I have looked through almost every post regarding Quicksilver 3000 console and panel mount throttle controls in the forums. I haven't found anyone that has successfully taken one apart and put it back together. I have a 1995 SeaRay 175BR with a Mercruiser 3.0 liter/Alpha 1 drive and a panel-mount Quicksilver Commander 3000 throttle control. The "up" portion of my power trim button fails to raise the drive but the "down" side and "Trailer" buttons work flawlessly. I used a test light and determined that the "up" wire (I don't recall the color) is not getting power after the switch.I have already spent over 6 hours trying to disassemble the control box to get the throttle arm off so I can get to the switch to inspect/repair it. No matter what, I cannot get that throttle arm off the body of the control.Has anyone out there been successful in doing this???? I'm desperate to find the secret to disasembling the throttle arm. Member 495V from Plainfield, IL mentioned in a previous post possibly having a scanned diagram of the control but I haven't found it.BTW - a local dealer said they'll fix it for a whopping $125 - $150! but my motto is, "If someone at a dealer can do it, why can't I?"HELP!!
hi this is how you take off the handle to get to the switch and wires.to remove the handle shift the control backwards to about 1/4 to 1/2 position this will enable you to popout the push button for nuetral. behind that button is a bolt remove it and the handle will come off.Barry
Barry, I did exactly as you stated and the neutral button refuses to pop out. I even tried prying it out with a flatblade screwdriver almost to the point where the plastic cracked and it still didn't come out. It's almost like the button is connected to the rest of the throttle assembly. How hard should it be to "pop" the button out? Do I need to use vice grips or a channel lock to squeeze it out?If I push the throttle arm forward about a quarter of the way there is a small set screw that appears through an opening at the bottom of the arm. I've loosened that and tried prying the button out and it still didn't budge.
sorry for not getting back to you yet told quicksilver about what you said that you still can not get it off and i am waiting for a replyin my my book thats all it says to do the book is on my boat if you want i will try to send the pages to you by email just give me your email address if you want
hi its Barry again i found out for sure how to take it off sorry for the wrong info last time i had wrong model push in on button thats nautral button and shift forward all the way now the button will come out pretty easy before i wrote this i went to my boat and tryed it and it came out there is a 11/16 in. brass hex bolt remove and handle will come off when you put it back on make sure to lube it well thats the inside and the hex bolt to torque to 150 lbs if you can find it use loctite 242 to lube and allso if you seen my other responce istill will EMAIL you the pages for your remote. Good luck Barry
UPDATE:Just wanted to let anyone and everyone know that I finally succeeded in removing the throttle arm, though it was a bit more difficult than I expected.I think the problem lies in the fact that you can't see exactly how the neutral button is attached to the rest of the assembly. There is no lip or flange surrounding the radius of the button but it does have about a three inch shaft extending from the inside center of the button. It's the end of this shaft that fits VERY snugly into the cable box holding it in place.Pull the throttle back (reverse) about 1/4 to 1/2 way. The key to getting the neutral button out is applying equal amounts of pulling pressure on opposite sides of the button. Two small flatblade screwdrivers across from each other should work fine. Once the button is out use an 18mm deepwell socket to remove the bolt holding the throttle arm on. Now the arm should come off rather easily.I expected to have to replace the entire trim switch assembly, a $42 part at www.mercurypartsexpress.com However, I diagnosed the problem as not being a faulty switch but a break inside the purple wire. Apparently there wasn't enough slack left in the wires and years of slamming into wide open throttle to pull up a skier took its toll. It stretched the wire to the point of breaking every copper strand but left the insulation in tact.When putting everything back together make sure to leave enough play in the wires to allow them to move freely around the base of the throttle arm.
New to site...hopefully someone can help me...the 'throttle only button' on my 3000 no longer pops back out...in other words it's stuck in the 'in' position...is it spring loaded...if not can someone explain how to repair it...also I've looked on other websites and some specify a model number...where is that number located?
Thanks in advance
PS Thanks to the original thread I have been able to remove the button but still can't figure out how to repair it
I also have a Searay 200 1995 and when using the trim switch of the throttle the trim only seems to go half way up and the trailer mounted switch is the only switch that will dring the sterndrive up fully, is the throttle trim switch meant to bring the drive up fully?
syca . . . this is an old, old, old thread, so you may want to start your own . . . But to answer your question it really sounds like yours is working correctly. The trim switch should only raise the drive to the top of the safe "trim" limit . . . That range is basically the highest you can safely run the drive up at full power . . . The trailer button is for raising it past that height for whatever reason you require. Most here say NEVER run the drive higher than the trim limit while underway. The same also say follow your manual. Go figure The Merc manual actually says that it is OK to run it higher than the "trim" limit for shallow water operation as long as you stay below 1200 RPM . . .