Mercruiser 140 lifter ticking how to replace.

[black sheep]

I have a lifter ticking on a 1973 slickcraft ss-235 with twin mercruiser 140 4 cylinder engines. It is a stern drive. The engine block has a side plate that can be removed. I was told the lifter can be replaced when the side plate is removed. Anyone have instructions or done this before?

[Bond-o]

The engine block has a side plate that can be removed. I was told the lifter can be replaced when the side plate is removed.

Ayuh,.. After the valve cover, rocker arms, pushrods, etc. has been removed....
Then the lifters can be accessed from the side cover...

[MikDee]

You might want to try some Marvel mystery oil in that engine first, it is an upper cylinder lube, and will breakdown carbon buildup, or sludge. It has always worked well for me with something like this.

[ken_23434]

The Mercruiser Service Manual is availble for free download in the --Adult Only-- Sticky. It should guide you right through the whole process.

[Commissionpoint]

I just did one of these for a friend.

Bond-O is absolutely correct, as usual, you can get at them from push rod cover on the starter side of the block. You will also have to remove the distributor to remove this cover or you will kink it on the way out and it wont seal right ever again. Also replace the seals on the 4 bolts that attach the cover or you will most likely develop oil seeps from this location eventually.

After you get the rocker cover, rocker arms and push rods out of it you will be able to remove the lifters from their bores behind the afforementioned push rod cover. I have small hands and am usually able to remove them from their bores with my fingers, but a magnet will assist in this greatly if you cant manage to snag them out with your hands.

Consider replacing the push rods and rocker arms/balls when doing this job as well. They are fairly inexpensive, and you will have replaced all the moving parts between the cam lobes and the valve springs if you do this.

[IVAZ]

You might want to try some Marvel mystery oil in that engine first, it is an upper cylinder lube, and will breakdown carbon buildup, or sludge. It has always worked well for me with something like this.

I agree with this. My Bronco had a lifter start ticking at 173,000 miles. I used half a bottle of Sea Foam mixed with the oil. After five miles of driving it stopped ticking. I changed the oil after it quit ticking to get the Sea Foam out (it was the dirtiest oil that’s ever came out of that Bronco). 2000 miles later it’s still quiet. If you do use something to mix with the oil you should avoid extended WOT as I have heard it raises temps a bit.

[black sheep]

I ordered the gasket for the cover it includes the o-rings for the bolts. I also ordered the lifters.

I have a question on the lifters. I orderd the sierra part number 18-1402. I think it is the same as the mercury part number 72638. My question is this lifter an anti pump up? Is it the same lifter available at NAPA? Part number
HT817R High rpm performance?

I Think I will try the Marvel Mystery oil or seafoam before I replace it and see if it clears up.

[black sheep]

I added Marvel Mystery Oil and ran the engine for a couple hours and the sound is quieter. It did not fix the problem. I may try some rislone or just change the lifter.

[black sheep]

I changed all the lifters and I am still getting a ticking noise. Not sure what to try next or what it is now.

[mkast]

1973, valve train wear.

[Bond-o]

Ayuh,... Or possibly the fuel pump pushrod....

[Bt Doctur]

you claim to have changed them , how did you adjust them?

[black sheep]

I followed the mercruiser instructions from the manual found on this site.

[Bt Doctur]

i know what the manuals says, I want to know how you adjusted them.
You should have loosened one up till it starter clacking and then tightened untill no clacking plus 3/4 of a turn more.
If that is true then it might be the fuel pump or pump rod as bondo pointed out. could also be the start of a loose wrist pin

[black sheep]

I adjusted them like you said. What is the best way to check the fuel pump? Is there any visual indications of it being bad? I can remove the pump from the other motor and try in on the one that is making the noise. I appreciate your help.

[black sheep]

Where, what is the pump rod and wrist pin?

[black sheep]

The noise is not very noticable at idle when the rpms come up to around 2000 it starts to clack very noticable.

[Bt Doctur]

Sorry, fuel pump rod is for V6,V8 motors, you should have enough fuel in the carb for a quick run if you just remove the fuel pump and listen. you can also remove the suspected cylinders plug wire and see it it changes.
Can remove the suspected cylinder plug, rotate piston just past TDC ,insert a rod and try to move the piston downward.If it moves downward a bit, the rod bearing is worn or the wrist pin in the piston.

[Bt Doctur]

http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/13/13covr2.pdf
GM inline 4

[black sheep]

I will try that this weekend and post back with the results. Thanks again!

[black sheep]

Pulled the fuel pump and plug wires and no change in noise.