Mercruiser "chokes out" when shifting into forward

[Green Boater]

Hi All,
I just purchased an 84' Stingray with the 3.0L (GM?) Mercruiser and am experiencing an issue with the engine choking/stalling (most of the time) when shifting above an initial forward throttle. It seems to be a little better after the engine gets warmed-up, but that takes awhile. It starts up fine, even from cold, and even (usually) pulls away at low throttle pretty well. But, most of the time, when I go to ease it forward, it "chokes-out" and usually cuts off. It is worse when you try to go into reverse, even when it has been run for 30 or more minutes. I'm thinking a tune-up should be my first move as I just asked the guy I bought it from if it had been tuned-up and he said not for over a year, but his mechanic had pulled the plugs and cleaned them and had also cleaned the carb out. Appreciate any ideas or inputs! Thanks and happy boating!!!

[rickryder]

This may be your issue http://forums.iboats.com/showthread....49#post1930449

[Don S]

It starts up fine, even from cold, and even (usually) pulls away at low throttle pretty well. But, most of the time, when I go to ease it forward,

In the above statement, was this happening while shifting into forward, or were you already in forward and only adding throttle. Makes a huge difference in what the problem is.

Most of your information seems to point to a faulty lower shift cable, just not sure about this item.

[mercruiser470fan]

Try adjusting the intermediate shift cable. The kill switch should return to center postion after a shift. You can remove the drive and replace or recondtion the intermediate shift cable. Often the intermediate cable core is replaced by the pro marine techs. Either way you have to adjust the cable for best results with the kill switch. I have read many adjustment proceedures for the kill switch, but trial and error is a way if done in a safe area away from other boats and docks. In the water will give you best results testing in a safe area away from other boats or docks. The article the moderator is very good that the moderator advised be read and understood and there are many other articles how to adjust the kill switch for best results. I run in salt water so under the right condtions salt can build up and any drag on the intermediate cable results in poor kill switch performance. A pro tech years ago gave me the mercuriser part number to modify my drive to make the lower bushing on the shift rod not leak and allow salt to build up under the stern drive. In fresh water I don't know if any build up occurs to drag on the shift cable. The cable is less then $100 if adjustment does not help if you can read up how to replace or recondtion the cable yourself.

[Green Boater]

I appreciate it guys, and I think you might have hit the problem - the guy I bought the boat from had the shift cable replaced last year and only had the boat out once afterwards. He said it would kill the engine everytime he put it in reverse, but the forward wasn't too bad (at that time). He had his mechanic stop by his house a week or so before I bought it to make an adjustment on it, but I know for a fact he did this with the muffs on. I'm going to go ahead and do the tune-up on it this week and will be taking it back out to the lake this coming weekend - will try adjusting on the water with a driver at the wheel for safety.