Just purchase 2nd hand Baylier 175 w/ mercruiser 3L

[kidafa]

Hi All,

Last week I purchased my second boat! Coming from a 13ft dinghy and a Seadoo Jetski I decided to get a 2006 175 Bayliner Bow rider with a 3.0L mercuiser stern drive alpha one leg.

This is what I plan do before I take it out can someone please confirm/let me know if I've missed anything and give me many advice.

Change/Replace:

• Spark Plugs and gapp .9mm
• Oil (25w-40 Marine 4cyl)
• Oil Filter
• Drive Oil
• Fuel/Water seperator

Lubricate:

• Steering Arm
• Prop Shaft
• Shif Cable and Linkages
• Throttle Cable
• Enigne Coupler/U-joint shaft Grease Nipple

Clean:

• Flame Arrestor
• Internal Fuel Screen Filter on Carby

Check:

• 6mm Alternator belt deflection
• Anodes
• Spray leg and engine with Inox/rust preventive
• Engine mounts to 52nm
• Bimbal ring clamp screws to 70nm
• Cooling lines and hose clamps
• Battery fluid and charge
• Trim Oil level

Today I pulled the plugs to see how its been running and they were very black and dry.... Just gave them a clean and re-gapped them all to .9mm and when I re-installed them I got two of the coils mixed up so it wouldn't start tried cranking it a few times and it just backfired ect..... Then swapped the two leads I wasnt 100% sure about and it started and purred away :-) Could have I caused any damage while doing this?

Also the propeller has 3 holes in it and one of them has been siliconed up.... See the photos. Why is this? Should I remove it or leave it? Why would someone do this? There is evidence of silicone in the other 2 holes but they are not blocked like one of them.


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[John_S]

Congrads on new boat. No, you didn't hurt anything have two wires crossed for a few minutes. As far as the silicone, looks like they tried to block the ventalation holes. I don't own that type prop, so don't know what the plugs look like. Someone else will chime in on that. Also, looks like the prop is not tight. The locking ring is off kilter with the nut.

[kidafa]

Off Kilter? ???

[Reming870]

The prop nut is not resting in the lockwasher properly so it has the potential to slip.

I have no idea why the hole is siliconed closed.

[kidafa]

Ok. Well Im yet to pull the prop to lube the shaft so Ill check it out then :-)

Can I just use marine grease for that? Any special tools required? Can I re-use the lockwasher?

Also how can I tell what carb it has on it? If its an emissions carb or not ect?

[ziggy]

i just use waterproof grease on my prop shaft. i've never had any problems removing my prop after one seasons use. no special tools required, yes, reuse the lock washer/lock tab.
don't know about the carb. go look at the adults only sticky thread at the top of the i/o fourm. then look at the mercures info section. you'll find a link to some s/m's there. chose your rig and you'll have what ya need to service you rig. while your there check out the winterization and summerization thread. if ya go through those threads, you'll see many preventative maint. items to check. looks like ya have a good handle on what to do, but there may be further info that ya might be able use.

[stonyloam]

Retorque the gimbal ring clamping screws to 55 ft lb. Two bolts that clamp the gimbal ring to the upper swivel shaft on the outdrive. #21 here: http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...STEERING+LEVER should be part of annual maintenance, and I'll bet it has never been done.

[tejastoolman]

nice boat no wood floors! =)

[John_S]

Off Kilter? ???

Yes, a highly technical term for "not right". Reming870 said it better.

[John_S]

Also how can I tell what carb it has on it? If its an emissions carb or not ect?

Not sure what you mean by emissions carb. Given the year, you might have a Turn Key Start (TKS) carb, which is a Merc's answer to not pumping the throttle for cold starts. There hasn't been a high speed mixture adjustment for many years, and even idle mixture may be blocked "plug over" on that carb.

[kidafa]

Retorque the gimbal ring clamping screws to 55 ft lb. Two bolts that clamp the gimbal ring to the upper swivel shaft on the outdrive. #21 here: http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...STEERING+LEVER should be part of annual maintenance, and I'll bet it has never been done.

Thanks mate thats the exact sort of answers/responses Im looking for :-)

i just use waterproof grease on my prop shaft. i've never had any problems removing my prop after one seasons use. no special tools required, yes, reuse the lock washer/lock tab.

Cheers mate :-)

Not sure what you mean by emissions carb. Given the year, you might have a Turn Key Start (TKS) carb, which is a Merc's answer to not pumping the throttle for cold starts. There hasn't been a high speed mixture adjustment for many years, and even idle mixture may be blocked "plug over" on that carb.

Yeah it is a Turn Key Start Model.... Does this mean that theirs no Carby adjustments apart from the Idle speed screw? Thats all I can find on it anyway...

[John_S]

"Yeah it is a Turn Key Start Model.... Does this mean that theirs no Carby adjustments apart from the Idle speed screw? Thats all I can find on it anyway... "

I believe so, but didn't have the tks service manual at my fingertips on my HD, to confirm.

[fastempo]

Better check the outdrive waterpump impeller

[kidafa]

Better check the outdrive waterpump impeller

How do I do this? :-)

[fastempo]

Drain the out-drive gear oil, and then un-bolt the lower portion from upper, i.e. separate the the two portions of the out-drive, (5 bolts,
plus one hidden under trim tab- 5/16" allen type), make sure throttle is in forward position, with prop. to stop clockwise. Impeller pump
body is at top of lower unit. Remove housing, (4screws/bolts). Inspect impeller, should be plyable, but firm. When reassembling, make
sure shift lever and shift shoe are aligned, and pointing forward when in forward gear. Shift lever at top of lower portion and shoe in
bottom of upper portion, and they are mated when you re-assemble the two out-drive halves. Good luck!

[stonyloam]

Inspect impeller, should be plyable, but firm.

Then say yeah that was not too bad, and throw it in the trash and put in a new one.

[kidafa]

Ok thanks for the advice fastempo, So I put the lever into well into forward gear before I start any disassembly? I've done a fair bit of on-line reading and watched a few youtube diy's on changing the impeller and it seems pretty straight forward.

Went to my local mercruiser dealer today and picked up all the bits I needed to do the work I stated and the technician sold me the impeller one gasket and a small seal, he said that's all I will need as long as the boat isn't thrashed ect....

Can someone please fill me in on where the small Orange seal goes in the picture that I have attached. It has a small indentation on either end of it :-)

Cheers,

Chris

[paultjohnson]

Ditto on just replaceing the impeller, its a maintenance item, and they are cheap. If your gonna go to all the troublre of disassemble, you should just replace it. An impeller can look fine but be stiffer then it should be...again, just replace it. I would do bit a little differently then Fasttempo suggest. What he said would work, But if I were you I would pull the whole drive of in one piece, upper and lower together. That way you can inspect and lube the engine coupler splines, u joints, look for water intrusion or gear oil intrusion into the u joint bellows and shift linkage areas, lube that as well. I think its alot easier to reassemble the drive when its off the boat . Have someone help you or make a little makeshift stand to hold the lower half. Then lower the upper half back on to the lower to reassemble. Its easier then trying to lift the lower into place, when the upper half is still in the boat. Read up on steps for doing it. Don't forget the quad ring, its that little ring in your kit there. You will need a new bell-housing gasket, cost about $7.00 at the minimum..... Yes put shifter in full fwd position. That puts the shift shaft on the drive straight fwd so it comes apart properly , Get down and look at the little brass foot that comes out of the lower front of the drive, you will see what I mean.

[kidafa]

Yes I purchased a new impeller today :-) Where does the little ring go?

Ill do it with the upper half on the boat im thinking.

Looks like when I install the impeller I have to make the fins all go one direction which way do I make them go or does it not matter?

[paultjohnson]

Yes I purchased a new impeller today :-) Where does the little ring go?

Ill do it with the upper half on the boat im thinking.

Looks like when I install the impeller I have to make the fins all go one direction which way do I make them go or does it not matter?

Ok...the little ring [quad ring]goes between the upper and lower. There is a little hole on the starboard side , a little bit forward of center, Its where the gear oil travels from between the halves.
I believe when ya put the new impallar in. you will be twisting it in a clockwise , downward motion, lube it with soapy water if ya want.. Just pay attention to the way the old one is installed.. Another step that is highly recommended, is to pressure check your drive... especially after you tear it apart,are you familiar with this ?

[kidafa]

Can you run through pressure checking it?

Ive got a bike pump with a gauge and will be able to make something up with that at the filler pump ect to check it....

[Fishermark]

Can you run through pressure checking it?

Check the sticky at the top of the page on "Must Have info ..." (Or click here). Be sure to look at items #8 and #9. One is on pressure testing the drive, and the other is on checking the alignment. You will need to invest in an alignment tool. Your local dealer should have one (expensive) - or check ebay. They are on there all the time for very little money. Good investment, as you can check your alignment whenever you pull the drive.

[paultjohnson]

Check the sticky at the top of the page on "Must Have info ..." (Or click here). Be sure to look at items #8 and #9. One is on pressure testing the drive, and the other is on checking the alignment. You will need to invest in an alignment tool. Your local dealer should have one (expensive) - or check ebay. They are on there all the time for very little money. Good investment, as you can check your alignment whenever you pull the drive.

Great lead ! Also scroll down a bit further to item 16..home made special tools, for ideas. You can also google ...how to pressure check an outdrive for more info then you will ever need.

[dollarten]

Hi All,

Last week I purchased my second boat! Coming from a 13ft dinghy and a Seadoo Jetski I decided to get a 2006 175 Bayliner Bow rider with a 3.0L mercuiser stern drive alpha one leg.

This is what I plan do before I take it out can someone please confirm/let me know if I've missed anything and give me many advice.

Change/Replace:

• Spark Plugs and gapp .9mm
• Oil (25w-40 Marine 4cyl)
• Oil Filter
• Drive Oil
• Fuel/Water seperator

Lubricate:

• Steering Arm
• Prop Shaft
• Shif Cable and Linkages
• Throttle Cable
• Enigne Coupler/U-joint shaft Grease Nipple

Clean:

• Flame Arrestor
• Internal Fuel Screen Filter on Carby

Check:

• 6mm Alternator belt deflection
• Anodes
• Spray leg and engine with Inox/rust preventive
• Engine mounts to 52nm
• Bimbal ring clamp screws to 70nm
• Cooling lines and hose clamps
• Battery fluid and charge
• Trim Oil level

Today I pulled the plugs to see how its been running and they were very black and dry.... Just gave them a clean and re-gapped them all to .9mm and when I re-installed them I got two of the coils mixed up so it wouldn't start tried cranking it a few times and it just backfired ect..... Then swapped the two leads I wasnt 100% sure about and it started and purred away :-) Could have I caused any damage while doing this?

Also the propeller has 3 holes in it and one of them has been siliconed up.... See the photos. Why is this? Should I remove it or leave it? Why would someone do this? There is evidence of silicone in the other 2 holes but they are not blocked like one of them.


IMG_1453.jpgIMG_1454.jpgIMG_1455.jpgIMG_1456.jpgIMG_1457.jpg

Those holes in the prop were exhaust ventilation holes but , not in an ordinary form These holes will allow exhaust gases to pass through them when the boat is trying to get on plane . What they do is make prop cavitation by inducing an air bubble stream across the prop so the engine will rev up a little quick and reach the torque band quicker in order to get the boat out of the water . When the boat is on plane the exhaust the travels through the exhaust hub in a normal fashion and no exhaust then leaks out of the holes in the prop This idea was invented in the 70's by Mercury Marine with a service bulletin instructing a 5/16" hole in the proper area in order to get boats that are i little underpowered on plane a little quicker

[kidafa]

I dont want to have to remove the entire drive to do the waterpump, I want to split it in half on the vesell. Can I pressure test the out drive with it installed on the vessell?