Need help putting antifreeze into block while circulating pump is dead!

[jmicara]

I'm starting a new thread to ask for help on putting antifreeze into my engine now that I figured out my circulating pump is not working. Long story short, I found out my circulating pump does not work when I tried to winterize my engine. So I believe the problem all along was the circulating pump died, the engine overheated, it probably cracked the manifold (which I found out was 4 years old) because there was a small amount of water in the oil (not as bad as I thought because the oil was pretty dark when I changed it twice) but enough to probably get into the chamber where it did not combust very well and it bent my push rod. I do not believe I checked the compression in each chamber and it was within range so I do not believe I blew a head gasket.

I will say that I appreciate everyone's advice and feel like there is nothing I can't do with the help and guidance of the fine folks here on this website!
With that said, I just want to get some antifreeze into my port side engine...the other is finished already...and work on the engine through the winter and spring timeframe.

I tried taking out the thermostat and pouring antifreeze into it while cranking the starter to have it flow through the block. Seemed like a ggod idea but the antifreeze leaks out the alpha outdrive....very little dribbles out the exhaust and its clear indicating its still water. Any better ideas ...compressed air, special pumps, etc. I live on Long Island, NY and want to get this done before we get into a rally deep freeze.

Thanks,

Joe

[ziggy]

i'd think you'd use the same proceedure to drain a cracked block as you would one that's good.
open all the drain points on block and manifolds, risers, wherever, remove whatever hoses are necessary on your rig. let them drain. you don't need the engine running. you don't need anti freeze. you do need to get the water out to preserve your cracked block.

with the drive full down, it should self drain. better hurry. the blizzard is in nebraska and heading your way...

[Bt Doctur]

If you didn`t drain the other motor first, kindly explain EXACTLY how you think you winterized it? Just seeing it come out the exaust does not mean it got into the block.You could have 2 gal of water still in the block ready to freeze. Per the post above, just remove the drain plugs ,probe with a object to make sure they drain, install plugs, remove the large hose from the therm housing and just pour it in untill it comes out the housing.reattach the hose, do the same for the manifolds.
Getting water in a cylinder does NOT bend a valve ,pushrod, or rocker arm, a stuck valve does that from rusting itself in the guide.

[Don S]

I'm starting a new thread to ask for help on putting antifreeze into my engine now that I figured out my circulating pump is not working. Long story short, I found out my circulating pump does not work when I tried to winterize my engine. So I believe the problem all along was the circulating pump died, the engine overheated, it probably cracked the manifold (which I found out was 4 years old) because there was a small amount of water in the oil (not as bad as I thought because the oil was pretty dark when I changed it twice) but enough to probably get into the chamber where it did not combust very well and it bent my push rod. I do not believe I checked the compression in each chamber and it was within range so I do not believe I blew a head gasket.

I will say that I appreciate everyone's advice and feel like there is nothing I can't do with the help and guidance of the fine folks here on this website!
With that said, I just want to get some antifreeze into my port side engine...the other is finished already...and work on the engine through the winter and spring timeframe.

I tried taking out the thermostat and pouring antifreeze into it while cranking the starter to have it flow through the block. Seemed like a ggod idea but the antifreeze leaks out the alpha outdrive....very little dribbles out the exhaust and its clear indicating its still water. Any better ideas ...compressed air, special pumps, etc. I live on Long Island, NY and want to get this done before we get into a rally deep freeze.

Thanks,

Joe

You seem to be doing a lot of assuming in your winterizing and troubleshooting, all of which sounds a bit off to me. As an example:

I tried taking out the thermostat and pouring antifreeze into it while cranking the starter to have it flow through the block.

Assuming (See, no you have me doing it) that you were pouring antifreeze into the intake manifold while cranking the engine, How could it possibly get out the exhaust (and the drive) when the exhaust is above the engine.

Here's the thing. In order to pour antifreeze into the intake manifold after you have the thermostat out, you HAVE to have the block and everything else drained. Turning the engine over does nothing, and my guess is there is nothing wrong with your circulation pump.
Don't do things the way you think they should be done, because it's not going to work, Like it or not.
Do it correctly, by the book, and an you may have an engine that works in the spring.
Have a read of some of the stuff in the stickies at the top of this forum.

[jmicara]

Interesting comments. Maybe I should explain a bit more.

I decided last winter, for financial reasons (lost job) to store the boat on the side of my house. I have twin Mercs 5.7 Thunderbolts with Alpha ones - 1989 Century 30 foot Mirimar. The engines were repowered in 2001. I have three additional posts related to my engine problem but started a new post when I was inquiring about the anti-freeze.

In order to winterize the boat I bought all the items from West Marine. Fuel additive for my two 75gal gas tanks, oil additive for the crank case, fogging oil and anti-freeze, 5 gals for each engine and the tank with the hose attached to the muffs to get the anti-freeze into the engine.

Once the engine was hoter than 160 degrees, I knew the thermostat would open up and antifreeze would get into the engine. When I used most of the 5gals and saw the pink colored anti-freeze coming out the exhaust, I sprayed the fogging oil into the carburetor until it choked and stalled. Done. Or at least I thought I was until I read about disconnecting hoses and draining everything. This is my third season with the boat and I felt the $2800 to store the boat and get it ready for spring was a bit excessive. I've changed starters, spart plugs, belts and most anything else I was able to fit if and when it had a problem. The local marina has helped me with compression gauges, thin-walled sockets to you name it. I thought he was just being real nice. Truth be told he finally told me he has been in the business for 50+ years and never saw a boat with as little engine room as mine. He was giving me all his advice and tools because would rather I fix it myself than me ask him! Unreal!

The work and repair is a love-hate relationship. I hate having to do it but love having done it....if that makes any sense. I've definitely made up some new words along the way because all the curse words I knew didn't seem appropriate when I couldn't get something to work. All in all, I enjoy what I'm doing but clearly look to this site for help and guidance.

Much appreciative,

Joe

[Don S]

Read this thread, especially reply #3
http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser-i-o-inboard-engines-outdrives/so-you-want-winterize-your-own-boat-358056.html
then read this one.
http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser-i-o-inboard-engines-outdrives/use-muffs-winterize-280921.html

[Bond-o]

and the tank with the hose attached to the muffs to get the anti-freeze into the engine.
Once the engine was hoter than 160 degrees, I knew the thermostat would open up and antifreeze would get into the engine.

Ayuh,..... Just what do you think happens when that Cold antifreeze hits the T-Stat,..??
It Closes....

That's the Whole reason those Kits, $uck....

If the Block is Drained before you start, It'll work, regardless of the T-Stat...
If the Block Isn't drained,... You've got a 50/ 50 chance of a Cracked Block come spring....

[jmicara]

All I can sayis WOW!

Here I though I was doing the right thing by seeking advice from West Marine and buying the kit to winterizing the boat and now it seems I need a new block. I guess I won't spend as much ime figuring out the valve and push rod issue! Unfortuantely, if the job situation doesn't improve soon, she may be sitting on blocks next season.

Thanks everyone for your help. It's been an expensive lesson.

Joe

[ENSIGN]

You better drain the damn blocks and manifolds NOW!!!!!!!!

[Bond-o]

Here I though I was doing the right thing by seeking advice from West Marine

Ayuh,... There's your Problem,....

99% of the West Marine folks I've run into are Sales Clerks,....
Not Boaters,+ Sure as 'ell Not Marine Techs.....

[Gary H NC]

Ayuh,... There's your Problem,....

99% of the West Marine folks I've run into are Sales Clerks,....
Not Boaters,+ Sure as 'ell Not Marine Techs.....

Really!! I bet 90% of them have never even been for a ride in a boat,much less know how to winterize one...

[Jeepster04]

If you were cranking the engine with no water going to the raw water pump then yeah, its probably bad now too.

[Don S]

You aren't going to destroy a raw water pump impeller while cranking an engine. Unless you crank it for an hour or two.