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  1. #1

    Cool Getting ripped off on my OMC 235, 351w 1974, D4AE Block, Hunk of Junk?

    Hey everyone! I'm Ben and I'm an alcoholic.


    Just kidding. Well maybe... ha anyways this is my first post. I bought my 1977 Formula Thunderbird F20-CL for $400 plus a small HDTV so I thought that wasn't too shabby to get into the boating/engine fixin'-up scene.

    Reason I'm posting is to see if my machine shop is screwing me over. I've never had an engine fully machined so I just wanna see what everyone thinks.

    Mikes Automotive Machine Shop in St. Louis, MO is quoting me exactly $1860.65 for:

    Completely machine block (bore, hone, decking), heads, valve job, sleeve valves,
    Install Freeze Plugs
    Install Cam Bearings
    Grind Crank
    New Engine Kit (Pistons, timing kit, valves, pushrods)
    Line Bore Main
    Straighten Rods/Machine them

    Basically everything except putting the damn thing together.


    They have good reviews on google and have been a staple in the community for a long while.

    What do you all think?

    Nice to meet you all, I'm here to stay and enjoy the pictures!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2

    Default Re: Getting ripped off on my OMC 235, 351w 1974, D4AE Block, Hunk of Junk?

    engine pics before disassembly
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  3. #3
    Vice Admiral tpenfield's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting ripped off on my OMC 235, 351w 1974, D4AE Block, Hunk of Junk?

    I don't think that you are getting ripped off . . . but. . . you can always shop around.

    Also, you may want to evaluate alternative to rebuilding, perhaps buying a long block.
    Best regards,
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  4. #4
    Senior Chief Petty Officer
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    Default Re: Getting ripped off on my OMC 235, 351w 1974, D4AE Block, Hunk of Junk?

    Welcome to iboats!

    That is actually a fair price. It is nothing to spend $2k on a long block rebuild. Hence the reason why it is often times more advantageous to simply buy a crate engine. Don't ask me how I know this to be true.

    Good luck!

    BTW, not to ruin your day...but have you priced new exhaust manifolds and risers yet? If not, here's a heads up...budget another $600-800 dollars.

  5. #5
    Chief Petty Officer Nivekt's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting ripped off on my OMC 235, 351w 1974, D4AE Block, Hunk of Junk?

    That price isnt too bad but In my area I can get a complete remanufactured marine long block for $1500 w/ core return. Shop around. My block is cracked so I will be replacing soon. Also, you must buy new manifolds and risers.

    The stock part numbers for the manifolds on your engine are the same as on my GM 350(909215 & 909216). This is the replacement manifold kit I bought and it fits perfectly: http://www.boatpartheadquarters.com/.../glm-58410.htm
    1979 Cobalt 18TH
    OMC 260 Engine(GM 5.7L V8)/OMC 800 Hydro-Mechanical Stringer Drive

    A picture is worth a thousand words. Having a problem? A picture will get you more responses.

  6. #6
    Rear Admiral Howard Sterndrive's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting ripped off on my OMC 235, 351w 1974, D4AE Block, Hunk of Junk?

    Quote Originally Posted by davidbrookstone View Post
    They have good reviews on google and have been a staple in the community for a long while.
    worth the price of admission right there, but what was the diagnosis on the motor? compression test? did you pressure test the cooling system to check for cracked block etc?

    you can always just look for a good running car/truck 351W too and swap the core plugs to brass, and swap in your marine cam, or even look for a running 5.8 in a junker boat.
    Baba-buoy.

  7. #7
    Commander
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    Default Re: Getting ripped off on my OMC 235, 351w 1974, D4AE Block, Hunk of Junk?

    Don't know if one still can but we use to buy new marine base engines from Ford for less than that. Even a reman engine from somewhere like Jasper Engines comes assembled with a warranty.
    In that list I don't see lifters, push rods, oil pump, gasket kit or seals. All that would come with a reman engine.

  8. #8
    Vice Admiral southkogs's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting ripped off on my OMC 235, 351w 1974, D4AE Block, Hunk of Junk?

    Quote Originally Posted by Howard Sterndrive View Post
    ...or even look for a running 5.8 in a junker boat.
    I'm with Howard. I'm not sure I would put that kinda' money into a Stringer drive again. I can probably get a lake ready boat in good shape for another $700 this time of year.
    ---------

    - 1972 Silverline Comoro 17T OMC 165 Stringer I/O ... yeah, I know.

  9. #9
    Moderator Bondo's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting ripped off on my OMC 235, 351w 1974, D4AE Block, Hunk of Junk?

    Quote Originally Posted by Nivekt View Post
    That price isnt too bad but In my area I can get a complete remanufactured marine long block for $1500 w/ core return. Shop around. My block is cracked so I will be replacing soon. Also, you must buy new manifolds and risers.

    The stock part numbers for the manifolds on your engine are the same as on my GM 350(909215 & 909216). This is the replacement manifold kit I bought and it fits perfectly: OMC Complete Exhaust Manifold Kit (V8 SB)
    Ayuh,... Since when, will a set of Chevy manifolds bolt onto a Ford head,..??
    Any Grease is Better,..... Than No Grease at All.......

  10. #10
    Chief Petty Officer Nivekt's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting ripped off on my OMC 235, 351w 1974, D4AE Block, Hunk of Junk?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bond-o View Post
    Ayuh,... Since when, will a set of Chevy manifolds bolt onto a Ford head,..??
    Double checked what I originally looked up and it looks like we use the same risers (part #909218) but our manifolds are different. My '79 uses the 909279 & 909280 manifolds and his '77 OMC 235 uses 909215 & 909216 manifolds. Im not seeing any aftermarket manifold kits for his setup that are log style, rear rise. All I see is center rise but for newer setups.

    Ill keep digging.

    *Edit* Man, I've scoured over all my usual sources and even Ebay and still dont see anything. Davidbrookstone, this may be a deal breaker for this whole setup if you arent able to source some new manifolds. I would not dare hook those old manifolds up to a new engine. Way too risky.
    1979 Cobalt 18TH
    OMC 260 Engine(GM 5.7L V8)/OMC 800 Hydro-Mechanical Stringer Drive

    A picture is worth a thousand words. Having a problem? A picture will get you more responses.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Getting ripped off on my OMC 235, 351w 1974, D4AE Block, Hunk of Junk?

    Quote Originally Posted by Howard Sterndrive View Post
    worth the price of admission right there, but what was the diagnosis on the motor? compression test? did you pressure test the cooling system to check for cracked block etc?

    you can always just look for a good running car/truck 351W too and swap the core plugs to brass, and swap in your marine cam, or even look for a running 5.8 in a junker boat.
    Machine shop says the block and heads are good to be machined, I would hope they pressure tested the cooling system , I''ll double check with them on Monday.

    If I find a good cheap running 351w does it matter what year it is? Also, isn't the crankshaft different? Or are truck and boat cranks the same?


    Thanks for your reply

    Ben

  12. #12

    Default Re: Getting ripped off on my OMC 235, 351w 1974, D4AE Block, Hunk of Junk?

    Quote Originally Posted by Nivekt View Post
    Double checked what I originally looked up and it looks like we use the same risers (part #909218) but our manifolds are different. My '79 uses the 909279 & 909280 manifolds and his '77 OMC 235 uses 909215 & 909216 manifolds. Im not seeing any aftermarket manifold kits for his setup that are log style, rear rise. All I see is center rise but for newer setups.
    .
    Could I just use these center rise manifolds and rig a flex pipe to the intermediate?

  13. #13

    Default Re: Getting ripped off on my OMC 235, 351w 1974, D4AE Block, Hunk of Junk?

    Thanks for everyones input... you guys have gotten me thinking about just purchasing a long block on the internet or buying locally.

    Which engine out of these would you guys pick? (I was liking the Police Interceptor version 89-91) that according to wikipedia has about 255hp.

    5.8L 351 CUI - FORD EngineGuy

    OR

    351 w Marine Engine Ford Motor Mercruiser 5 8L 030 No Core Charge 3 Days | eBay




    I also found a few truck 351w's on craigs that I'm thinking about (just swapping the cams):

    351w engine FS/FT
    351 W "roller" engine
    Ford F150 1984 351W 5.8L Engine


    I like the peace of mind of the re-manufactured long blocks, but if I can get a running one for 300-450 thats very tempting!


    What do you guys think?

  14. #14
    Chief Petty Officer Nivekt's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting ripped off on my OMC 235, 351w 1974, D4AE Block, Hunk of Junk?

    Quote Originally Posted by davidbrookstone View Post
    Thanks for everyones input... you guys have gotten me thinking about just purchasing a long block on the internet or buying locally.

    Which engine out of these would you guys pick? (I was liking the Police Interceptor version 89-91) that according to wikipedia has about 255hp.

    5.8L 351 CUI - FORD EngineGuy

    OR

    351 w Marine Engine Ford Motor Mercruiser 5 8L 030 No Core Charge 3 Days | eBay




    I also found a few truck 351w's on craigs that I'm thinking about (just swapping the cams):

    351w engine FS/FT
    351 W "roller" engine
    Ford F150 1984 351W 5.8L Engine


    I like the peace of mind of the re-manufactured long blocks, but if I can get a running one for 300-450 thats very tempting!


    What do you guys think?
    Man, I'm in the exact same 'boat' as you regarding used vs. remanufactured. There are lots of deals around my area for used motors that fit my application, minus swapping in my cam and new freeze plugs, but the great variable is how much you trust the seller.

    Now, I have no idea the differences between the various model years of 351w motors, but I do know that with Chevy blocks, only certain years could be used with the OMC Stringer setups because the exhaust housing bolt pattern. Make sure you define exactly what range blocks will work with your exhaust housing before you drop the coin.

    If you decide to go the used car/truck engine route, just be prepared that with your lack of knowledge(and mine) that you may end up completely having to rebuild an engine because you thought you were getting a great deal.
    1979 Cobalt 18TH
    OMC 260 Engine(GM 5.7L V8)/OMC 800 Hydro-Mechanical Stringer Drive

    A picture is worth a thousand words. Having a problem? A picture will get you more responses.

  15. #15
    Chief Petty Officer Nivekt's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting ripped off on my OMC 235, 351w 1974, D4AE Block, Hunk of Junk?

    Quote Originally Posted by davidbrookstone View Post
    Could I just use these center rise manifolds and rig a flex pipe to the intermediate?

    That is outside of my experience to guide you. Hopefully someone with direct experience will chime in. I can tell you that until you nail down this variable, I wouldnt make any other moves financially about an engine. It may be that your best bet is to switch everything over to a Chevy setup where parts are more readily available.
    1979 Cobalt 18TH
    OMC 260 Engine(GM 5.7L V8)/OMC 800 Hydro-Mechanical Stringer Drive

    A picture is worth a thousand words. Having a problem? A picture will get you more responses.

  16. #16
    Moderator Bondo's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting ripped off on my OMC 235, 351w 1974, D4AE Block, Hunk of Junk?

    Quote Originally Posted by davidbrookstone View Post

    I like the peace of mind of the re-manufactured long blocks, but if I can get a running one for 300-450 thats very tempting!


    What do you guys think?
    Ayuh,.... Considerin' you've also got an antique, unsupported Stringer drive,...

    I'd make sure It is in reasonably serviceable condition, Before ya buy Any motor...

    It'd be a shame to blow 2 Grand on a motor for a 2 dollar boat, 'n a beat dead drive, that can't be fixed, when the parts can't be found....
    Any Grease is Better,..... Than No Grease at All.......

  17. #17

    Default Re: Getting ripped off on my OMC 235, 351w 1974, D4AE Block, Hunk of Junk?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bond-o View Post
    Ayuh,.... Considerin' you've also got an antique, unsupported Stringer drive,...

    I'd make sure It is in reasonably serviceable condition, Before ya buy Any motor...

    It'd be a shame to blow 2 Grand on a motor for a 2 dollar boat, 'n a beat dead drive, that can't be fixed, when the parts can't be found....
    Good thinking. I'm gonna get it apart as soon as I can. Any good advice on what to look for? I have the SELOC, thats what I'll be using to rebuild it, hopefully that has ample instruction.

    Going the other route, how much am I looking at for a comparable, used engine/drive that I wouldn't have to modify my transom for?

  18. #18
    Moderator Bondo's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting ripped off on my OMC 235, 351w 1974, D4AE Block, Hunk of Junk?

    Quote Originally Posted by davidbrookstone View Post
    Good thinking. I'm gonna get it apart as soon as I can. Any good advice on what to look for? I have the SELOC, thats what I'll be using to rebuild it, hopefully that has ample instruction.

    Going the other route, how much am I looking at for a comparable, used engine/drive that I wouldn't have to modify my transom for?
    Ayuh,.... there's No such thing... The Stringer drive is a unique animal...
    Any Grease is Better,..... Than No Grease at All.......

  19. #19
    Vice Admiral southkogs's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting ripped off on my OMC 235, 351w 1974, D4AE Block, Hunk of Junk?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bond-o View Post
    Ayuh,.... there's No such thing... The Stringer drive is a unique animal...
    That might one of the more kind descriptions I've heard of the Stringer in a while ... To re-power the boat, you'll have to rebuild/reglass the transom.

    Ben, the Stringer is a great drive system and actually somewhat robust (all things considered). But it's basically a unique drive they quit making 30 years ago. It makes a bigger hole in the back of the boat than anything being produced since, and many/most marine shops won't service them. The comments you're getting in this thread are telling you if a Stringer is dead, and the boat isn't pristine (or an emotional attachment), find something else to work on.

    I accidentally bought my Stringer and had to do a lot of catching up to figure it out. Now that I've had it a few years, I actually really like it ... but I bought it in a boat that was nearly perfect (except being dirty), and I got it really cheap.

    Especially if the boat needs a bunch of work, the minute you're crossing the $1,000 mark you should probably consider a different boat. You can find a boat in good (reasonably) shape with a Mercruiser I/O for around $3,000 this time of year.

    I don't wanna' knock the drive system too much, but definitely watch your cost/benefit.
    ---------

    - 1972 Silverline Comoro 17T OMC 165 Stringer I/O ... yeah, I know.

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