Engine Rust - Now What?

[Doolin]

So, here's a shot of the motor:



As you can see... lots of 'spots' of rust.

I've been searching and reading a lot about rust but most talk about parts that are 'off'. Like, 'remove the part and soak in...' type of things. Soaking in molasses, electrolysis, etc.

I haven't seen any good suggestions for removing rust from parts that aren't going to come off for several years... and just as important... if I can get rid of the rust... what can I seal with that won't look bad.

Also, there isn't a good angle of it in this shot... but the exhaust manifold nuts look like hell too. I can get those off to clean (I hope anyway) but... any suggestions for a sealing coat that is heat resistant as well?

Thanks in advance for suggestions.

[fat fanny]

I would suggest after cleaning up the rust just hit it with fogging spray seems to work on my 3.0 and it stays shinny all season

[Bubba1235]

Navel Jelly!

[Bond-o]

Navel Jelly!

Ayuh,... With wire brushes, scrapers,+ then Paint everything,...

Rustoleum is My choice...

[Don S]

Ayuh,... With wire brushes, scrapers,+ then Paint everything,...

Rustoleum is My choice...

You can probably get paint to match, then after painting, use your favorit corrosion guard. I personally like the Volvo stuff. it's the samething as the T9 Bioshield (I thiink that's what it's called) it goes on and looks like ell, then when it dries, it's a clear waxy shiny, non sticky, rust protecting coating. A new coat a few times a year and the engine will remain looking new.

[haulnazz15]

Naval jelly will get the rust off. You can then paint it to match to prevent further rust.

[Doolin]

Navel Jelly!

When I first read the post containing 'Navel Jelly', I thought is was a joke about some unimaginable goo... that collected in belly buttons

I'll check that out and give it a try as well as the Volvo Corrosion preventative.

I appreciate the advice... I'll post a shot when I've got it cleaned up.

[dan t.]

Por 15 paint,just brush off the loose rust, make sure all oil or grease is off and paint ,this stuff is indistructable

[triumphrick]

I agree with DonS..T9 Boeshield is the best, followed closely by Corrosion X Heavy Duty. It' not as pretty, but I use it on my outboards on the tilt/trim motors and steering tube. it lasts for months....

[Bubba1235]

Why Navel Jelly?

If you want to take all the rusted parts off for cleaning (rust removal) then there is no need of Navel Jelly. Once everything is apart you can use a wire brush, sanding, grinding etc. to remove the rust and get to bare metal, prime the parts and then repaint them. But the key is, you MUST get rid of the rust before repainting or it won't last at all.

Navel Jelly has the advantage of not having to tear everything apart. Apply it, let stand as directed, wipe it off, and paint it. Navel Jelly works at the molecular level and chemicaly alters the rust and changes it from Iron Oxide to Iron Phosphate (sealing the metal) and it will never rust again.

For "spot jobs" like your photos show it should be just the ticket.

[rbh]

Since I did not have enough time last year to strip all the parts off the intake manifold last year, I just hit up the rusted spots with a shot of penatraiting oil, let it sit and wiped off the excess, "just a short term fix" to keep the flaking rust chips down.

[Doolin]

I looked up that Por 15... wow. It looks like paint but that's about where the similarities end.

I got a can of Navel Jelly from Home Depot and found a good deal on a pint of Por 15 on eBay.

I looked up that Volvo anti corrosive... it's expensive to start with and they want almost as much to ship it. Boesheild wasn't much better for price. I found a marine anti-corrosive spray locally and picked that up.

So the plan is:

1) Wire brush off what I can get to
2) Apply Navel Jelly to the rusted areas
3) Rinse off and dry completely
4) Apply Por 15 to the parts impacted by rust
5) Allow time for Por 15 to cure (water cured)
6) Top coat with Anti-Corrosive spray.

This will probably take a week or two for me to get to and complete... but I'll post a couple photos when I'm done.

Thanks again for all the advice. This was an area that really had me concerned. I plan on using this boat in the salt and rust looked to be a problem I might not be able to solve.

[cr2k]

Just put an engine cover on it.

[Doolin]

It has an engine cover. I wouldn't leave the rust anyway.

[andycoops]

hi mate tried lanolin spray I have used this on outboard and inboard and found it to be great
I know that lanolin grease on the Noosa North Shore Car Ferries QLD on the cable wheels cable

[Fishermark]

So the plan is:

1) Wire brush off what I can get to
2) Apply Navel Jelly to the rusted areas
3) Rinse off and dry completely
4) Apply Por 15 to the parts impacted by rust
5) Allow time for Por 15 to cure (water cured)
6) Top coat with Anti-Corrosive spray.

Just a note on the Por 15 - everything I have read about it is great. BUT - I have also read that if you do not follow the prepping instruction EXACTLY as suggested by Por 15, then it doesn't work at all. It also seems to be a bit of overkill.

Rust is going to be a fact of life on a boat. Personally I would do as you suggest above, but substitute a rattle can of Rustoleum for the Por 15. Just keep an eye on things and hit it with some more paint every now and then. Just my 2 cents!

[Doolin]

hi mate tried lanolin spray I have used this on outboard and inboard and found it to be great
I know that lanolin grease on the Noosa North Shore Car Ferries QLD on the cable wheels cable

I'd heard the word 'lanolin' before but I didn't have a clue what it was for. For anyone else that doesn't know... it's a natural waxy substance that's been used as a marine anti-corrosive for thousands of years. Here's a good link that gives a lot of info on the product:

http://www.merrittsupply.com/INOX-LA...300-P7305.aspx

Just a note on the Por 15 - everything I have read about it is great. BUT - I have also read that if you do not follow the prepping instruction EXACTLY as suggested by Por 15, then it doesn't work at all. It also seems to be a bit of overkill.

Rust is going to be a fact of life on a boat. Personally I would do as you suggest above, but substitute a rattle can of Rustoleum for the Por 15. Just keep an eye on things and hit it with some more paint every now and then. Just my 2 cents!

I read about their prep requirements. They sell a phosporic acid product as a pre paint prep and like all painting, the surface must be clean.

My guess is that they emphasize the prep to sell more of their prep spray.

I'll be using the phosphoric acid prep in the form of the Navel Jelly and typically scuff, wash then degrease with alcohol prior to any painting so I don't anticipate any problems with the Por 15. Overkill? Maybe... but I like overkill :-).