1.5 to 40 hp.
If it is a fresh water motor leave well enough alone on the jacket covers.
took the motor to the lake today for a test run with the new needle, seat and high speed needle...
this thing runs awesome!! a twenty four dollar fix with your help and I now have a motor that runs excellent! No smoke at all from this machine and the water from the exhaust is almost crystal clear, where as before the water in the test tank would be all oil and carbon.
Thank you guys again for the help! as soon as my boat project takes shape I'll post a pic of it on the boat and on the lake!! whoot whoot!! look out ducks!
When I was a teen ager we had an Elto very similar to your motor but in blue and silver.A little later My Grandfather had a Full gearshift GoodYear In a Gold and dark green.We ran ours on an old 38 Thompson my Grandfater ran his on a 58 LoneStar.These motors were pretty much trouble free as I recall.
the durafix was a bust.. and I've gone to conventional repairs.. but this whole experience has brought me to a new and exciting question!!
I has a small seep of oil from the water pump on the lower unit.. it is the type of water pump the is directly behind the prop.
Someone has used some sort of goo to stop the leak but it's old and warn.. I was wondering how you guys felt about using gluvit to seal the leak.. or would that make it impossible to repair in the future?
man.. it's tough dealing with someone else's mistake...
The water flush screw is damaged to a point where I cannot remove it.Any suggestions? The slot in the top is rounded over on the edges and I am worried about heating the lower unit with a torch to loosen it.
Also I'm trying to remove the prop in order to service the water pump and the motor is rotating when I turn the nut counter clock wise while I hold the prop.
The nut will tighten if I turn it clockwise while holding the prop.
Give the nut a good soaking with PB Blaster. They liked to sieze/rust on the shaft. Stick a block of wood in to hold the prop. If all else fails, you may have to heat it. The good side of the story is that you discovered it now instead of out on the lake with a busted shear pin.
The shaft rotates inside of the prop when I turn it counter clock wise but the nut tightens when I turn it clock wise.. is that a sign of a sheared pin?
I soaked the nut down with penetrating oil and the nut does spin clock wise but as I spin it counter.. it loosens slightly then the shaft moves inside the prop..
I hope I'm describing this clear enough.
As I loosen it slightly the prop seems to slip a bit more easily.
The water flush screw: can I just replace the grease at the end of the season.. will that remove any water that might be in the lower unit? I assume the water flush is to remove the water in case of freezing.
I'm a little bit confused on the nut. Yes, if the shaft rotates in the propeller the shear pin is broken. Or the rubber shock hub is shot. But you were running it on a boat with no problem (?) You also seem to indicate that the nut will move back and forth a bit on the shaft? I'm not going to ask if you have all the cotter pin pieces out. If it moves back and forth at all, it shoud come off. Hold the flywheel and turn the prop nut off.
Now, about the water flush plug. It is just that, a way to flush water through the cooling system after running in salt water. If you are in fresh water, forget you ever saw that plug.
There are two other plugs for servicing the gear grease. You should check for water in there now and don't wait till winter. Water is a lousy lube and will wreck the gears and bearings. Back when that motor was made people were accustomed to regreasing as often as every time they used it. Reckon we are spoiled nowadays?
Thanks for the reply, I'll have a better understanding of it in the morning and as I get further into it I'll take photos of any parts or situations I get into.
The motor did work fine on the water trial and pushed water extremely well.
Grease oozing from the water pump seal had me thinking that I might need to replace the seal. So in an attempt to remove the prop I've run a muck but, I believe that whats wrong here is that I'm not holding the flywheel while spinning the nut on the end of the prop. Thats the part I guess I didn't understand. As far as lubing the lower end, I drained what was in it out. There was very little lube in there (around two tablespoons) and it was black as black can be.
Lubriplate 105 from Napa is on the shopping list.
Ok I have removed the prop and you were correct that the shear pin is toast.
I wrapped a tow strap around the flywheel and around itself to give the leverage I needed to torque the prop nut off.
Worked like a charm!!
The water pump rubber is like new and the shock absorber rubber in the prop is in great shape.
There is "no" lube in the rubber water pump.. should there be a non petrol based lube in there? or wax? or anything at all?
Oh yeah.. the shear pin, is that a standard type item or special to the motor?
Well that's good news. Make sure the wobbler impeller is flexible with no cracks. No lube goes in the water pump. The impeller draws water in and pushes it up the tube to the powerhead as it wobbles eccentrically on the prop shaft...so it has to fit snugly to that shaft in order to wobble and draw/pump water. Make sure the intake and water passages out of the pump are clear. You can order OEM shear pins if you know the size/diameter, but you can also make your own by cutting brass rod from the box stores down to the desired length. Don't use a nail, etc., or anything that can rust in two...has to be a metal that will retain its strength until you hit something hard enough with the prop to shear it in two. Carry an extra or two onboard in your boat kit.