I've read many posts over the years about people not being able to crank their engine over for compression tests, or bump the engine over to set the timing, or check for spark, or............................. Well, the list goes on.
There are a few ways to cure the problem.
First get a helper. Usually that's not always possible or safe.
Second, If you have a carbed engine with a standard old round tall coil with the exposed + and - terminals on the top you can use a jumper wire as an ignition switch and a remote start switch (pictured below) to crank it over
Third, you can make a crank and run switch setup to hook up to that round 10 pin connector found on almost all marine engines.
Let's start with the second option.
The remote start switch is nothing more than a momentary on push button switch with a wire to each terminal and a clip on the end of each wire. You can make one, or buy one, your choice. Either will work fine.
You can hook it directly to the starter, or on the start solenoid as shown in the following pictures. This will allow you to crank the engine over, but not start it. NOTE: If you have a points type ignition system, the engine will start/run as long as you have the starter engaged. This is because of the hot start wire hooked to terminal D supplying power to the coil while cranking. This is normal. IF you don't want the engine to start, just pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and ground it on the block.
In this picture you would hook one wire to A the other to B
In this picture you would hook one wire on A and one on B or A and C whichever you want
If you want to start your engine, just make a jumper wire with an alligator clip on each end. Hook one end to the pos. terminal of the battery (or any other place you have power with the switch off) the other end will go to the Positive (+) side of the coil. Now you have power to the ignition. To stop the engine, just disconnect your jumper wire from the coil and the engine dies.
The third method, although more expensive and complex to put together, is also the easiest method to use.
You need to find a Merc, OMC, or Volvo dealer and ask if they have any old pig tails of the engine wiring harness. That round 10pin connector with the pins in it (male end).
I still have several laying around the shop that I cut off of old wiring harnesses when repowering with new wiring to the helm.
You will only need 4 of the terminals in the plug for this method.
None of the wiring needs to be over 16 gauge wire as there is little amperage needed for anything this switch is used for.
It can be plugged into any type engine. Volvo, OMC, Mercruiser that uses the 10 pin round plug. I have found a couple of the pigtails that have pin too many for the older engines, it's one of the inside pins and not used in this application. Just pull it out or cut it off. Won't hurt a thing.
I have also found that cutting that waterproof skirt off around the pins makes it a lot easier to use.
Here is the basic wiring diagram. I use a lighted switch just so I know if the ignition is on or off. Wal Mart has rocker and toggle switches for about 4 bucks each.
To use this one is as easy as can be.
Plug it in. Push the button and the starter cranks. If you want it to start turn the toggle on so it lights up and you have ignition. To shut it off, turn off the toggle switch.
One hint, find some bright colored tape or split tubing wire loom material to cover your wires. You would be surprised at how hard black is to see on a black engine.
One other thing........ Stay out of the pulleys and belts!
Last edited by Don S; April 13th, 2009 at 06:01 PM.
Reason: repair broken image links
Please, no PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems.
That is what the forums are for.
Only forum/moderator issues will be answered in PM's.